Starcraft Holiday Rebirth

[dozerII]

Well maybe I will get one 2" and one 1-1/2 pink board in the morning. I really hate two buy 4 sheets of 3/4 because of how solid all my sheets are. I am really thinking about were ever I would mount seats go ahead and glue and screw some 1/2 squares under the floor were I will mount pedastals at. Does that sound like a plan that will work or am I going to be sorry.

When you go to remove the sheets you will find 2.5" wide strips of aluminum joining the sheets together they are pretty flimsy. I use ply to join the sheets and make them long enough to acomadate the seat pedistals as well.

 

[badbowtie]

Well I got the side panels out tonight which was a pain in the but they would not come out with the rear metal for the rear jump seats. It looks like they are buck riveted not pop rivets so not as easy to drill out. I also got one floor panel removed so I can get a idea on what I want to get for foam in the morning. I am thinking I am going to get 1 2" sheet and 1 1" sheet I also am thinking about just putting 3/4 down for the floor. Do I need to use pressure treated plywood or just regular plywood.

 

[jbcurt00]

No pressure treated

 

[Grandad]

Well I got the side panels out tonight which was a pain in the but they would not come out with the rear metal for the rear jump seats. It looks like they are buck riveted not pop rivets so not as easy to drill out. I also got one floor panel removed so I can get a idea on what I want to get for foam in the morning. I am thinking I am going to get 1 2" sheet and 1 1" sheet I also am thinking about just putting 3/4 down for the floor. Do I need to use pressure treated plywood or just regular plywood.

A few thoughts. It's become the Starmada's mantra that pressure treated materials contain chemicals that will hasten aluminum corrosion, so no, don't use pressure treated. Now that you have some of the "floor" removed, you can see how the existing foam could easily plug limber holes and your bilge pump. Another reason to remove the existing foam is that with so many pieces and such surface area, bilge water will keep the bilge damp and stinky. It's difficult enough to keep a vessel sitting on the water, often covered in non-breathable fabric without trapping this moisture. And if you ever spill oil or fuel into the bilge, the smell is worse.

I used the original 1/2" plywood because mine was in such good shape. Age doesn't make things like plywood any weaker. (I wish I could say the same about me.) Most new plywood will be slightly less than the nominal size listed. You've noted already that the side panels are tight to the floor (as they should be), so adding thickness will make things somewhat more difficult to re-assemble, so don't go thicker than necessary.

I wouldn't expect to use the foam to support the floor, since you'll likely not get it precision fit to hull and to plywood. If you do make it fit tight, it may squeak as you step on it. I took a few pictures during my rebuild that you can see here: http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ay-reno-and-hull-repair?p=5438241#post5438241 - Grandad

 

[badbowtie]

Very nice build there Grandad there is many of things you have done I really like.,

Okay so regular plywood it will be I also will want to seal the edges and bottom before I reinstall what you guys recommend a epoxy paint or maybe even brush a coat of fiberglass resin on edges and bottom. I think I have enough to do it all.

 

[jbcurt00]

Dont use polyester resinn w out using glass too. It offers little protection w out it.

Epoxy or spar has been used by many. Most do it all, top, bottom and edges, before install to keep the mess out of the boat.

Some that use vinyl, to cover the deck, even wrap the deck pieces before install to allow each peice to be removed individually.

And be sure you are using exterior grade plywood, acx, arauco, MDO or similar. Only needs to be 'good' one side, the up side.

 

[badbowtie]

All the floor is out and I went and got 4 sheets of 3/4 BC plywood and got 4 sheets of foam to work on putting in tomorrow. I got boat all washed out and got to use the tilt trailer to make sure it is all nice and dry in morning. I will probably just go ahead and get the foam in and get all the boards cut and layed in to make easy to walk. I haven't bought any epoxy to paint it all yet. Are all you guys pop riveting the floor all back in or are you guys screwing it back in. I also am thinking about maybe doing the marine vinyl floor but it is a tad more than I want to spend so maybe just a paint with some play sand mixed in. I also am thinking about just painting all the side panels instead of upholstery for simple easy clean.

