SS 180 transom question

[CheapboatKev]

What's up amigos?!!!
Yes here I am in living color asking for advice.
The aluminum rail that the transom wood rest in, a shelf?
Well mine is almost garbage. Pulled it away from the rivets with my bare hands.
Yeah I'm the HULK! (Or it's really fubar)
Soooo
Would just the proper length of alum angle in a 90 work instead?

 

[classiccat]

Re: SS 180 transom question

I assume you mean 2 90-degree pieces forming a "Z". 1 piece attaches to the transom-skin and provides a fastening surface for the 2nd piece which clamps the transom wood. I'd add the 2nd piece after you dry-fit the transom wood so that you can fine-tune the gap between the 2nd-piece and transom.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: SS 180 transom question

I assume you mean 2 90-degree pieces forming a "Z". 1 piece attaches to the transom-skin and provides a fastening surface for the 2nd piece which clamps the transom wood. I'd add the 2nd piece after you dry-fit the transom wood so that you can fine-tune the gap between the 2nd-piece and transom.

Yah, you'd have to do that ^^^^ - it's the Z that holds the transom where it needs to be.

Otherwise you'd have to run a row of bolts through the bottom of the transom to keep it in place.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: SS 180 transom question

You can make your own Z angle with 2 pieces of angle:

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Ok...
I have to remove all the old rivet heads anyway from the transom.
There is soo many below the waterline rivets to replace on this barge it isn't funny.
Even the knee brace rivets where a fountain of incoming water.
Really makes me appreciate the old B-Ticket. Never a drop from day one!

 

[jasoutside]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Seriously? Are they that bad man? Reviving and Gluvit not an option? Sounds like you are headed for a ton of work buddy!

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Well the knee brace pulled out in my hands, have to drill out the 6 rivets from underneath and redo the rivets.
The 10 rivets that hold the Z channel for the transom shelf, same drill out and replace.
Then they corrosion holes in the skin of the transom itself..
Ughhhh

 

[classiccat]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Well the knee brace pulled out in my hands, have to drill out the 6 rivets from underneath and redo the rivets.
The 10 rivets that hold the Z channel for the transom shelf, same drill out and replace.
Then they corrosion holes in the skin of the transom itself..
Ughhhh

Yes...misery does love the company :lol:

 

[djpeters]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Bummer....

It builds character!

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Hahaa a character I am...

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Yes I am working on the boat!

Ok quick question..
Do you guys drill out all the holes in the transom before or after waterproofing?
I am going to spar the living ba-jeezers out of the wood btw..not glass and resin

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Oh here is something akin to Edward J Olmos :embarassed:
lol

Yes that is my transom skin, or was as I JB welded the heck outta these areas

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Hey, Kev - I dry fit, drill, pull it out and then spar the wood. For me it's easier to seal all the nooks and crannies that way. IMHO

You have or had a case of tin moths workin' on her. :blue:

 

[ezmobee]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Do you guys drill out all the holes in the transom before or after waterproofing?

I drilled them out before. A little oversized so the sealant can get in there and then carefully redrill them to the proper size.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: SS 180 transom question

I drilled them out before. A little oversized so the sealant can get in there and then carefully redrill them to the proper size.[/QUOTE

How do you redrill an oversized hole to the right size? Guess that's where carefully come into play. Did you mean undersized?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: SS 180 transom question

For a 3/4" bolt, you drill a 1" hole (OVERSIZE) then treat w/ sealer. Hoping the sealer makes the 1" hole smaller, leaving sealer along the inside edge of the drilled hole.

Then re-drill a 13/16" hole thru the now sealed & filled hole, trying to leave sealer intact between new 'correct' sized hole & original 1" hole's bare wood surface along the interior of the hole.

If successful, there is NO bare wood edges on the interior surfaces of the drilled hole, where plywood would wick water easily & quickly. Your 13/16" hole is drilled thru the sealer...

Basically, making a sealer bushing inside the hole.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Not with spar varnish, JB 3/16" diameter reduction is a lot of build up. A 13/16" hole for a 3/4" bolt sounds about right with the spar, in my opinion. Resin - Yeah, go for a one inch hole.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Not with spar varnish, JB 3/16" diameter reduction is a lot of build up. A 13/16" hole for a 3/4" bolt sounds about right with the spar, in my opinion. Resin - Yeah, go for a one inch hole.

Yep ^^^, I didn't spend anytime thinking about drill sizes except the 13/16" for a 3/4" bolt.

BTW: Using epoxy, I'd fill the oversize'd hole completely, and redrill thru the epoxy plug.

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: SS 180 transom question

Thanks guys..
I drilled em out The other day right before I left for a couple days on the road.
Home now and will begin the sealing in the am.

 

[coolbikeguy]

Re: SS 180 transom question

hey kev ... i put my transom in then drilled the holes .... i had no template to go off of. before i put the bolts in i filled the holes with sealant .. then put it on the bolt too since most gets pushed out when you slide the bolt through. i had plenty of sealnt " squish " out around the head of the bolts so im not worried about water. i also put sealer on all the screws before running them in. the splash well holes are not drilled yet but when i drill them ill either put sealant on the bare wood or some epoxy resin since thats what i used to deal my transom scott