Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

[PeninsulaPaul]

As you all know I am new to boating so please forgive if I am using wrong terms.

I have what I believe to be hydraulically operated trim tabs on the back of my boat. See pic

Since I am going outboard and it will just be able to plane (that's the plan) should I go through the expense of having these repaired?

 

[Bob's Garage]

Re: Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

How many and what size outboards. And why? And how?

 

[Shife]

Re: Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

Converting what appears to be a semi-displacement trawler from inboard to outboard propulsion is going to cost way more than what that boat is worth. You would be far better served by installing/repairing the inboard drive setup. It will cost less and the boat will be able to operate as designed. Converting to outboard drive and hoping it will plane opens up a pandora's box of fun (or hell, depending on your perspective) that you will have to sort through.

And yes, keep/repair the tabs.

 

[Tabman]

Re: Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

To go along with Bob's question, the Trim Tabs inboard edges should not be any closer than 8" from the center-line of the outboard's lower unit. That may have an impact on keeping them where they are.

I think they are Boat Leveler brand Trim Tabs judging from the exposed rubber tubing on the transom.

Here is a link to the Insta Trim / Boat Leveler website, http://www.insta-trim.com I could not find a troubleshooting guide there but they work just about the same as Bennett, so it's pretty easy to troubleshoot them.

Here is the wiring for Boat Leveler.

green=Port
Valve white= Starboard
Valve red=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
black on HPU=Ground
red on Helm=Control Positive

I modified Bennett's trouble shooting to work with Boat Leveler, Here is how you can test it.


1.If one side is not operating reverse hydraulic lines on the front of the Hydraulic Power Unit to determine if the malfunction is in HPU or actuator / hydraulic lines. If after reversing the lines symptom shifts to the other side the malfunction may exist in HPU. If the symptom remains on the same side, malfunction may exist with the actuator / hydraulic lines

2. Is the unit receiving a solid 12 volts? Low voltage will some times cause the solenoids to not open preventing the tabs from moving even though the pump motor is running.

3. Conduct the following test:

Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:

Operation=Reaction
Positive 12 volts, Red, and Green=Port trim tab down
Positive 12 volts, Red, and White=Starboard trim tab down
Positive 12 volts, Red, Green, and White=both trim tabs down
Positive 12 volts, Yellow, and Green=Port trim tab up
Positive 12 volts, Yellow, and White=Starboard trim tab up
Positive 12 volts, Yellow, White, and Green=both trim tabs up

If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.

This test may also be done right at the pump by using a hot lead. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.

If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.

I thought this might help you get the Trim Tabs operating.

 

[PeninsulaPaul]

Re: Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

Thanks for the information, as usual you all came through. In answer to one of the questions, why outboards. The original powerplant was stolen from the boat, it was a 350 SBC, the boat was in long term storage in a private marina, they filed bankruptcy and the owner had no recourse. Additional items stolen were the rudder, prop, shaft and everything that connects the motor to the prop. The motor mounts were also damaged in the not so gentle removal of the engine.

I am getting the motors installed and controls converted for a grand total of $3900. If you can find a motor, motor mounts, shaft, rudder, propellar, V Drive and get it installed for $3900 you will be my new best friend. Otherwise I think I still have a good investment.

I'll have the original price $1000, the towing fee to get it to me $1500 and the engines $3900, for a grand total of $6400 for a 36' Whitcraft Coastal Cruiser. The frig works, the toilet works, the tanks are fine, she is watertight and seaworthy. I still think I got a good deal.

 

[Shife]

Re: Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

Thanks for the information, as usual you all came through. In answer to one of the questions, why outboards. The original powerplant was stolen from the boat, it was a 350 SBC, the boat was in long term storage in a private marina, they filed bankruptcy and the owner had no recourse. Additional items stolen were the rudder, prop, shaft and everything that connects the motor to the prop. The motor mounts were also damaged in the not so gentle removal of the engine.

I am getting the motors installed and controls converted for a grand total of $3900. If you can find a motor, motor mounts, shaft, rudder, propellar, V Drive and get it installed for $3900 you will be my new best friend. Otherwise I think I still have a good investment.

I'll have the original price $1000, the towing fee to get it to me $1500 and the engines $3900, for a grand total of $6400 for a 36' Whitcraft Coastal Cruiser. The frig works, the toilet works, the tanks are fine, she is watertight and seaworthy. I still think I got a good deal.

Boat graveyards are literally overflowing with the parts you listed. I wish you the best, but I've just seen too many of these situations go bad in a hurry.

