Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

russ442

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Jun 2, 2010
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First post here - what a great forum and most of you follks apear to be military very cool. This one has me stumped. I have many years of automotive experience and am fairly new to the marine engines.

I purchased a 1998 Mariah Deck Boat that has no power to the point it will not plane out. I purchased it at a lower 2000 ft. elevation and brought it to Denver area at 5000 ft. Cannot find the outdrive ratio or engine S/N. It starts, idles, and runs perfect either on the garden hose or on the water. Idle is smooth and exhaust does not pulsate (like a dead cylinder will do). As soon as it goes under load it will not go above 2000-2500 rpm. Originally I had backfiring through the carb. but not so much now since the carb. has been rebuilt. It appears to rev. O.K. under no load as I can get it up to 4000 rpm in neutral.

I cannot find a engine S/N and have looked all over the motor. All I got is a casting number 10054724 which is a 5.7L. So I suspect the motor has been replaced and maybe the ignition has been cobbled together - see below under timing...

Here is a list of what I have done.
Rebuilt carb - Rockester Quadrajet 4 barrel. Idle screws will stall the engine if turned all the way in and I have them set at 2 turns. I can see fuel spraying through the primary venturies under load. The secondaries are opening about 1/4 and I can see and see fuel dumping into the secondaryies under load. If I push the secondaries open by hand under load on the lake it makes it worse as in the boat loses power.

Pulled spark plugs and found they are sooted up black. Not real bad but definitely running rich. Plug type appears to be correct for 5.7L non vortec head - don't recall the number as it is written down at home.

Replaced fuel filter water separator.

Replaced ignition coil - it is a inexpensive part and the old one looked old and it does not hurt to have a fresh one for reliability. I am getting 12.5 to 13V at the coil + terminal at all times. The new coil package said it was supposed to have an external resistor so I think I should see 9.5V. I think this will just shorten my coil life? Will address this later.

Inspected the exhaust flappers. They were free to move. The riser elbows were pretty rusty but I think this is just the water jacket. Internal cavity was free looking back into the manifolds. My temp gage stays rock steady at 175F.

Timing set at 12 deg. using the base timing method per the service manual. Looks like I have the Thunderbolt V ignition without the knock sensor. This is shown in the 1997 service manual for a V8 without the knock sensor. I do not think it is the TIV ignition as the wires going into the module do not match the service manual for a TIV but do for a TV without knock. However, I have a 861459-1 ICM module which does not make sense as this crosses over to a 5.0L and the sticker says 5.0L GEN+. I have a 5.7L block with the old style heads (no vortec). Isn't GEN + the vortec heads? I checked the advance under load on the lake and it appears to be correct as I am getting 10-15 deg advance over the base timing. I also adjusted the distributor on the lake under load and could feel the power slightly go up and down as it was turned back and forth but no huge improvement to where the boat would plane.

Prop. was originally a 19 pitch so I tried a 17 pitch with no change.

Vacuum gage reads 13-14 inches and very steady at idle which is O.K. for my altitude of 6300ft. Vacuum gradually increases when revved without load to about 18 inches and increases above 22 when throttle is closed.

I have checked the ground wire at the ICM module. I checked the shift interrupt switch and it is working O.K. but I think this would mostly cause a no start condition.

So what do you experts think. I am leaning toward ignition problem and possibly the module. They are $400 and don't want to waste $$. So how do I determine what is the correct module for a 5.7L.

And one more question - sorry about the long wind. I have two other GM motors I could swap distributors. A 1985 Chevy pickup with a 5.0L and a 1970 Olds 455 with a newer HEI (75 vintage). Will the 1985 distributor drop into the mecruiser engine casting 10054727?

Thanks In Advance
 

carcraze

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
141
Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

I am sure the experts will chime in soon on some of the diagnosis to go through on the motor. I would think a compression check would be in order though to determine if the motor has any indications of internal prblems.

On the distributor note NEVER use an automotive distributor in a marine application as they have provisions in them for flame arresting to prevent a large boom from possible gas fumes, this also goes for alternators, starters, ect.
 

dirtyoldman

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2007
Messages
359
Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

First post here - what a great forum and most of you follks apear to be military very cool. This one has me stumped. I have many years of automotive experience and am fairly new to the marine engines.

I purchased a 1998 Mariah Deck Boat that has no power to the point it will not plane out. I purchased it at a lower 2000 ft. elevation and brought it to Denver area at 5000 ft. Cannot find the outdrive ratio or engine S/N. It starts, idles, and runs perfect either on the garden hose or on the water. Idle is smooth and exhaust does not pulsate (like a dead cylinder will do). As soon as it goes under load it will not go above 2000-2500 rpm. Originally I had backfiring through the carb. but not so much now since the carb. has been rebuilt. It appears to rev. O.K. under no load as I can get it up to 4000 rpm in neutral.

