synthetic oils

[rockyrude]

I have been a big fan of Amsoil's synthetic products for years. I am considering changing my 2000 7.3 powerstroke over to synthetic. They claim 25,000 mile change interval under normal service. Yea it's $4.00 a quart more than Rotella but I'm thinking it's worth it. Anybody have any experience with the Amsoil stuff?

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: synthetic oils

I have been a big fan of Amsoil's synthetic products for years. I am considering changing my 2000 7.3 powerstroke over to synthetic. They claim 25,000 mile change interval under normal service. Yea it's $4.00 a quart more than Rotella but I'm thinking it's worth it. Anybody have any experience with the Amsoil stuff?

Amsoil is top notch. I dont own a diesel so Im no help to you there. I know i have heard some friends wining that Rotella was reformulated and is not as good as it used to be. Probably can be traced back to taking things out of it that screw up new catalytic converters.
I have been using synthetic oils for around 14 years now. I maintain all of my own stuff and work on friends and family's auto's, boats etc. I have done a fair amount of racing and have friends who own professional race shops equipped with machine shops, dyno rooms, etc. Synthetic oils are are far superior to conventional oils. Period.

 

[bigdee]

Re: synthetic oils

Synthetic is superior to dino oil that is why I prefer to use it in gear boxes,differentials etc. What I don't agree with is the extended change interval when used in combustion engines. The reason for changing oil is to get rid of containments. For instance, anti-freeze in the oil will rapidly destroy an engine so if you had a minor coolant leak and even if it was not noticeable ( an once will wipe out bearings) you would not want to increase the risk of contamination.

 

[rockyrude]

Re: synthetic oils

I agree about the contaminants, but as I read it, you still change the filter at regular intervals just topping off what you took out.

 

[Boomyal]

Re: synthetic oils

One of the biggest reasons against extended oil change intervals is due to the unavoidable formation of Sulfuric Acid when any moisture comes in contact with the oil. This could be coolant OR simple condensation. Pure synthetics do not have any sulfer in them so they will not form any acid.

That being said, Diesels are dirty. You cannot run oil in them as long as you could a gasoline engine. Amsoil, at least, used to make a Para-synthetic oil that was cheaper than the pure synthetic. They made this with Diesels in mind, both for the more frequent oil changes and the cost of usually the larger volume of oil that diesels require.

This is what I would look into. Amsoils extended oil change interval claims are usually accompanied by the requirement to use their By-Pass filter system along with the OEM cartridge. This I would definitely due as their by-pass filter has a higher capacity and can filter finer particles than any OEM position filter. I would also use their OEM filter cartridge. I have read independent ratings on them and they are top of the line.

 

[bigdee]

Re: synthetic oils

I agree about the contaminants, but as I read it, you still change the filter at regular intervals just topping off what you took out.

Filter won't catch antifreeze. Coolant in oil is scary,especially the old green stuff with sodium-silicate....remember they used that stuff to destroy the engines on "cash for clunkers"

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: synthetic oils

Filter won't catch antifreeze. Coolant in oil is scary,especially the old green stuff with sodium-silicate....remember they used that stuff to destroy the engines on "cash for clunkers"

So how are you getting this mysterious antifreeze contamination that you are worried about? If you have a leak it needs to be fixed !!!!
No matter what oil you run and for how long!

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: synthetic oils

I use mobil1 in almost everything. Change intervals vary depending... in my wife's Honda we go 7,000 on oil and filter from mobil1. It has a 3.0 w/manual trans, she drives the he11 out of it, over 150k, but mostly highway. The car runs like new, doesn't leak a drop. At 7,000 the oil still looks pretty good. I have never bothered to have it sent off and analyzed. I have two trucks same story, high miles run like new.

 

[NewfieDan]

Re: synthetic oils

I have had a diesel for close to 10yrs. I don't use synthetic in the engine simply due to cost. I do change the oil regularly (max every 6,000km), But I do use it on everything else,transmission, differentials, etc. Have not had a problem in the whole time I have had the truck.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: synthetic oils

I use Mobil1 in my vehicles. Amsoil may make a fine product but i detest the way they market it and refuse to use it for that reason alone. Why I call it, as well as many others, Scamsoil.

