Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

[ccave04]

Ok so here's what happened:

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=548402

Quick Summary if you don't wanna read that, no grease in the bearings -> caught fire -> bearings disintegrated -> boat made it to the slip -> Repair Shop fixed: Both Rear Brake Drums, Wheel Bearing, Shoes, Hardware, Inner Seals and Sleeves, Repaired Hubs. -> Picked up trailer and they said Master Cylinder is shot and showed me a spring with a completely rusted away piece of metal attached. So I brought the trailer home (only 1 mile) to see if I can repair the master cylinder myself so that the trailer brakes can work once and for all ( just bought boat and trailer last fall).

Trailer: 2000 Hustler Marada Edition, Tritan Master Cylinder Welded On (Boat is in signature Line)

So I have gotten this home and started taking apart the master cylinder to see what is going on there (I have no clue even after taking apart). I am trying to figure out if I need to replace the entire master cylinder or not. If I do, it is welded on and I do not own a welder... so is this another job for the shop or can I do this myself. I am attaching a ton of pics, and if anyone can supply a starting point I would appreciate it.



Pic 1: The Trailer
Pic 2: The top of the master cylinder
Pic 3: A rusty brake line farther down on the trailer
Pic 4: Rusty brake line coil on inside of left tire
Pic 5: Inside of Left Tire View

 

[ccave04]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

More Pics...



Pic6: Close up view of right side tire (fire side)
Pic7: View inside master cylinder looking towards tow vehicle
Pic8: Inside master cylinder looking towards boat
Pic9: Coupler after detached from master cylinder
Pic10: Broken spring given to me at repair shop saying this is why surge brakes don't work

 

[ccave04]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

Final Picture..



Pic11: Side view of welded on master cylinder

 

[Josh P]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

found a parts list and exploded view of the model 60 titan hopefully that helps
http://www.championtrailers.com/TDMO60MANUAL.pdf

ok i looked again and i think your gonna have to take it off the tongue to even rebuild it, if you did that you could just drill and bolt the new one on. Im not to familiar with hydraulic trailer brakes tho.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

I would just buy a whole new coupler than repair what you have. Hard to tell if you have enough room to bolt a new one on vs welding a new one on.

 

[ccave04]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

I would just buy a whole new coupler than repair what you have. Hard to tell if you have enough room to bolt a new one on vs welding a new one on.

After looking at the price (129.95 + Tax? & Shipping) I think you right. The MC that is on there now it looks like originally had the mounting holes as well and when they welded it to the trailer they welded the holes as well. It looks like there is room to drill for the holes however the closest hole to the end is only back about 1/2 an inch... should that be ok?

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

should that be ok?

That would be a little too close for me.

 

[ccave04]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

After looking at a couple of friends trailers I think that the 1/2" should be plenty of space if I need to replace the entire MC. The more I look at diagrams however, the more I believe that the only thing that is not functioning inside is the push rod assembly (that is what rusted off and snapped. Would it be stupid to just replace that part ($20) or should I really just pony up and by the whole damn MC and not worry about it for 10 more years...

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

Without question, you need a new master cylinder at the very least.

As far as just bolting it on, you always have the option of welding another tab of metal to the coupler and have it also bolt through the trailer frame. Lots of ways to do this!

 

[ccave04]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

Indeed, I don't know why I am fretting about $150 to safely tow my trailer... I'm gonna buy the whole actuater setup bolt it on and see if my old man can weld in a couple spots as well. Thanks for your input...

 

[tractoman]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

You can rebuild it the way it is. It is a Titan Model 60 and i redid mine which is also welded on like yours. It may be more cost effective to purchase a complete unit though and use all new stuff except the housing. shouldn't need to weld anything.

 

[lncoop]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

Cave, I can't imagine a master cylinder being welded in. We are talking about a Titan Model sixty, right? If so, all that should be required to remove it is a 5/16" nut driver (or wrench if they're stubborn) and an open end wrench (can't remember what size) for the fitting on front. Are you sure you're not looking at the coupler itself?

 

[oldjeep]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

If it were me I'd just replace the whole coupler/mc assembly - whole thing looks like a rusty piece of junk. Looks like you can buy a complete titan model 60 for about $120 shipped (google search) or for $40 more you can buy it from iBoats.

 

[lncoop]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

As long as we're piling on; lines don't look too hot either.:redface: I will say this. If you stick with the model sixty (new or existing) go ahead and order a couple extra orifice fittings because you'll strip the threads on the first one. It's way too easy to do. I can't post a link to one, but the item number is ST-TD1209800. I got that number from trailerandtruckparts.com (whom I highly recommend if you can't get what you need from iboats). I think it's actually Titan's number, but I'm not positive.

 

[ccave04]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

Yeah, sorry for the confusion, I was calling the whole MC/Actuator/Coupler just the MC prior for some reason. Anywayz... I orderd the whole setup - Housing, Master Cylinder, New Coupler, the whole package. It was $150 after shipping. The old housing was welded on, I cut that off with a grinder and last night the new package arrived at the house. The instillation instructions say to BOLT this on and not weld it back on (in big bold letters). So, I am going to put the thing on drill the holes and bolt her down then bleed the brakes and give her a go Thanks for everyones input.

 

[lncoop]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

Sounds good cave, but I can't stress enough please be careful with that orifice fitting. It really does strip unbelievably easily, and you most likely won't find another one anywhere in town. Also, based on what the pics show I'd strongly encourage you to go ahead and replace the brake lines. Your call of course. Good luck with the project.

 

[ccave04]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

All replaced. New actuator works great, incoop I see what your saying how that fitting could easily be stripped. Once I realized it was metric it was no big deal, and actually the fitting on the one I replaced is still good as well. Either way once I drilled the holes and bolted the actuator on, I replaced the bleeder valves w/ speed bleeders and the process went much quicker. It will be nice to give this a tow and see how it handles with brakes for the first time

 

[lncoop]

Re: Trailer Master Cylinder Replacement Help

Hey, that's great cave. I think you now have the six million dollar trailer. "Gentlemen, we can rebuild him....." Let us know how the shakedown tow goes.