I cannot find a engine S/N and have looked all over the motor. All I got is a casting number 10054724 which is a 5.7L. So I suspect the motor has been replaced and maybe the ignition has been cobbled together - see below under timing...

Here is a list of what I have done.
Rebuilt carb - Rockester Quadrajet 4 barrel. Idle screws will stall the engine if turned all the way in and I have them set at 2 turns. I can see fuel spraying through the primary venturies under load. The secondaries are opening about 1/4 and I can see and see fuel dumping into the secondaryies under load. If I push the secondaries open by hand under load on the lake it makes it worse as in the boat loses power.

Pulled spark plugs and found they are sooted up black. Not real bad but definitely running rich. Plug type appears to be correct for 5.7L non vortec head - don't recall the number as it is written down at home.

Replaced fuel filter water separator.

Replaced ignition coil - it is a inexpensive part and the old one looked old and it does not hurt to have a fresh one for reliability. I am getting 12.5 to 13V at the coil + terminal at all times. The new coil package said it was supposed to have an external resistor so I think I should see 9.5V. I think this will just shorten my coil life? Will address this later.

Inspected the exhaust flappers. They were free to move. The riser elbows were pretty rusty but I think this is just the water jacket. Internal cavity was free looking back into the manifolds. My temp gage stays rock steady at 175F.

Timing set at 12 deg. using the base timing method per the service manual. Looks like I have the Thunderbolt V ignition without the knock sensor. This is shown in the 1997 service manual for a V8 without the knock sensor. I do not think it is the TIV ignition as the wires going into the module do not match the service manual for a TIV but do for a TV without knock. However, I have a 861459-1 ICM module which does not make sense as this crosses over to a 5.0L and the sticker says 5.0L GEN+. I have a 5.7L block with the old style heads (no vortec). Isn't GEN + the vortec heads? I checked the advance under load on the lake and it appears to be correct as I am getting 10-15 deg advance over the base timing. I also adjusted the distributor on the lake under load and could feel the power slightly go up and down as it was turned back and forth but no huge improvement to where the boat would plane.

Prop. was originally a 19 pitch so I tried a 17 pitch with no change.

Vacuum gage reads 13-14 inches and very steady at idle which is O.K. for my altitude of 6300ft. Vacuum gradually increases when revved without load to about 18 inches and increases above 22 when throttle is closed.

I have checked the ground wire at the ICM module. I checked the shift interrupt switch and it is working O.K. but I think this would mostly cause a no start condition.

So what do you experts think. I am leaning toward ignition problem and possibly the module. They are $400 and don't want to waste $$. So how do I determine what is the correct module for a 5.7L.

And one more question - sorry about the long wind. I have two other GM motors I could swap distributors. A 1985 Chevy pickup with a 5.0L and a 1970 Olds 455 with a newer HEI (75 vintage). Will the 1985 distributor drop into the mecruiser engine casting 10054727?

Thanks In Advance


You are going to be running pretty rich at that altitude with those jets in the carb. You'll need a leaner set of jets. But, I don't think that's the problem here.
 

John_S

Rear Admiral
Joined
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Messages
4,269
Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

I did a quick look-up on the ICM #, and it was in the parts list for a 1998 5.0L 2brl alpha, according to MercruiserParts.com. While it is for a Gen+ (vortec) heads, it appears to not use the knock module. Timing curve is probably different than a standard head 5.7L T5, but seems unlikely to cause that much loss of power. The current replacement T5 module for 5.7L/alpha is 807264T3 according to same website. The standard head 5.7L w\T5 timing was set to 10 BTDC, not 12.

So, most likely, the boat came with the 5.0L, but some unkown 5.7 was installed. Could have been another boat, car, or truck, or some rebuild, with some mixture. Who knows? Was there any info from the seller?

I would try to ID everything you can: heads, intake, carb, cam would be nice, etc

Alpha drive serial number:
 

John_S

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 21, 2004
Messages
4,269
Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

Rebuilt carb - Rockester Quadrajet 4 barrel. Idle screws will stall the engine if turned all the way in and I have them set at 2 turns. I can see fuel spraying through the primary venturies under load. The secondaries are opening about 1/4 and I can see and see fuel dumping into the secondaryies under load. If I push the secondaries open by hand under load on the lake it makes it worse as in the boat loses power.

The Q-jet did not come from the original engine. Was there a Merc part number on it? Since you rebuilt it, do you have the jet and rod sizes? Is it mech or electric choke? The latter would probably indicate this is a replacement carb. The air valve (the plate over the 2ndarys) should not be opening at 2-2.5K rpms. Since running on the muffs is mostly idling, the black plugs would say that is not tuned right.
 

russ442

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Joined
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Messages
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Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

You are going to be running pretty rich at that altitude with those jets in the carb. You'll need a leaner set of jets. But, I don't think that's the problem here.

