Sport-craft restore

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Sport-craft restore

My next question is what do I use for a stringer? The highest point on my stringer is 7in towards the bow and at the bilge area it's about 5in. and about 10 feet long. So do I use on single piece of 2x8 or can I use plywood spliced and glued to the desired thickness?

Plywood is the recommended material.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,109
Re: Sport-craft restore

You can use a doubled layer of plywood w/ staggered joints to make a 10'+ length of plywood to make stringers... Using 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" or 3/4" plywood doubled, depending on what dimension your stringers were originally..

Check GT1000000's Bassassin thread, he did a great job of doubling his 3/8" plywood into 16' 3/4" stringers.

Do a google search:

Scarf joint


Or you can apply a 12" 'scab' or sister to the side of the plywood butt joint (6" lapped onto each full length piece)
^^^ easiest to fabricate, hardest to glass
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Thanks all. I was hoping no one would tell me a single piece of wood.
Now I wonder if anyone has glassed both sides of their deck and if so were there any problems and how it worked out in the end.
 

tallcanadian

Captain
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
3,250
Re: Sport-craft restore

You don't have to glass both sides. What most do, including myself, is roll a couple of coats of resin on and let it soak in and dry. Of course you can glass it if you want.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,109
Re: Sport-craft restore

I like to use WOG's graphic as a go to for decks, transoms & stringers:

"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

If you're going to redo the stringers & deck, a single layer of CSM & resin (at a fairly low additional cost, comparatively) will go a long way towards protecting the time & money you're spending doing all the rest of the work.... IMHO :)
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Sport-craft restore

The space below a sealed deck will "Sweat" due to condensation. Poly resin without CSM is very brittle and will Crack with any sort of flex and the deck WILL flex. I always recommend that you precoat the wood with resin and then 1 layer of CSM with resin. Do that and normal maintenance on the deck and you won't be replacing it in your lifetime. Check the first link in my Signature below.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

The space below a sealed deck will "Sweat" due to condensation. Poly resin without CSM is very brittle and will Crack with any sort of flex and the deck WILL flex. I always recommend that you precoat the wood with resin and then 1 layer of CSM with resin. Do that and normal maintenance on the deck and you won't be replacing it in your lifetime. Check the first link in my Signature below.

That was my intent was to use CSM on both side. I never want to do this again on this boat.
 

eaglejim

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Feb 2, 2008
Messages
1,006
Re: Sport-craft restore

My transom did not have an inside skin of fiberglass on it either it only had paint. I can't believe it lasted so long like that. It just proves if the transom and stringers lasted 30+ years like that they will probably last forever when done properly.

Mine was the same way it must be the way they built them back then no glass just paint and it lasted 36 years
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Mine was the same way it must be the way they built them back then no glass just paint and it lasted 36 years

Eagle thanks for the info. Wish I had taken notice of it sooner. But WOG gave me a way out by using a router, I will know how it turns out this weekend.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

The good. Used a router, I suck at it. Used a nailer for the first time. Very good.
Now the bad:facepalm: Routed out the portion so that the splashwell would fit; it won't, because it is so distorted. So I'm back to rebuilding it. Now another problem. The cap won't fit right because it's deformed (plus I strengthened it) from weak and water logged transom for years, which is now straightened. There is not enough for the screws to grab onto the boat when I get to getting them in. This deformity will be causing gap between th hull and the cap. Hopefully there are some iboat engineers that can help solve these problems.
DSCI0192 (Small).JPGDSCI0197 (Small).JPGDSCI0194 (Small).JPGDSCI0196 (Small).JPG
 

partspro

Recruit
Joined
Sep 18, 2012
Messages
4
Re: Sport-craft restore

Ok, Here's how it should be done The entire wood transom should be encapsulated with CSM. Then it's glued to the skin with PB and coved fillets created with the squeeze out. Tabbing is done with 8" strips of CSM followed by 8" strips of 1708. Then a Full Layer of 1708 is applied to the entire transom and it extends 3-4" past the tabbing. Finally but not always a layer of CSM is applied to Hide the large texture pattern of the 1708. Don't have to do this step. Mainly for looks.

Dumb question but what is pb?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Sport-craft restore

LOL Funny you should ask. BIG debate going on here on the forum about this exact subject. It's kind of a Generic term we use here on the iBoats forum for Thickened Resin. You can use Polyester Resin or Epoxy resin. You can use a myriad of ingredients to thicken the resin but the most common one is Cabosil. We call it PB (Short for Peanut Butter) because you most often mix it to the consistency of Creamy Peanut butter in order to apply it.) It's most commonly use for Glue, Filling Gaps and making coved Fillets to make laying the glass easier in corners. If you do an advanced Search on the forum using Peanut Butter as the topic and then Search ONLY The Titles you'll get some great info on the subject.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Well this past weekend mother nature (tempature) cooperated I got the underside of the decking glassed. I used CSM with 6 oz S-glass on top. I had more than enough left and I didn't want it on top since it is a fairly smooth surface.
DSCI0209 (Small).JPGDSCI0206 (Small).JPGDSCI0208 (Small).JPG

The other thing I got done was to glass the cutout for the cap and splashwell could fit back on when I get it done. I used CSM and four layers of 6 oz glass on top. I thought it was pretty stiff and sturdy before, well it's really sturdy now.

DSCI0211 (Small).JPGDSCI0210 (Small).JPG
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Sport-craft restore

Well I'd say for a first timer you "Dun Rite Gud!"
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

Thanks Wood. Sometimes I impress myself. True test will be when I put her in the water, will it be a boat ride or will I go for a unplanned swim:D
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Sport-craft restore

If you keep on building like that, it will be a Pleasurable Boat Ride for SURE!!!!!:D
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: Sport-craft restore

I hope so. It didn't have any foam in it when I tore it apart, it will when she gets back in the water. Hoping that will make the ride a lot smoother, especially since it doesn't take much wind to make three footers on the lake I go to.
 
Top