transom rebuild help!!!!

pursuit2460

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
189
I know it been talked about in other fourms but not for what i have. I have a 88 21 Answer open fish(formally a florida marine patrol boat).My problem is that i cant get to the transom from the top it a full top liner or closed transom.I dont know if i should cut the top liner from side to side and lift it of the boat or cut along the inside wall and pull that out.If i cut along the inside i wont have access to the top of the tramsom. If cut the top liner from side to side i will but when i glass it back in it wont have the same strenght it did from factory. Another thing is is it worth it on this boat than i already have. Ive all ready done the stringers, bulk head, gas tank and floor. Need some serious advice on this. THANKS
 

brownies

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
495
Re: transom rebuild help!!!!

I don't clearly understand the message?<br /> Does the boat have a top cap that can be removed?<br /> Also, a good fiberglass repair will just as strong as it was before, if not stronger.
 

Solittle

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 28, 2002
Messages
7,518
Re: transom rebuild help!!!!

I had the transom replaced in my 23' Wellcraft CC about 4 years ago. They pulled the engines and then took the rub rail (rubber bumper) off. Then they cut the inner liner about 4' forward of the transom from gunnel to gunnel and removed it in one piece. That gave complete open access to the transom and the end of the stringers. They then replaced the transom itself from the inside and replaced two knees between the transom and the stringers. That was followed by the reassembly process.<br /><br />In the for what it is worth department - They did not use plywood to replace the transom. I don't know what it is called but it came in 4'x8'x2" sheets and looked like blown fiberglass and green in color. It was relatively light in weight. I was told that this material is used in the off shore race boats. It cost me a couple hundred extra but I will never have to replace a rotten transom again - - at least not on this boat.
 

billh1963

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Messages
78
Re: transom rebuild help!!!!

Look at some of the transom work on www.classicmako.com . Some of the boats over there have different transom configurations that may match yours.<br /><br />Good luck!
 

pursuit2460

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
189
Re: transom rebuild help!!!!

Also the transom has 2 3/4 SS allthread rods from the transom to each stringer. I guess the transom was never ment to hold the engine it has on it now which is a 93 225 johnson. The transon has a 1/4 in.outer layer a piece of plywood not sure how thick another tin layer of glass another piece of wood and finally glass again. Is this enough to hod this engine and if it isnt what would hold it with out the rods. Thanks for the input and the quick replys.
 

santa666

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2003
Messages
98
Re: transom rebuild help!!!!

I had an extremely similar problem: <br /><br />I knew the transom on my 40 year old boat was bad from unsealed tow eyes, and aluminum trim screw holes. I could SEE the water level inside the interior glass skin of the transom! The problem was (is) its got a splash well which limits access- WHAT TO DO? <br /><br />I cut the whole skin off the inside and removed the wood fron the inside. I then removed the transom trim piece and used a LONG screwdriver to seperate the outer skin from the splashwell skin. <br /><br />Much prying and circular saw work later it was a 100% wood free shell. Now on to the replacement. <br /><br />I used the old wood as a pattern and made a double layer of jigsaw puzzle pieces that fit together up and into the whole transom. I ground the glass to fresh resin to ready for the new wood. 2 layers if 3/4 marine grade plywood with OFFSET joints positively slathered with resin snuggled nicely into the previous transoms void. <br /><br />Without a ton of clamping space to draw the new wood together I used the 4 engine mounting bolt holes, the spashwell drain hole and the bilge plug hole as holes to "clamp" the wood together with bolts. 8 other clamps across the top edge of the transom made the skin/wood/splashwell skin stick together. I did however have to drill some holes about a foot above the water line to inject resin into an unexpected void. I read from the forums that this is not a serious concern. <br /><br />New wood CAN be made to fit up and into an enclosed transom WITHOUT cutting up your splashwell or removing the rubrail and decking...<br /><br />Is it stronger? Dunno, I've only seen my boat. Your is probably similar, but who can tell what will work...
 
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