Tower of power polished cowl wrap.

ryan 98

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
80
So I went at this old girl that was already in surprisingly good shape for the year and decided I wanted it perfect. I went with Mercury's phantom black enamel paint and that side of it came out perfect. Can't say enough good about this paint being its from a rattle can, it laid out so smooth and mirror finish that it would pass as factory. But then came the cowl wrap. I was just going to give it fresh paint and clean it up. But I got thinking about the fact its aluminum (and I had a spare if it went sideways on me) well I thought why not polish it like some of the early motors. It's not finished in the photo, still have to do some more sanding and polishing but it came out pretty damn nice. Now the big question is how to keep it that way? Being she's an old merc the cover has to come on and off about 20 times a season and it obviously has quite a bit of flex. So I'm thinking most clear coats would just chip off of it. When I've polished aluminum parts on cars in the past they oxidize up pretty damn quick. Now this is on a boat that is always covered and is only trailered out for day trips in fresh water. I'm wondering how quick it will tarnish in those conditions, I'm fine with polishing it out once a season if that's all it takes. So I'm basically looking for input from anyone who has dealt with polished aluminum on a boat and how to keep it nice. And of course don't forget it has to be able to handle all the flex of taking it on and off. And while we're at it if anyone has any suggestions to some cool old mercury decals that would fit nicely in the space on the cover that would be great. I'm more looking at older logos since the black and shades of brown label this motor came with when new is just ugly to me.


And for anyone wondering about the process I used.
1. Aircraft stripper and let it set up for about 15 minutes. This part does basically nothing except make the paint about 10% softer for the next steps, you could easily skip it. I tried about 5 different strippers and nothing touched it.
2. I went at it with a high rpm die grinder and Steele wheel. This will leave you with a very rough pitted looking surface. But it's surprisingly even on the surface finish and this helps out with the next step.
3. I take sandpaper all the way up to 6 or 800 grit and smooth out all the Topps of the ribbed areas and all the smooth ones. This leaves that rough surface in the valleys of the ribbed areas and really makes it pop when you polish it.
4. Finaly I polished it with cutting compound meant for aluminum and a polishing disk on a andle grinder. Just remember how thin and easy to warp the metal is. The polishing puts a lot of heat in it quickly so you have to jump from spot to spot if you don't want to ruin it.

Thanks for any input. And I'm curious if anyone else has had a go at doing this on these old mercs. Seems like such a waste to paint all that shinny aluminum. IMG_20210614_200625_295.jpg
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,105
Gee, I like 'em black, with the pretty decal colorings.

I never did like the brown color, but the blues and silver and red are pretty.
 

ryan 98

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
80
OK----So why does the cowl have to come off 20 times a season ??
So far she's been a good runner but touchy. And I doubt that will ever get worked all the way out if it. I originally thought I got one with a pristine harness on it. But once it it got bouncing down the lake it's starting to show up that there is some hidden corrosion in there to find. One bad rectifier and a sticky ignition advance spring unit on it so far. And that's just its first 3 times out. Oh an a new set of exhaust chest gaskets, it blew those too. Nothing that you can really complain about on a 34 year old motor, just expected troubles. Maybe 20 times is an exaggeration. The point I was making is I couldn't just clear coat it and gently finess it off at home once a season. I need to be able to wrestle it off at the dock and get in there when I have to. It would need to be a finish that could take the repeated flexing of the cover going on and off
 

ryan 98

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
80
Gee, I like 'em black, with the pretty decal colorings.

I never did like the brown color, but the blues and silver and red are pretty.
I'm the same. The original plan was to just paint it and throw the 70s blue decals on it. Funny enough it's on a 1977 boat that's almost the same blue as the merc decals were back then. The decals on it were shot beyond saving, and trust me I tried to just tape them and touch them up. It gets better looking once its polished to a perfect shine, I've been picking away at it in the evenings. This is more of a form of redemption for me than anything. I just did a ground up rebuild on a 1958 travel trailer that I wanted to polish. but it became way to much trouble and I painted it. So I already had all the kit for polishing aluminum and thought I'd have a go at a smaller project that I could win. I do think it's a lot since it polishes out to perfect chrome with enough work. But with a blue logo breaking it up in the middle and the boat in the water I think it will look just fine. And I always have the spare cowl to paint up any way I like latter.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,105
Aftermarket decals are available on ebay and amazon. You could get OEM style or put together a custom look.

The nasty brown decal can come off with a heat gun and putty knife.

How about a nice white or silver "Mercury" on the black wrap cowl?
 

ryan 98

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
80
Aftermarket decals are available on ebay and amazon. You could get OEM style or put together a custom look.

The nasty brown decal can come off with a heat gun and putty knife.

How about a nice white or silver "Mercury" on the black wrap cowl?
The decals came off ok. A quick trick I've learnt other than the heat gun is to just hit them with some carb clean and let it sit 5 minutes. Softens them up reall good and they peel off. Of course it will also soften paint so only use it if your stripping it right down. I did finish polishing it to an absolute mirror. Looks pretty good but it's too much chrome. This would be a perfect way to sneak a newer cdi merc on to a 50s boat and make it look right. I think I'm going to put the 1500 decals on it, just the logo stripe, not the hp part that's separate, no need to be a poser. Then all probably black out everything but the ribbed portion. Just thought this post would be worth while on here since sooner or latter someone's going to wonder if they can polish one. Now if they Google it they will know they can.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,105
I always liked the 1977 Merc 1500 decals. Nice shades of blue and a bit of red trim.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
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50,297
Looks good, however you know that their phantom black is just Ditzler PPG black in a more expensive label. rattle can solvent-dry paint will not stay on a motor. best is always a catalyzed paint.

Mercruiser/Mercury marine paint process and paint materials (pulled from the manuals) are in the Mercruiser DIY sticky

only thing you can do with polished aluminum to keep it polished looking is to bright anodize it or at a minimum, polish it 1-2 times a year and used shark hide
 

ryan 98

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
80
Looks good, however you know that their phantom black is just Ditzler PPG black in a more expensive label. rattle can solvent-dry paint will not stay on a motor. best is always a catalyzed paint.

Mercruiser/Mercury marine paint process and paint materials (pulled from the manuals) are in the Mercruiser DIY sticky

only thing you can do with polished aluminum to keep it polished looking is to bright anodize it or at a minimum, polish it 1-2 times a year and used shark hide
Oh I'm well aware of the life span on this kind of paint. She sits under a cover most of the time tho. It's only used for day trips. And the last motor on it I painted the same way and got 6 years out of it still looking good. I considered hitting it with my favorite automotive clear after but I'm thinking it would not be suitable over an old enamel, at least that's what the can claimed on it. The boat itself I shot in a catalyzed epoxy paint and it worked out good. Gelcoat was out of the question since the boat has a good old macco re spray on the top of it probably from the 80s. That's a good tip on the color code tho. Next one I do I'm going that route since nothing beats a real gun when laying down paint. And I figure on just polishing the cowl and keeping it waxed. It's been a good month and no oxidation has shown up. I actually haven't even set down to finish the sanding and polish on it yet. Started having too much fun using the boat.
 
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