Stator/Rectifier wiring question

[Darol Wester]

Six years ago I installed a new stator and rectifier on a 1982 35 hp Evinrude. It was parked in the barn since. The original wires on both were yellow, yellow/grey and yellow/blue. When I got the new parts, all the wires were yellow. In Seloc, for that motor they're lining up the color codes with each other when connecting. Would I be correct, since all the new wires are yellow that it doesn't matter how they're connected with each other? I'm trying to find out why I'm not getting a charge to my battery.

 

[Jlawsen]

Re: Stator/Rectifier wiring question

If you have a simple 12v automotive probe style tester, you can test the output of the rectifer (red wire) for a steady bright light. If the light doesn't light then there is a problem. If the light does light and it's similar in brightness to when you connect the probe to a known good 12v battery source your rectifer is o.k. and the problem is from that point to your battery.

If the light doesn't light probe the yellow wires one at a a time and you should see a dim light that get's brighter with engine accelleration. Both yellow wires should do this. If that's happening then then rectifier should be replaced. If you have nothing from one or both yellows then either the wires have been cut or the charging coils in the stator are faulty.

 

[SparkieBoat]

Re: Stator/Rectifier wiring question

it does not matter which yellow wire goes where... Jlaw has given you great instructions.

 

[Darol Wester]

Re: Stator/Rectifier wiring question

Many thanks! I'll give that a try.

Darol

 

[Darol Wester]

Re: Stator/Rectifier wiring question

If the light doesn't light probe the yellow wires one at a a time and you should see a dim light that gets brighter with engine acceleration. Both yellow wires should do this. If that's happening then then rectifier should be replaced. If you have nothing from one or both yellows then either the wires have been cut or the charging coils in the stator are faulty.

OK. To clarify this, when testing each yellow wire, and there's 3, I SHOULD be seeing a light that's getting brighter with acceleration. When you're saying BOTH yellow wires should do this, are you saying that this is bad? I did a test on the rectifier as they showed in the book where I tested with the black wire to ground and the other to each wire from the rectifier. One way there was continuity, the other where was nothing. That was suppose to mean it's working properly. Is that correct?

 

[Darol Wester]

Re: Stator/Rectifier wiring question

OK. Never mind. I got it now. The light just came on in my head.

Thanks guys. Always appreciated.

 

[Darol Wester]

Re: Stator/Rectifier wiring question

If you have a simple 12v automotive probe style tester, you can test the output of the rectifier (red wire) for a steady bright light. If the light doesn't light then there is a problem. If the light does light and it's similar in brightness to when you connect the probe to a known good 12v battery source your rectifier is o.k. and the problem is from that point to your battery.

If the light doesn't light probe the yellow wires one at a a time and you should see a dim light that gets brighter with engine acceleration. Both yellow wires should do this. If that's happening then then rectifier should be replaced. If you have nothing from one or both yellows then either the wires have been cut or the charging coils in the stator are faulty.

OK, I did the test on the (RED) wire from the rectifier and it was a fairly good light. Not as bright as the battery put out, but not bad. I tested the three yellow wires from the stator and they all showed a dimmer light that brightened with a rev of the motor.

Next, I checked the volts in the battery and it was 12.48 prior to starting. I used a volt meter on the battery when started and with a rev, not a big one, the reading went from 12.48 to 12.55, and without the rev it settled back down again.

I did a continuity test on the red wire that goes from the connection at the rectifier wire to the the cable that connects to the battery and there's good continuity. I'm assuming that this is all correct. So.....is the little bit of voltage rise that I'm getting with the rev correct for my setup?

I appreciate your patience. This is kinda driving me nuts.

 

[SparkieBoat]

Re: Stator/Rectifier wiring question

ok, you need to get a DVA adapter, it is in my sig below, then DVA test your stator, instructions are in the free troubleshooting guide also in my sig below.

 

[hidef]

Re: Stator/Rectifier wiring question

Darol,

Your rectifier is working. That is a 4 amp charging system on that engine it isn't going to put out a lot of voltage. Max Voltage is 15.5 Volts at 4500 RPM.

If you are concerned you can disconnect the rectifier it should pass the following bench test with an Ohm Meter..

Red Lead ------ Black Lead --------- Reading

Red wire ------- Yellow wire --------- High
Yellow wire ----- Red wire ----------- Low
Yellow wire ----- Case Ground ------ High
Case ground -- Yellow wire --------- Low

If you check your stator with an Ohm meter it should read fairly low. It is nothing but a long wire to an ohm meter. If it reads high or open it is bad.

 

[Darol Wester]

Re: Stator/Rectifier wiring question

ok, you need to get a DVA adapter, it is in my sig below, then DVA test your stator, instructions are in the free troubleshooting guide also in my sig below.

Thanks Sparkie. Think I'll pick one of those up for my doctors bag.

Darol,

Your rectifier is working. That is a 4 amp charging system on that engine it isn't going to put out a lot of voltage. Max Voltage is 15.5 Volts at 4500 RPM.

If you are concerned you can disconnect the rectifier it should pass the following bench test with an Ohm Meter..

Red Lead ------ Black Lead --------- Reading

Red wire ------- Yellow wire --------- High
Yellow wire ----- Red wire ----------- Low
Yellow wire ----- Case Ground ------ High
Case ground -- Yellow wire --------- Low

If you check your stator with an Ohm meter it should read fairly low. It is nothing but a long wire to an ohm meter. If it reads high or open it is bad.

That makes me feel quite a bit better hidef. Thanks for the directions. I'll be doing that tomorrow and report back with my findings. Very much appreciated!!!

Darol

 

[Lil' Johnson]

Re: Stator/Rectifier wiring question

Those little motor's charging systems don't do much charging at all. If you are getting any voltage rise at the battery when revving the engine, its charging. If you want to check the output, you can put a multi meter inline between the red wire coming from the rectifier and where it connects to the battery(usually at the starter solenoid) and read the amperage at full throttle. Should be about 4 amps. On my little 35, it only shows like 6 or 7 volts on the red wire coming off the rectifier at idle but running wide open it is 13 at the battery but it takes a little bit to get there.

 

[Darol Wester]

Re: Stator/Rectifier wiring question

Those little motor's charging systems don't do much charging at all. If you are getting any voltage rise at the battery when revving the engine, its charging. If you want to check the output, you can put a multi meter inline between the red wire coming from the rectifier and where it connects to the battery(usually at the starter solenoid) and read the amperage at full throttle. Should be about 4 amps. On my little 35, it only shows like 6 or 7 volts on the red wire coming off the rectifier at idle but running wide open it is 13 at the battery but it takes a little bit to get there.

Thanks Johnson. More reassuring for me. I like that. I've spent 45 years of my life working on automobiles, so when I tested the output, I was expecting what I see on cars, in the ~13'sv at idle. It's a relief to learn that I have no problem. The other benefit to all this is that I've learned quite a bit too and that's a good thing.

Many thanks to everyone!!!!

Darol