Thanks for the help...

I have talked to numerous marinas in teh area and they all say that they do not necesarily re just the carb for altitude. They generally leave them stock and just put up with it running a little rich.
 

russ442

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Messages
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Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

I did a quick on the ICM #, and it was in the parts list for a 1998 5.0L 2brl alpha, according to MercruiserParts.com. While it is for a Gen+ (vortec) heads, it appears to not use the knock module. Timing curve is probably different than a standard head 5.7L T5, but seems unlikely to cause that much loss of power. The current replacement T5 module for 5.7L/alpha is 807264T3 according to same website. The standard head 5.7L w\T5 timing was set to 10 BTDC, not 12.

So, most likely, the boat came with the 5.0L, but some unkown 5.7 was installed. Could have been another boat, car, or truck, or some rebuild, with some mixture. Who knows? Was there any info from the seller?

I would try to ID everything you can: heads, intake, carb, cam would be nice, etc

Alpha drive serial number:

That is what I was thinking. I have no info. from previous owner as it was purchased from a dealer and he had no history.

I cannot find the Aphph drive S/N and have heard it can be under the decal will look for other IDs.
 

Howard Sterndrive

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Messages
4,603
Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

some ideas:

compression test

check firing order for crossed wires

look for old flappers in exhaust y pipe

cut a hole in the floor and look for waterlogged foam

replace anti siphon valve at tank

run out of remote fuel tank
 

russ442

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Messages
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Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

The Q-jet did not come from the original engine. Was there a Merc part number on it? Since you rebuilt it, do you have the jet and rod sizes? Is it mech or electric choke? The latter would probably indicate this is a replacement carb. The air valve (the plate over the 2ndarys) should not be opening at 2-2.5K rpms. Since running on the muffs is mostly idling, the black plugs would say that is not tuned right.

I have the Q-jet number at home I'll get it tomorrow it was a common number and I belive it was a marine #. Primary jets are 70 with 44 metering rods. Secondary rods are CL. As best I can tell these sound like stock jets. It has a mechanical divorced choke (spring is on the intake manifold).

The secondaries were opening 1/4 when I was testing it under load on the lake. With the muffs they obviously do not open at all.
 

russ442

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Messages
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Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

some ideas:

compression test

check firing order for crossed wires

look for old flappers in exhaust y pipe

cut a hole in the floor and look for waterlogged foam

replace anti siphon valve at tank

run out of remote fuel tank

Forgot to mention a couple things

Have checked wires for cross wiring

Flappers in exhaust check O.K. and are the newer style that are "split" and hinge in teh middle.

I did pop the fuel fill cap on teh lake with no change. Would the anti siphon vavle cause starvation? I don't think I am starving for fuel? Where is the anti siphon typicall located?
 

John_S

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Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

I have the Q-jet number at home I'll get it tomorrow it was a common number and I belive it was a marine #. Primary jets are 70 with 44 metering rods. Secondary rods are CL. As best I can tell these sound like stock jets. It has a mechanical divorced choke (spring is on the intake manifold).

The secondaries were opening 1/4 when I was testing it under load on the lake. With the muffs they obviously do not open at all.


Those jets/rods do sound close to stock, from memory.

The plate on top is the air valve. The actual 2ndarys open mechanically based on primary position. Are you saying the air valve is open 1/4 of the way at 2-2.5K rpms? or do you mean just 1/4 inch gap? If the former, it sounds like the spring wind-up is way off. What did you set it to as part of the rebuild? You tested the valve by opening it more, did you also try closing it? What is the throttle position to get the 2-2.5K rpms, wide open? or does it ramp up and you hit a wall at a certain throttle position?

The reason I asked about the carb number, was to try to narrow down the possibility of where the engine came from.

Also, I suspect, but would like to confirm, this is a post '87 block. It should have center bolt style valve covers, and canted center intake bolt. Any decals on valve covers?
 

russ442

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Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

Those jets/rods do sound close to stock, from memory.

The plate on top is the air valve. The actual 2ndarys open mechanically based on primary position. Are you saying the air valve is open 1/4 of the way at 2-2.5K rpms? or do you mean just 1/4 inch gap? If the former, it sounds like the spring wind-up is way off. What did you set it to as part of the rebuild? You tested the valve by opening it more, did you also try closing it? What is the throttle position to get the 2-2.5K rpms, wide open? or does it ramp up and you hit a wall at a certain throttle position?

The reason I asked about the carb number, was to try to narrow down the possibility of where the engine came from.

Also, I suspect, but would like to confirm, this is a post '87 block. It should have center bolt style valve covers, and canted center intake bolt. Any decals on valve covers?

