Stringers rotted....

[thundercraft84]

I have taken on a 1990 thundercraft 1620 16 foot fish/ski project with a friend. Got the floor taken out yesterday and found stringers all rotted. I know that transom is rotted as well. once we get the motor off is it easiest to seperate the hull from the rubrail joint and lift it off the top and set it aside? or is there a better way? also as far as stringer replacement can we dig out the old rotted stuff and leave the fiberglass around the stringers intact and replace with new wood and just glass back over the top of them or do we have to remove all and start over? any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Stringers rotted....

Welcome to iBoats Dry Dock!!!!

It is MUCH easier if you remove the top cap from the boat when you are replacing stringers and transoms. Remove the rubber from the rub rail, drill out the rivets or remove the screws and then lift it off. There may be some resin to grind that stick the two together.
The recommended method for reconstructing your boat is to grind ALL of the old glass off. Leave NOTHING behind. Take some measurements of the topcap BEFORE removing it so you can ensure that it stays in shape. They can sometimes flex during repair. You will need to take care so the top cap will fit back on after the repairs are complete.

Make sure to wear ALL the safety gear, Goggles, Respirator, Gloves, Tyvek suit etc.. This dust is NASTY and can HURT your lungs really BAD!!!! Lot's of good threads here on the forum so do some reading and you'll find all you need to be successful with your project.

 

[thundercraft84]

Re: Stringers rotted....

thanks for the advise so with the stringers can i just remove the top of the fiberglass and dig out the wood and put new wood inside of existing fiberglass shell or do I have to remove it all and start fresh?

 

[Psiclown]

Re: Stringers rotted....

I would use a pourable composite like seacast, nida-bond, or Arjay if you want to leave the existing stringer channels. If you are going with wood, then I would recommend grinding off everything and starting from scratch. My $.02.

 

[ljc1957]

Re: Stringers rotted....

Can you post some pics? Transom jobs are easier if you remove the cap, however, some can be done without removing it.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Stringers rotted....

As I said before, the recommended method is to grind it all off and leave none of the old glass behind. Start Fresh!

Read all of this...

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=441929&highlight=parrisw

 

[thundercraft84]

Re: Stringers rotted....

as i said before, the recommended method is to grind it all off and leave none of the old glass behind. Start fresh!

Read all of this...

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=441929&highlight=parrisw

thanks for your help : )

 

[thundercraft84]

Re: Stringers rotted....

will get more pics soon here is all i got

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Stringers rotted....

The configuration of your splashwell is gunna dictate some things to you on your rebuild. You do have some options.

1. Seacast, Nidabond, or Arjay Pourable transom
2. Cut the splashwell and gunwales to gain access to the transom
3. remove the top cap.

Option one would require you to build an inner skin etc. This will show you what is involved.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=364284&highlight=archbuilder

Option 2 means you would cut the top cap just in front of the splashwell and remove it to gain access to the transom and then glass it back together when done. Gelcoating and or painting to match would be required.

Option 3 is the most time consuming but in the long run probably the best.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=442612&page=5


Just wanted you to be aware of the many methods that have been utilized by various iBoaters over the years.

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: Stringers rotted....

The configuration of your splashwell is gunna dictate some things to you on your rebuild. You do have some options.

1. Seacast, Nidabond, or Arjay Pourable transom
2. Cut the splashwell and gunwales to gain access to the transom
3. remove the top cap.

Option one would require you to build an inner skin etc. This will show you what is involved.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=364284&highlight=archbuilder

Option 2 means you would cut the top cap just in front of the splashwell and remove it to gain access to the transom and then glass it back together when done. Gelcoating and or painting to match would be required.

Option 3 is the most time consuming but in the long run probably the best.

Just wanted you to be aware of the many methods that have been utilized by various iBoaters over the years.

Option 3 is by far the best way to go.....(only way in my book)

Option 1 has been used here, I personally haven't so can't give you a lot of insight there.
Opiton 2...my biggest problem with this one is creating cosmetic work in fiberglassing the cap back together....I never could see extra cosmetics is you don't have to have it.

All in all Woodonglass has given you the best advice....this is my opinion on it.

 

[thundercraft84]

Re: Stringers rotted....

Going to go with option 3 seperating the hull and going at it that way.
I am tempted to keep the fiberglass stringer channels and pouring nida-cast or seacast into them after getting old wood out for the new stringers. but still going to rebuild transom with plywood. an opinons on this? also stringers need to be poured after transom is replaced right?

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: Stringers rotted....

Going to go with option 3 seperating the hull and going at it that way.
I am tempted to keep the fiberglass stringer channels and pouring nida-cast or seacast into them after getting old wood out for the new stringers. but still going to rebuild transom with plywood. an opinons on this? also stringers need to be poured after transom is replaced right?

Correct on "after the transom" for the stingers.
As, I stated the nida bond, sea cast, or whatever else is okay. The picture I get in my mind, is the top of stringers must be flat and true for the new deck to set on....I can't see getting that really true edge with the sea cast stuff. If the glass skin isn't really straight and true then your stringers won't be either. You don't have this issue with the transom, since it has a much thicker outer skin to give you this true top edge....I've replaced a lot of stringers so this is my view on it.

If you go with the pour in stuff let us know how it goes....

 

[thundercraft84]

Re: Stringers rotted....

just seems so daunting grinding the whole stringer and all especially with very little to no experience working with fiberglass

 

[thundercraft84]

Re: Stringers rotted....

Correct on "after the transom" for the stingers.
As, I stated the nida bond, sea cast, or whatever else is okay. The picture I get in my mind, is the top of stringers must be flat and true for the new deck to set on....I can't see getting that really true edge with the sea cast stuff. If the glass skin isn't really straight and true then your stringers won't be either. You don't have this issue with the transom, since it has a much thicker outer skin to give you this true top edge....I've replaced a lot of stringers so this is my view on it.

If you go with the pour in stuff let us know how it goes....

will do..... thanks for the info should be removing engine wednesday and then the top cap then we will be in the thick of it....

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: Stringers rotted....

just seems so daunting grinding the whole stringer and all especially with very little to no experience working with fiberglass

I understand...done it plenty of times. Now when you grind them out you just grind next to the hull and lift them out...you don't start grinding at the top and go all the way down. Often times there is a round hollow section near the bottom of the stringer (I've found this a lot) that you can just cut thru easily, and remove the whole section at once.

You can also use a sawzall down low and slice them out too.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Stringers rotted....

You can also use a sawzall down low and slice them out too.

Yep, that works GREAT, and really cuts down on the grinding and all that CRAPPY dust!!!!!

 

[RZR2007]

Re: Stringers rotted....

How long/dependable is the Seacast or other pourables in the transom?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Stringers rotted....

All of the pourables are Very Dependable and will last Lifetime of the boat. Super Strong composites.

 

[RZR2007]

Re: Stringers rotted....

Thanks woodonglass, sure seems that would save alot of time, a bit pricey, but then again time can get expensive as well!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Stringers rotted....

Saving time....MAYBE??? It all depends on the structure of your boat. Check this out

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=364284&highlight=archbuilder