Sport-craft restore

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

It's going to be nice to be on the lake again, provided that it rains at the current rate my local lake maybe a large mud puddle. I won't have any warm and fuzzy feeling until I get it out on the lake and finish test runs. My work ain't pretty but she's going to be rebuilt like a tank. Can't do a whole lot in the looks department on a boat that is 43 years old.
 

tallcanadian

Captain
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
3,250
Re: Sport-craft restore

It can look right pretty. Here's a couple of pics of my first build, before and after. It's amazing what a little paint can do.

Before
100_2912.jpg


After
100_4227.jpg


And after again, different paint, trailer redone, motor repainted
100_3294-1_zps7becb7af.jpg
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Impressive. That maybe next winters project, got to get mine sea worthy first before I worry about looks.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Ok my transom is in!!!!!! IT'S A SUPER TRANSOM, it is too thick; it is almost 2in thick. No flexing or any movement what so ever even when by big butt bounces on it and I'm weigh almost has much as my outboard. Sure is nice to climb in and out of my boat through the transom.
Now for the fun stuff and iboat engineers. I have gotten the first layer of tabbing done. How much do I need to do? And how much glass to I need to put on my transom?
DSCI0184 (Small).JPG

Now my biggest problem. I dry fitted my cap that I had cut off which is how I discovered my transom is way thicker than what I took out. My thought is cut the splashwell back which is where the problem is. Then use wax paper and tape to the remaining part of the splashwell; then place the cap back onto the boat. Check for flushness then start fiberglassing. The part of the splashwell that butts up to the transom is not form fitting as it is now so doing this if it works would solve some problems. This part of the splashwell is deformed and damaged despite me trying to fix it; this is where I practiced working with fiberglass for the first time.

Presentation1.jpg

Hopefully the iboat engineers and experts can give me some ideas.
 

electric603

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 4, 2012
Messages
168
Re: Sport-craft restore

Nice work Bill. Not sure what to do about the transom. Is the 2 inches the total thickness including outer and inner skin or just the wood itself? I'm still in the grinding stage on mine. Hope to be where you are by spring if the weather lets me. I am working outside, the temp was in the teens when I was grinding the other weekend.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Yes it's measure from the outside skin, electric. And I complain about working in my storage unit when it's cold. I'm thinking grinding never gets done until the boat gets back into the water.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Sport-craft restore

Two ways. Cut the top portion of the transom back so the cap will fit, or cut the cap and reglass to fit the new thick transom. Your choice. The first link in my signature below has details on glassin your transom in.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Thanks WOG. I don't think I will be cutting on my transom, cutting the cap is what I thought. Your clamps and cutting holes in the transom worked great.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Well I finally got the transom finished. I started by filling the gaps with hairy PB, then I tabbed it in with 1708, 1708 across the transom, then tabbed again. This time I turned the 1708 90 degrees from the previous tabs on the sides. Took a little more time but I don't think my transom is going anywhere. Finally 1708 across the transom. The light glare makes it look like I got a lot of air bubbles but I don't.
DSCI0190 (Small).JPGDSCI0189 (Small).JPG

Now onto building the bilge area.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

One other thing. I saved a piece of the old transom for shaping purposes that I didn't used. While admiring my progess and looking at the old piece I noticed that it looked like gelcoat/paint on top wood. I looked closely and could hardly fine any resin or glass for that matter. I got just over 4 gallons on the transom. I already know they used very little on the stringers, just out of curosity I poured some excess on a bad piece of glass on one of my stringers just to see what it would do. I forgot about doing that and when I looked the old glass had soaked it up like new glass. Can't believe a boat so compromised lasted as long, surprised my motor isn't at the bottom of the lake.
 

electric603

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 4, 2012
Messages
168
Re: Sport-craft restore

My transom did not have an inside skin of fiberglass on it either it only had paint. I can't believe it lasted so long like that. It just proves if the transom and stringers lasted 30+ years like that they will probably last forever when done properly.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

My transom did not have an inside skin of fiberglass on it either it only had paint. I can't believe it lasted so long like that. It just proves if the transom and stringers lasted 30+ years like that they will probably last forever when done properly.

Thanks for that info, thought maybe I was seeing things. Wish I paid more attention when I was taking it apart, now my transom is thicker than it was originally but my boat man says he can still put my engine back on with it thick. Now just have to cut and reshape my splashwell.

How is your restore going?
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

My transom did not have an inside skin of fiberglass on it either it only had paint. I can't believe it lasted so long like that. It just proves if the transom and stringers lasted 30+ years like that they will probably last forever when done properly.

Based on my experience you might want to pay attention to your transom thinkness when you get to it or you will be cutting and reshaping your splashwell like me and I don't think it will be fun. I used tw 3/4in sheets and wishing I used one 3/4in and one 1/2in sheet. And I thought I was doing good that I got my transom done with one sheet of plywood.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Sport-craft restore

Bill, If you own a router you could rout the top edge of the transom so the cap will fit. Should be fairly easy to do.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Bill, If you own a router you could rout the top edge of the transom so the cap will fit. Should be fairly easy to do.

Nope don't own a router, yet. Never thought of that, something to consider; definately easier than rebuilding a splashwell. Thanks for the idea. It's funny:laugh: I got a new transom with like hundred holes in it and now I might be cutting into it :facepalm:and it's still better than what they put into the boat originally:D
 

electric603

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 4, 2012
Messages
168
Re: Sport-craft restore

Based on my experience you might want to pay attention to your transom thinkness when you get to it or you will be cutting and reshaping your splashwell like me and I don't think it will be fun. I used tw 3/4in sheets and wishing I used one 3/4in and one 1/2in sheet. And I thought I was doing good that I got my transom done with one sheet of plywood.
Thanks for that tip. I did not measure my old transom but it was two 3/4 with fiberglass in beween the plywood. If I use PL to glue the two peices of 3/4 together and glass the transom in maybe it won't change the thickness too much. I am essentially moving the fiberglass from in between and putting it on the inside. Sounds good in theory anyway.
How is your restore going?

Very slow. I am about 1/3 done with grinding. Between the weather and family it's hard to get time to work on it. Maybe get a couple of hours in on it this week.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Thanks for that tip. I did not measure my old transom but it was two 3/4 with fiberglass in beween the plywood. If I use PL to glue the two peices of 3/4 together and glass the transom in maybe it won't change the thickness too much. I am essentially moving the fiberglass from in between and putting it on the inside. Sounds good in theory anyway.


Very slow. I am about 1/3 done with grinding. Between the weather and family it's hard to get time to work on it. Maybe get a couple of hours in on it this week.

I used titebond III? recommended by WOG worked great. Weather has been killing me to it has to get up to 47 degrees outside before I can do any glassing then it takes hours for it to cure which actually works for me since I'm new at this. Supposed to get around 10in of snow Wednesday and Thursday. WOG did come up with a good idea on how to thin my transom down though. Use a router.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Sport-craft restore

Keep checking CL. 20 buck routers are on there all the time. If you're not a woodworker and won't use one a lot then I'd go as cheap as possible.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Keep checking CL. 20 buck routers are on there all the time. If you're not a woodworker and won't use one a lot then I'd go as cheap as possible.

Already started, although after working this boat I maybe a woodworker if I figure out how to cut a straight line:facepalm:
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

My next question is what do I use for a stringer? The highest point on my stringer is 7in towards the bow and at the bilge area it's about 5in. and about 10 feet long. So do I use on single piece of 2x8 or can I use plywood spliced and glued to the desired thickness?
 
Top