Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

rothfm

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Sep 26, 2006
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Posting for a friend, I'm an outboard guy and have no idea.

Friend found a terrific older Tiara Persuit 20'. The outdrive is removed/gone and the trailer shot. When he picks it up, a new trailer will be with him. He wants to float the boat, while swapping the trailer.

Is this ever done? Can it be done? It will only be floating a few minutes to get it on the new trailer. Is there a safe way to block up the thru-hull opening??

While I'm here...What might be the year compatibility for an outdrive for this boat..The block is a 2003 Mercruiser 5.0L Efi. Again, outboard guy--I havent a clue but trying to help him out.

Thanks
Mark
 

rothfm

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

Should have clarified...Just the outdrive is removed. The Bell housing and transome plate are intact. the Tilt arms are hanging.
 

Fishermark

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

I guess you could stuff some rags in there and keep the fingers crossed! ;) Tape some plastic bags around the opening. Be sure your bilge pump works.

There is a company that makes new aftermarket sterndrives. You can pick up a brand new outdrive, complete, for around $1,600. It is Sterndrive Engineering - they even sell them here on Iboats.
 

rothfm

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

Thanks Fishermark.
 

thumpar

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

Check the serial numbers or post some pics. It could be a Bravo drive was on it. Fishermark's idea is probably the best you are going to find if you want to put is in without a drive. The only other way would to have someone make a plate and seal it then bolt it down but it might not be cheap.
 

MarkSee

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

While that is the least dollar cost method, have you checked with any local trailer shops or boat facilities that have have a small Travelift on site that he could do the swap?

You signature show Boston and I would think in that part of the country where boats get hauled for winterization you might be able to find someone with a device without paying too much.

Mark
 
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rothfm

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

thanks Thumpar.

The seller (sale complete next Sat) is going to call the shop that took off the outdrive to see if he can get it back as part of the sale, or at least tell us the serial/model it was...thats a big help. Seller said it was bound, but I hope he can ask for it back!

We'll get all the serials next weekend when I help him bring it home. Guess we'll rig up something to seal it for a bit for the trailer swap.

Friend is looking at outdrives now, but has no idea what to look for, ie...compatibility.
 

rothfm

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

Thanks Mark,

Yes, good alternative...there is a ramp close and that would be easy. but its also close to some marina's and worth checking into having them lift it off/on. Good idea, we'll make some calls this week.

I have visions of rolling it off the old trailer and going under :-( With me bieng there to help and my luck lately, anything is possible!
 

rothfm

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

From what I can gather about the Tiara itself, originally they had 4's and 6's in them. May have been repowered with that 5.0. My friend will pick it up Sat, but will try to get the seller to locate the outdrive and/or get all the serial numbers of all components.

thanks
 

thumpar

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

A 20' boat with a 5 liter. I cannot imagine it had anything other than a Alpha Gen II. But it is a good idea to verify with the serial number to be sure.

Here's the webpage for the aftermarket drives.
It is rare but they do make them. Even the 4.3l is available with a Bravo 3. My 5.7l came with a Bravo 1 from the factory which is somewhat rare. All I am saying is to make sure before buying a drive.
 

matt167

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

If you can't get the cooked drive back. Any Lowes or other hardwareish place should have 16-18ga sheet steel in a size big enough to bolt to the gimball housing enough to stop it from sinking, with a good battery and a functional bilge pump, I'd personally have no issue with even an hr trying to get the trailer adjusted right. Just keep check on the battery/pump
 

MarkSee

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

Good idea, we'll make some calls this week.

One thing to remember, and maybe your buddy can check, is the new trailer setup for the hull specs of that specific boat assuming it is a wood type bunk trailer?

Boat bottoms/strakes can very and unless the bunks are set up at the right angle and right distance apart, you may need to do some on-the-fly tweaks so your few minutes of floating the boat might end up being a little longer.

Don't want to try and save a few pennies and end up costing more if something unforeen should happen.

My 'Dancer was a slipped boat and I was buying a used/refurbished trailer for it from a boat trailer place that was selling it for a previous customer. He HAD to know what boat was going on it so he could set it up properly for the 270 hull design; fit perfectly when we loaded the boat on the trailer.

Mark
 

rothfm

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

Thanks Mark.....Agreed for sure.

We'll be able to rework and tweek the trailer once its home safe in his garage. This spring I complete refurbed and changed mine alot, all while on the trailer by carefully jacking it up here and there.