Yes the secondary butterflies do open mechanically and on the lake under load the air valve is opening about 1/4 inch gap at about 2500rpm. If I manually push the air valve open or close it seemed to reduce power. I was thinknig closing the air valve would be running only n the primaries and maybe it won't have enough power to plane out on the primaries - is this true. I know one performance trick on automotive Q-jets is to disconnect the secondaries while the primaries are tuned but I don't know how a boat would perform on just the primaries?

The secondary air valve wind up spring was set for 3/4 turn.

The throttle position is WOT if you push it that far and the RPMs max out at 2500 maybe 3000. As you come off idle the throttle feel and power feel normal as the boat seems to take off then about 2000 rpm it starts to bog down and by 2500 it seems like there is just noting there. If you let it labor it will slowly creep up but I don't think it will get over 3000rpm and will not plane out.

The engine (10054727) does have the center intake manifold bolts (12 intake bolts total) and center bolts on valve covers. No deacals on valve covers, no ID plate by starter. The word "Canada" is near the casting number.
 

bruceb58

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Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

What is your spark advance for various RPMs?
 

russ442

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Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

What is your spark advance for various RPMs?

I have not mapped the advance at different rpms but I do know that I am getting about 10-15 advance at 2500 rpm with no load this is in addition to the 12 deg basic so a total of 22-27.

How high can I run the RPM on the muffs? I have always heard not to run high RPM on the muffs?
 

bruceb58

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Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

For the short enough time you would need to do this test, you will be fine. Just crank up the water to the drive as high as it can go.
 

John_S

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Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

Yes the secondary butterflies do open mechanically and on the lake under load the air valve is opening about 1/4 inch gap at about 2500rpm. If I manually push the air valve open or close it seemed to reduce power. I was thinknig closing the air valve would be running only n the primaries and maybe it won't have enough power to plane out on the primaries - is this true. I know one performance trick on automotive Q-jets is to disconnect the secondaries while the primaries are tuned but I don't know how a boat would perform on just the primaries?

The secondary air valve wind up spring was set for 3/4 turn.

The throttle position is WOT if you push it that far and the RPMs max out at 2500 maybe 3000. As you come off idle the throttle feel and power feel normal as the boat seems to take off then about 2000 rpm it starts to bog down and by 2500 it seems like there is just noting there. If you let it labor it will slowly creep up but I don't think it will get over 3000rpm and will not plane out.

The engine (10054727) does have the center intake manifold bolts (12 intake bolts total) and center bolts on valve covers. No deacals on valve covers, no ID plate by starter. The word "Canada" is near the casting number.


While I have a good sense on how this engine should perform in a v runabout, I do not have experience with a deck boat. My assumption is a heavy boat but large planning surface, but still on the slow side. Multiply that by the elevation. My boating has been 2K' or lower.

Do you know what the original boat/305 pkg expected performance, at normal elevations?

Was it ever tested at a lower elevation, prior to purchase?

I assume this was an "as is" sale from this dealer. ie no warrantee?

I guess my point is, even though the unknown motor and severe performace problem may be connected, need to click off other items on Don's Checklist. The comment about water logged foam, can still be a possibility. Not sure I would cut a hole (but if you are ok with it there are hatch plugs that can be used), but you can take it to transfer station scale for weight reading of the boat and trailer, and then just trailer, + calculate gas and gear, to compare to factory weight.

A few more comments on carb. The 1/4" is probably OK. It will open some once the 2ndarys open. The 3/4 turn comment does not sound like the Merc service manual set-up, though. I believe it uses a gram scale. You should use their data vs any generic carb kit instructions. service manual #17, in the "Adults Only" section.

I don't think the issue is advance, but doesn't take long to map. The standard 5.7L 2brl, doesn't come all in to around 4K. You are getting about the right advance for the rpms you are turning. If anything it is too high. Only question is, can it advance any further.

Ratio is also stamped on drive input shaft, but don't think you want to pull drive for the info. You could turn the motor over by hand and count the revolutions to turn the prop 1 time. 1.5 engine revolutions = 1.5 ratio, 1.65 rev = 1.65 ratio. A little hard to be exact, but probably close enough.
 

bruceb58

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Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

The comment about water logged foam, can still be a possibility.
Would have to check with the manufacturer on this but if the boat is longer than 20', they aren't required to put flotation foam in the boat.
 

John_S

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Re: Stump The Experts Mercruiser 5.7L With No Power..Long

Would have to check with the manufacturer on this but if the boat is longer than 20', they aren't required to put flotation foam in the boat.

Just what you would want in a deck boat full of people? The few Mariah's I have been on, did not seem like "value" boats, but maybe they all stop it at that length? It is worth contacting them and finding out. Also, probably can find out what drive ratio was standard in that boat along with their recommendations for altitude. Maybe even some slightly puffed performance numbers?
 
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