Re: transom rebuild help!!!!
I had an extremely similar problem: <br /><br />I knew the transom on my 40 year old boat was bad from unsealed tow eyes, and aluminum trim screw holes. I could SEE the water level inside the interior glass skin of the transom! The problem was (is) its got a splash well which limits access- WHAT TO DO? <br /><br />I cut the whole skin off the inside and removed the wood fron the inside. I then removed the transom trim piece and used a LONG screwdriver to seperate the outer skin from the splashwell skin. <br /><br />Much prying and circular saw work later it was a 100% wood free shell. Now on to the replacement. <br /><br />I used the old wood as a pattern and made a double layer of jigsaw puzzle pieces that fit together up and into the whole transom. I ground the glass to fresh resin to ready for the new wood. 2 layers if 3/4 marine grade plywood with OFFSET joints positively slathered with resin snuggled nicely into the previous transoms void. <br /><br />Without a ton of clamping space to draw the new wood together I used the 4 engine mounting bolt holes, the spashwell drain hole and the bilge plug hole as holes to "clamp" the wood together with bolts. 8 other clamps across the top edge of the transom made the skin/wood/splashwell skin stick together. I did however have to drill some holes about a foot above the water line to inject resin into an unexpected void. I read from the forums that this is not a serious concern. <br /><br />New wood CAN be made to fit up and into an enclosed transom WITHOUT cutting up your splashwell or removing the rubrail and decking...<br /><br />Is it stronger? Dunno, I've only seen my boat. Your is probably similar, but who can tell what will work...