Re: Thru hulls vs thru leg back pressure test
how many of you would buy a nice set of aftermarket heads, have them worked and then put a stock manifold and two barrel carb on it? or a good size cam and then crapy stock old style 1.94 / 1.5 heads?
or leave a set of the old style factory cast exhaust manifolds on and run dual 3 inch pipe with a crossover and low resistance mufflers? of big tube headers with a factory dingle tail ppipe, catalytic converter and muffler behind them?
Even before complicating the picture with the water issue, you have to consider that going with stock or near exhaust manifolds and even running them wide open may not really do anything to reduce backpressure or especially flow rate where it counts at the exhaust port on the head...
If it's all about pushing and pulling more fuel and air mixture through that air pump we call an engine, and when you consider the way a carb is designed, if you get more airflow then you are also very likely going to have to fatten up the fuel mixture to see the potential gains anyhow...
I used to play with bikes a little bit as I'm gathering some folks on here do / have... and if I jetted right for the street with the muffler on, and then slipped it off to run just the bare collector, I'd see little or no gain in performance (also make a heck of a racket and probably burn things up in a hurry as well), but on the other hand if I fattened the mixture up by a couple of jet numbers, then it would run a a bit too rich around town, but when the muffler comes off it's a whole different animal...
so one for the closet (backyard?) enginerring types out there...
I've mentioned the drive heat thing a couple of ties and no one seems to say a word about it... I know that heat is a big enemy on overpowerd drives, and that people claim a big difference with drive showers, but why then don't we worry aobut running ALL of the exhaust gasses throughthe outdrive... Surely when runing flat out for a good bit that contributes as much heat as anything to the drive? (unless the water is cool enough that it drops the temp to below oil degredation temps... but wait, we let the water drain on the bottom part... I have a feeling that the heat capacity of the water as well as the heat of vaporization is the reason that it's not a problem... but then again, maybe is isn't/ i've never had the oil temp gauge in my oitdrive when the exhsuat went through the drive...