We both trailer exclusively, and at sometimes long distances...The trailer is actually the most important part of the rig in my book. Very good point, and point taken.
 

rothfm

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

Update:

Helped the friend pick up his new-to-him boat. Was able to get it home on the original ratty trailer. We'll work that issue later. Its an older Tiara 20' walk-around...Really really nice solid boat, and a great layout.

The owner was able to get his cooked outdrive back....NICE! But Being an outboard guy, I'm not sure what it is actually. It appears bound and we will be taking it apart shortly to see what are might have a problem. The seller was one of these guys that knew little mechanically. He took it in to a shop and was quoted 6k for outdrive work!!! Yikes....

Wondering if someone can help me ID these Serials I got..I've looked at several sites and they dont seem to match up with what we are told this stuff is. If he has to shop for an outdrive, I'm sure he needs to know the specs on what was on there.

THE ENGINE--original replaced (with an "new" Mercruiser) in 2003 with a 5.0L EFI. It has new Serial stickers on it....0M083534. 170 hrs on motor.

BELLHOUSING: This decal is on the very top of the outside transom bracket..ie..Bellhousing(outside hull)?? 0F851574

OUTDRIVE: Very clean but cannot find a serial anywhere at all....Told is is a Alpha GenII


The little I know is that GenI is not compatible with GenII. But would we have to look for a drive specifically off a V-8 5.0L 3.5?? Or is there a year range that would be compatible, if, given the engine is truely a 2003 Era? Sorry, He is looking to me (the boat guy according to him) for help....I'm the outboard guy. These things confuse me.


Oh,,,,the seller did say he was told it needed a gimbal housing...We'd done the bearing before, not too bad...but does the housing ever go bad, if so, what should we look for.

Again, Thanks

Mark
 

thumpar

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

The transom serial comes up as an Alpha 1 Gen 2. You can get a new SEI drive for $1500 and it comes with a 3 year warranty. Did he say why he would need a new gimbal housing?
 

mbasura

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Feb 10, 2013
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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

back to in water trailer swap. Best idea is to see if a shop could do the swap. If you have to do an in water swap, plumbers use an inflatable bladder to temporarily block drain lines in houses while the test for leaks. The Depot sells them for about $20.

CHERNE 4 in. Rubber Test Ball Plug-270040 at The Home Depot

This would be the most secure way to block the hole. The last piece of advice would be pick the quietest time of the week to do the transfer so there is no rush. You don't want to try this on a Saturday afternoon. That being said - dry land swap has a lot less unknowns.
 

rothfm

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

Thanks Thumper....So that number on the back outside upper bracket is called the transom assembly vs gimbal assembly?
No he didnt say. The seller , although a real nice guy, is the total non-mechanical type. We got the feeling he took it in, and they marina shop saw him coming. We inspected it, and it pivots fine and we so no issue with it.

If thats the case, we are going to do the usual gimbal bearing, bellows etc....and hopefully we can rework the outdrive or look at one of the at SEI (thanks).

Do you know what we'd have to look at for compatibility on that drive if he was to look for another locally?...Years, V-8 models only, Gear ratio's?
 

Grub54891

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

Simple,cut a peice of plywood,drill the holes where the studs are, put plumbers putty on where the drive bolts on,snug it up,switch it out. Done.
Grub
 

thumpar

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Re: Temporarily blocking the thru-hull opening for in-water trailer swap?

Thanks Thumper....So that number on the back outside upper bracket is called the transom assembly vs gimbal assembly?
No he didnt say. The seller , although a real nice guy, is the total non-mechanical type. We got the feeling he took it in, and they marina shop saw him coming. We inspected it, and it pivots fine and we so no issue with it.

If thats the case, we are going to do the usual gimbal bearing, bellows etc....and hopefully we can rework the outdrive or look at one of the at SEI (thanks).

Do you know what we'd have to look at for compatibility on that drive if he was to look for another locally?...Years, V-8 models only, Gear ratio's?
I have always understood that the transom assembly was the gimbal housing and the transom plate (inside) made up the transom assembly but I could be wrong. The gimbal housing would be the plate on the outside that holds the gimbal bearing. Then you have the gimbal ring and then bellhousing that the drive actually mounts too.

That Gen 2 alpha came out in 1990 but there was a switch over period. They are easy to tell the difference by looking at them. The Gen 2 will have a swept back skeg instead of the completely vertical trailing edge on the regular Alpha. The ratio you need is for the v8 engines. It is 1:1.47.
 
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