Trim solenoid clicks but wont engage motor

inside0ut

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2013
Messages
67
I actually posted this in the wrong forum, figured I post it in the right one!


Hello all-

I have been troubleshooting my trim assembly. I have a wellcraft 210 classic with the 350 and my trim wont move when I engage the switches on the throttle. I used the troubleshooting guide I found online from a helpful member here ( this is it) and when I jump the connections it is fine. What doesn't work is when I do the solenoid test, the solenoid clicks, but nothing happens. All other test come out fine (110 amp fuse, 10 amp fuse, and jumper the main connections). Could this just be bad up and down solenoids? I always thought that if the solenoid clicks then the contactor is closing so it should engage power...i may be wrong tho.

Any help is appreciated!

Also, if it is the solenoids that are bad, does anyone have a part # so I can make sure to order the right one?
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,344
About an 1 inch or so from the top. clicking solenoids are just that, click but no actual contact. the ends on the bolts get burned a bit and contact is lost.
After you replace the solenoids, rip open the old one and you`ll see the burning of the copper surface area. Sierra 18-5817
 

inside0ut

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2013
Messages
67
OK perfect. I ordered 2 new solenoids.

Another thing I noticed is when I was down there using the jumpers, I asked my son to hit the switches and the solenoids wouldnt click like they would when I jumped them. Is this normal since the solenoids are bad?
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,344
bad coils or a missing ground wire will prevent the solenoid from operating, but you said you did the test and they operated using jumper , but still had no motor action
 

daman4469

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
107
My trim has relays instead of solenoids but I had a similar issue with relays clicking but no motion. Turned out my battery wasn't quite charged enough to kick on the pump motor.
 

inside0ut

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2013
Messages
67
bad coils or a missing ground wire will prevent the solenoid from operating, but you said you did the test and they operated using jumper , but still had no motor action
Ok I was just wondering if it was a concern if when I hit the trim switch that it didnt make the solenoids click. After replacing the solenoids, Ill report back.

Thanks!
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,344
If you followed the test procedure in the manual you would have identified the problem in either the control wires or the solenoids.
First you jump the motor wires .Then verify power at the main buss bar. Jumper from there to the small blue wire and the small green wire. This part
checks the solenoid contacts and operation to supply power to the motor. Clicking of the solenoid does not verify contacts.
If the control handel still does not work, you jump the three wire connector mounted on the pump with a paper clip to verify the fuse, solenoid operation and motor operation.
If good to there but no handel operation, suspect harness wiring, damaged wiring in control box, bad handel switch.
5A-16 http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/14/14a5.pdf
 

inside0ut

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2013
Messages
67
So I replaced the solenoids and the problem was still there. I checked everything again and when I tried to get power to the solenoids across the "power bar" (im not sure what to call it on there. Where 12v comes in and is shared across that bar connecting the 2 solenoids) it wouldn't engage them. I then realized that it had to be the 110 amp fuse coming in from the 12v. I removed it (even though it showed voltage when I tested) and hooked up the 12v line to the bar and the trim switches worked at the helm like they should. I pulled the fuse and its pretty corroded all over so Im pretty sure that that has led to failure.

Now here is a good question. Is that 110 amp fuse necessary or can I ditch it? Its $25 online and I am looking to source it locally, but I cant see that the motor will draw enough to pop that. I would think that motor failure would occur before it hit 110 amps... but that's just in my thinking. It is a hydraulic pump so it is possible that it can pull it, but other then a catastrophic short, I cant see it. Am I wrong?
 

stonyloam

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
5,827
Did you check the fuse with an ohmmeter? Sounds like it may just need to be cleaned up. The pump motor draws a lot of amps, and a malfunction in the motor without a fuse could get things hot enough to cause a fire, and with a tank of oil sitting right there you could have a real problem. A $25 fuse is pretty inexpensive insurance.
 

inside0ut

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2013
Messages
67
Fuse reads open so I'm pretty sure it's bad. I have no problem replacing it... Just curious if I truly need it or if it's a lawyer part for what if possibilities lol.
 
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