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: synthetic oils

I use Mobil1 in my vehicles. Amsoil may make a fine product but i detest the way they market it and refuse to use it for that reason alone. Why I call it, as well as many others, Scamsoil.

I buy mobil1 because I can grab it from anyplace on a moments notice. I sometimes take the time to get Amsoil from a local distributor for my more expensive projects. I think their top of the line maybe a little better than Mobil1. Especially now that mobil1 15/50 extended performance is no longer available in the states.

I find it pretty amazing that a small company can make a product that, in independent tests, can compete with the likes of The Mobil Corporation.

 

[JRJ]

Re: synthetic oils

The advantage for synthetic is during very cold starting. As far as extended change intervals, that's debatable. As for axles, Curie won't warrant their high-performance units if you use synthetic, only dino is recommended. They have found synthetic doesn't dissipate heat as well.
For those of us trying to save a buck or two and use good oil, the stuff Wally sells is probably as good as any, especially as quickly as my diesel turns oil filthy.

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: synthetic oils

The advantage for synthetic is during very cold starting. As far as extended change intervals, that's debatable. As for axles, Curie won't warrant their high-performance units if you use synthetic, only dino is recommended. They have found synthetic doesn't dissipate heat as well.
For those of us trying to save a buck or two and use good oil, the stuff Wally sells is probably as good as any, especially as quickly as my diesel turns oil filthy.

Oils... motor,trans and gear.. have become pretty specialized as of late. Many different weights and viscosity ranges, additives, friction modifiers etc. Ive not heard that Currie warranty's require mineral based or that synthetic lacks the ability to shed heat. I look forward to you providing info on this matter.

Are you sure that the Currie thing isn't related to clutch chatter, with synthetic, in a posi unit maybe?

You could spend a lifetime researching change intervals with better grades of oil. They have forums dedicated to just that and laboratories that specialize in testing your oil to give you an accurate interval for your given set up and oil of choice.

These days, unless you are buying the cheapest junk out there, you are throwing money away if you live by the old 3,000 mile change rule.

 

[Steve91T]

Re: synthetic oils

I have been a big fan of Amsoil's synthetic products for years. I am considering changing my 2000 7.3 powerstroke over to synthetic. They claim 25,000 mile change interval under normal service. Yea it's $4.00 a quart more than Rotella but I'm thinking it's worth it. Anybody have any experience with the Amsoil stuff?

I've got an early 99 7.3 with 212,000 miles. I made the switch from Rotella 15w40 to synthetic Rotella 5w40 at 200,000 miles. I've had 3 oil analysis done and it just doesn't seem to care when I change the oil. I usually try to change the oil at about 8000 miles, but according to the analysis, I can take it much further. Last time I went 10,000 miles and the analysis said everything was fine. Plus, cold starts are so much easier. My truck would romp once in a while when cold, not anymore.

BTW, you've got 15 quarts of oil, it's expensive, but I think it's worth it. Don't change the oil with less than 8000 miles. I wouldn't go 25K, but you can always send a sample in for testing and let them tell you how the oil is doing.

 

[Steve91T]

Re: synthetic oils

One of the biggest reasons against extended oil change intervals is due to the unavoidable formation of Sulfuric Acid when any moisture comes in contact with the oil. This could be coolant OR simple condensation. Pure synthetics do not have any sulfer in them so they will not form any acid.

That being said, Diesels are dirty. You cannot run oil in them as long as you could a gasoline engine. Amsoil, at least, used to make a Para-synthetic oil that was cheaper than the pure synthetic. They made this with Diesels in mind, both for the more frequent oil changes and the cost of usually the larger volume of oil that diesels require.

