transom and Stringers

CT River Runner

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Jan 5, 2015
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115
Good day boys! Glued screwed, and clamped. Ripped out some more Stringers and cross braces. Next weekend the transom is going in! Obviously before that I'll hit it resin a few times. Dry fit it again.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Based on your glue up pics, Here's what I KNOW from my 40+ years in woodworking and the 5+ years here on the forum talking to the PRO's and all the MFG's reps etc.... IF You and the other owners of this boat in the next several decades, exercise the proper care and maintenance of this boat (i.e. predrill any holes in the transom and fill with epoxy or the proper marine sealant and coat all fasteners with the same sealant and conduct periodic inspections of the outdrive seals etc to ensure no leaks develop) then this transom you've fabricated will be in the same condition that it's in right now 50 years from now. I can say that, because I own a boat that's has a 50 year old transom that was cared for. Wood will last indefinitely if it's taken care of. I wouldn't want to be the one trying to rip those two pieces of plywood apart, that's for sure!!!:D:eek:;) Are you gunna drill some holes to make some PB "Rivets"
 
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CT River Runner

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Jan 5, 2015
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115
Neversinksmith, I couldn't have done it without these boys here. Make sure to ask a lot of questions. There will be a lot of debate!!!! You'll find out to make the best decision that is best for you and you're wallet.
 

CT River Runner

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Jan 5, 2015
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Once the transom core is completely cured, I will then be drilling 1/2" holes in all the screw holes to act as a "pb rivet". I'll sand it down with my belt sander real quick, slightly round the corners, and put a few coats of resin on the core. I'm going to fabricate two handles on the star and port side of the in facing ply, so we can grab it and hold on to it with out touching the back side where all the goo is, sliding, puzzling, maneuvering it to the hull and clamping it into place. I have more grinding to do today, I have a few things I can do before the core goes in. I need that in so I can really get going on my Stringers. I'll keep you updated.!
 

jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
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Encapsulating the core with resin is a good idea and I'll be encapsulating mine with 4 coats of epoxy before installation.
 

JASinIL2006

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Feb 10, 2012
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You might want to think about whether you want to drill that many 'rivet' holes... I think it's way more than needed, and I'd be worried about weakening that nice big hunk of wood you just made. If you drill 1/2" holes along that grid, you'll have compromised all plies in a nice straight line in both the north-south and east-west directions. Better to stagger them in a random pattern.

Also, you really only need a few holes for the PB to ooze thru; 5 or 6 would probably be plenty.
 

kcassells

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Encapsulating the core with resin is a good idea and I'll be encapsulating mine with 4 coats of epoxy before installation.


I'm a newb Grub. I saw you mentioned cdx is ok to use, is that what you will be using on your transom? Is that a good wood for the application?
 

CT River Runner

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jan 5, 2015
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......grinding........SUCKS!!! God, does anybody have a better way to grind? I'm using a 40 grit metal sanding pad. Works great........ For 5 mins! I got a lot done today but holy s&#!. Still have half the boat. Help me!
 

CT River Runner

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When I did the comparison with cdx vs acx, there's a HUGE difference. This acx almost has no voids, Strait as an arrow. Cdx Douglas fir is junk compared to this. Warped, voids, ugly $&#!. Thank you for talking me out of it. Much rather pay the extra 8 bucks!
 

jigngrub

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I'm a newb Grub. I saw you mentioned cdx is ok to use, is that what you will be using on your transom? Is that a good wood for the application?

Usually CDX isn't a good choice for someone that doesn't work with wood all the time and knows the difference between the good and bad.

I mentioned it because I was in HD the other day and saw a bundle of it on the rack that was exceptional for that grade, very few and very small edge voids on all 4 sides and the sides weren't painted or sealed and you could actually see what you were getting. I do plan I buying a couple sheets of this wood to investigate and use if I deem it worthy, if it isn't any good I'll use it for something else. I'll let you know what I find out about it KC.
 

rickryder

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Jun 24, 2010
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......grinding........SUCKS!!! God, does anybody have a better way to grind? I'm using a 40 grit metal sanding pad. Works great........ For 5 mins! I got a lot done today but holy s&#!. Still have half the boat. Help me!

Very good job on the transom CT

Are you using these 24 or 36 grit flap wheels on a right angle grinder??

 
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jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
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Step down to a 24 grit and you'll be surprised at how much faster you can go.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Personally, I don't like the Flap discs. I like the resin coated discs (24 or 36 grit) with a rubber back up pad. I think they work better and last longer. I use an old tennis shoe to grind on and keep em clean. Please tell me you're wearing a tyvek suit, respirator, gloves with plenty of ventilation etc...:eek::D;)
 
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