 

[Texasmark]

So what color was the foam you took out from under the floor and in what kind of condition was it? Did you put a piece of it in some water to see if it floated and if so, how high......aka was it waterlogged or wasn't it, since it was probably "Expanded Polysyrene" (Styrofoam is a brand name like Kleenex) which is closed cell, doesn't absorb water, is like mine and did not have to replace it......coffee cups don't leak. My friends daughter works for a company that makes the stuff and she knows just a little bit about it! But now you have it out, you know what's under the floor, your budget is shot but you have the warm fuzzy feeling. Good thing to have when out in your boat, especially in open water with a bad assed tide or wind.

 

[jbcurt00]

Rodent nested stryo w loose beads, as shown initial pix, wouldnt be something I'd want to put below decks.

And no, styro [expanded~EPS] isnt closed cell, and when exposed to enough water long enough, esp thru freeze thaw cycles, does absorb water.

Extruded [XPS] does not.

Hull clean out looks great. Best of luck tomorrow. Google hot knife foam cutter, it may be helpfukl shaping it to maximize the amount below decks.

 

[64osby]

I think it is time to change the title to this thread. You are way past looking at it.

 

[jbcurt00]

I think it is time to change the title to this thread. You are way past looking at it.

Oops, meant to ask that ^^^

Bad, just post what you'd like to change the title to, and I or another Mod will change it for ya..

 

[badbowtie]

Starcraft Holiday Rebirth

 

[badbowtie]

It was all white foam and it was in small little pieces but all the little pieces that were still in the hull when I had hose in there all floated. But it is all packed up in 5 more garbage bags to get rid of again. I am going to look this week and try to figure out paint to use has anybody tried using something like the rust oleum.
I also am still curious are you guys pop riveting the floor all back in or are you guys screwing it in. I am assuming these floors in the starcraft are used for a bunch of the strength in these boats also like fiberglass boats.

 

[Watermann]

Reattaching the decks should be done with the large flange rivets just as SC had from the factory.

I used the Rusto topside on my SeaNymph, even not knowing a thing about what I was doing it came out just fine. I would use it again if the tractor paint wasn't so easy to get locally. They're all the same alkyd enamel like the Rusto Pro and topside.

 

[badbowtie]

So I am thinking I need to look at tractor supply or home depot and maybe find something even cheaper.

 

[jbcurt00]

Professional Rusto has also been used successfully. Just having marine on the can you posted makes it more expensive.

TSC s Majic or regular Rusto w hardener added will bebe good too.

 

[Texasmark]

As I recall, I used pop rivets to put my in my new deck. Don't remember where I got them, big box store probably as there was no www then, but they were much larger and longer than what you normally find. Only thing to really be careful about is drilling the holes in the ribs adjacent to the chine (at the edges) to accept the rivets. Drilling with a depth limiter, home made if necessary. is a must to keep you from drilling through the hull. Course when attaching to the stringers down the middle, it's a no brainer.

 

[badbowtie]

Okay well I got all the foam in I ended up using 2 2" 4x8 sheets and 1 3/4 4x8 sheet. I forgot to take a picture of it I ended up cutting the floor sections using old ones since were so good as patterns worked great. So I got all them in know later today or tomorrow I need to locate some paint to use for the floor if anybody has link to look at from doitbest.com that they would recommend for the sides and bottom to start with sure would be great. I am really thinking I am going to just cover top with it for this year also with little play sand added in.

 

[Watermann]

I would use some oil based primer first off on the raw wood if going with paint on the decking and then use the Rusto Pro for the top coats. I added some non skid paint additive to the portion of paint above my swim ladder and on top of my trailer fenders. Man that stuff really works good. One coat of paint, sprinkle the non-skid stuff on and finish with 2 coats of paint.

https://www.doitbest.com/products/professional-industrial-enamel

 

[badbowtie]

I ended up going back to return a extra sheet of 3/4 plywood and went ahead and got kilz primer. I got the edges and the bottoms of all four painted tonight. So tomorrow I will check a couple places but figuring I need some 3/16 buy about 1.25 long rivets to fasten everything back down.