This is what I would look into. Amsoils extended oil change interval claims are usually accompanied by the requirement to use their By-Pass filter system along with the OEM cartridge. This I would definitely due as their by-pass filter has a higher capacity and can filter finer particles than any OEM position filter. I would also use their OEM filter cartridge. I have read independent ratings on them and they are top of the line.

Diesels aren't as dirty as you think. I should send you a picture of my dipstick with 5K miles on my oil change with my 212,000 miles 7.3 And yes, I'm going another 5K before I change the oil. And I'm sure you were referring to older diesels, not any of the new diesels like BMW. Cleanest running engine I've ever seen, sounds like a gas engine, has more torque than seems should be possible, while getting 36 MPG highway.

 

[JRJ]

Re: synthetic oils

joewithaboat, you can contact Currie here http://currieenterprises.com if you're curious. I agree with you that changing oil every 3,000 miles isn't necessary.

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: synthetic oils

I'm not saying your being untruthful.

I looked at there website pretty thoroughly and didn't see anything. Also looked around the net pretty good. I'm getting ready to service one of my vehicles, rear end and trans, and was just curious if you knew something i didn't.

Did you receive this in instructions for one of their products? Its not in any of their tech articles or FAQ's or anywhere else.

 

[JRJ]

Re: synthetic oils

I'm not saying your being untruthful.

I looked at there website pretty thoroughly and didn't see anything. Also looked around the net pretty good. I'm getting ready to service one of my vehicles, rear end and trans, and was just curious if you knew something i didn't.

Did you receive this in instructions for one of their products? Its not in any of their tech articles or FAQ's or anywhere else.

Copy & paste from another forum:

The below is from Currie's axle assembly instruction sheet:

"Step 5) Final Details: Installing the unit in the vehicle varies per car so we will not cover that here.
Once the unit is installed however, you will want to remove the pipe plug in the driver’s side of the
gear case to fill the unit with oil. The unit has a 3 quart oil capacity - do not put any more than 3
quarts in the unit or it will leak out. You will want to use only a good name brand 85-140 weight gear
oil such as 9-Plus oil, Torco, Kendall, or Valvoline. Never use any type of synthetic oil, synthetic
blend oil, store brand oil, or Sta-Lube brand oil."

The Currie units are built for extreme use. My 3500 Ram came with 75W-90 synthetic OE from the factory, and hasn't gotten hot enough to burn the paint off yet.

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: synthetic oils

Copy & paste from another forum:

The below is from Currie's axle assembly instruction sheet:

"Step 5) Final Details: Installing the unit in the vehicle varies per car so we will not cover that here.
Once the unit is installed however, you will want to remove the pipe plug in the driver’s side of the
gear case to fill the unit with oil. The unit has a 3 quart oil capacity - do not put any more than 3
quarts in the unit or it will leak out. You will want to use only a good name brand 85-140 weight gear
oil such as 9-Plus oil, Torco, Kendall, or Valvoline. Never use any type of synthetic oil, synthetic
blend oil, store brand oil, or Sta-Lube brand oil."

The Currie units are built for extreme use. My 3500 Ram came with 75W-90 synthetic OE from the factory, and hasn't gotten hot enough to burn the paint off yet.

I know their have been problems with the synthetic lubes not working well with some of the clutch assemblies in some clutch style differentials.
I have a z06 corvette and hang out with guys that road race them. They use a heavier synthetic lube than i run on the street. I dont know what the temps they are but i promise they are very hot. The overwhelming majority of guys i know run syn. either Mobil1, Amsoil or Redline. I have some offroad buddies that like Torco. Some add friction modifier for the clutches, I do.

 

[Steve91T]

Re: synthetic oils

I know their have been problems with the synthetic lubes not working well with some of the clutch assemblies in some clutch style differentials.
I have a z06 corvette and hang out with guys that road race them. They use a heavier synthetic lube than i run on the street. I dont know what the temps they are but i promise they are very hot. The overwhelming majority of guys i know run syn. either Mobil1, Amsoil or Redline. I have some offroad buddies that like Torco. Some add friction modifier for the clutches, I do.

C6?