A boat of that vintage is going to require a lot of money, upkeep, and work. Am I understanding correctly that you are paying $25/day for yard fees? Learning how to do these repairs yourself and how to avoid getting stuck with yard fees will go a long way to keeping you happy instead of miserable. You mentioned bottom paint in another thread and stated that it will be in the water long term. The type of anti fouling paint you choose will depend on the environment it will be kept in and intended use. The amount of work you will need to do before even thinking about applying bottom paint will depend on what coatings have previously been applied to the bottom and what kind of shape it is in. You could be looking at a $$$$ bottom job just to get the hull back into good enough shape to apply bottom paint.

Has the boat been surveyed by a professional? This should have been done way before any modifications to the boat and certainly before it goes back in the water. Please don't take this the wrong way, but if you don't know what trim tabs are, you probably don't know how to tell if the hull laminate structure is compromised. A survey can save you from spending cash on what could end up being a dumpster candidate.

 

[PeninsulaPaul]

Re: Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

I welcome any suggestions and appreciate the information. While I am quite the novice at most of this, we all have to start somewhere.

As far as the bottom is concerned, I have the advantage of having a brother in law who works for a local yaht builder as a supervisor in the fiberglass department. It's what he does for a living and he has offered his services to me, which is quite generous. My sister has forgotten more about boats than I will ever know, she is the interior person, she knows RV/Boat electrical, stoves, toilets etc.

I would not have gotten into this project without knowing they were available. It would be far too expensive a venture.

As far as salvage yards are concerned, I realize most of you have them readily available, I live on a peninsula. Everything here is MUCH more expensive than most other locations. By the time you take the 3 hour trip through the mountains to pick up anything, you've bilked any savings with gas money that you might have saved.

I also can't find ANYTHING on the original mechanics of this boat. I have a very trustworthy person working on the engines and adapter. This boat is not going to be used 95% of the time. It's only going to be used as a weekend getaway once MAYBE twice a month. And when it does go out, it's only going to putt around puget sound.

I may be new to all this but I'm not a complete idiot and I did do some homework.

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

Get the trim tabs fixed. They are an assest even when you're not on plane. They can assist in leveling the boat when loads are offset, they can slow your idle speed when you're in a sensitive area, and help you cut through rougher seas a little better.

Remember to put them all the way back up prior to backing down to a slip or shoal. Having them down while doing this will affect the reverse handling chacteristics.

 

[PeninsulaPaul]

Re: Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

Fireman, thanks for the very informative, positive and educational post. It's a welcomed change!

 

[LazyCruiser]

Re: Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

Fireman, thanks for the very informative, positive and educational post. It's a welcomed change!

A welcomed change from what?
Every post in this thread is informative, positive and educational.....

 

[H20Rat]

Re: Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

One other thing to consider that you maybe haven't... Do you have a generator on board? You will absolutely NEED a power source to keep your batteries charged, the outboard(s) will not do that for you, whereas the original inboard engine had a nice big/beefy alternator to charge up batteries.

Personally if it were me I wouldn't give up on an inboard yet. Even if you can't find the original stuff, it shouldn't be too hard to get something else in there. It might not be fast or pretty, but done correctly it should work well.

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

A welcomed change from what?
Every post in this thread is informative, positive and educational.....

I think what he meant by that was simply that he was questioning the need for the trim tabs to be operational and some were questioning his reasoning for switching to O/B engines. He wasn't asking anything about the powerplant(s), only the tabs.

But I'm only guessing.

 

[PeninsulaPaul]

Re: Trim tabs, at least I think they are...

Thanks for the clarification fireman. Sometimes you feel like you have to "bob and weave" on these boards.

Here is my plan, for those of you who are questioning my approach on this project.

I live by a marina, I am a disabled Veteran of both the Army and Navy (Submariner). I live on a limited income. One way I can save a boatload (pardon the pun) of cash is to live aboard my boat. The quickiest and least expensive way to get my boat on the water so I can save money is to put an adapter on it and place twin outboards. I have a local shop that gave me a wonderful deal on the engines.

They are being put on the boat to get me in the water, ONLY! Once I am in the water, I will have extra funds, much more than I have now. With those funds I will start piecing together an outboard engine, prop, rudder etc from salvage yards like some of you suggested. The outboards are a way to get me into the water, that is all. The installation will not permantely alter the boats design or construct, I can STILL install an inboard engine, which is my plan.

Now why didn't I say this in the first place? Because I didn't ask about the inboard/outboards, believe me everyone around here is divided too, I have people who swear I will not go over 5 knots and some say it will go 15. I say while the outboards are on it I am only going to tool around the bay at most and the GREATER majority of the time it will be used as my residence.

Thanks again for all the great information, I appreciated everyone's input.