Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

[Three08]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

Hey buddy nice looking boat you got there! Given all the work you've done, if the transom does need doing I would seriously consider doing it from the outside using something like seacast.
There's 2 ways of using seacast, removing the wood from between the 2 skins from the top like others have said or have a look at how they do the mako transoms, they cut the outside skin then remove the wood then repair and reuse the old outer skin using the seacast pour to bond the old skin back in.
IF the stringers and floor don't need to be done you could leave them untouched using both these methods, but you should check the stringers and floor before you do anything, my floor felt solid almost all over but most of it turned out to be wet and my stringers even looked solid and felt dry after cutting into them for the transom replacement but when I drilled into them they were rotten at the very bottom.
Not to sure how you get that cap off, there are a few designs the pro's will let you know, they may need a picture of the join from the inside to tell. They'll be able to advise if it's safe to use or not too, I think if it rotten at all don't use it but if it's only wet and there's no flex in the transom you MIGHT get away with it for a season but I don't like the idea given the size of the beast hanging off the back.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

I'm not a Pro and by no means an expert on that style of boat, but IMHO she appears to be what I call a "Tub Construction". What I mean by that is the entire interior structure of your boat is molded as on piece. This makes it a bit more difficult to gain access to the transom. In some cases this "Tub" is actually adhered to the stringers making it almost impossible to remove in one piece. I'll let the Pro's or someone with more experience with this particular boat give you the straight dope on it. In any case, with the motor being mounted to a POD extension it is critical that the transom be in excellent condition to sustain the stress that that big motor puts on it.

 

[idonthaveaname]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

Lot's of nice work! Is that extension bracket the original configuration? Did the boat have an I/O at one time? Can you remove the extension bracket and inspect what is behind it?

You can cut away the area I have circled in red and replace the transom with plywood from the inside keeping the out skin intact. You DO NOT want to remove the outer skin if you don't have to. The work you would have to go through to get it perfect would take all season.

 

[hudson20227]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

Lot's of nice work! Is that extension bracket the original configuration? Did the boat have an I/O at one time? Can you remove the extension bracket and inspect what is behind it?

You can cut away the area I have circled in red and replace the transom with plywood from the inside keeping the out skin intact. You DO NOT want to remove the outer skin if you don't have to. The work you would have to go through to get it perfect would take all season.
Thanks... Im not sure if the bracket is orig. or not I bought the boat used and the original photograph I have cuts the back end off so I cant see. I dont really have a problem cutting the portion you have circled out along with the old baitwells I want them gone too and add a oval baitwell behind the leaning post. My only issue is if I take the route, I still can't get to the stringers to inspect/replace... If I gotta go in there I'm fixing it all... Please keep checking and see how much of an ordeal it is to get the top skin off... I just think thats going to be what has to happen...:banghead

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

IDHAN,

Google up that boat and you'll see that is the Original configuration of the boat. What you're suggesting is one way of doing it but that's a lot of significan cosmetic glass work.

 

[hudson20227]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

I'm not a Pro and by no means an expert on that style of boat, but IMHO she appears to be what I call a "Tub Construction". What I mean by that is the entire interior structure of your boat is molded as on piece. This makes it a bit more difficult to gain access to the transom. In some cases this "Tub" is actually adhered to the stringers making it almost impossible to remove in one piece. I'll let the Pro's or someone with more experience with this particular boat give you the straight dope on it. In any case, with the motor being mounted to a POD extension it is critical that the transom be in excellent condition to sustain the stress that that big motor puts on it.

It is all one big heavy piece.... I think there are a couple of places glassed to the stringers at the bow but just not sure where... Ive been looking on the ProLine forum for help but cant find much help... As far as the Pod goes I really want to lift the motor up a notch it's mounted just a hair too low... Another issue... if you can believe it nobody has a motor lift around here.... Brick wall after brick wall... Hopefully you will be able to find someone that knows the skinny on these old ProLines.... Thanks for everything!

 

[Coho Ghost]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

Hudson,

After seeing pics of your boat and, suggesting going the pourable transom core material, I"m backing off on that suggestion. While it is still do-able, you would have to at least cut away the rear 24+" of your cap/deck to get to the transom core, do the transom and then glass everything back together and make it look like it was never cut into. Come to think of it, you will to cut away everything anyway if you do it with wood. In any event, as already stated above, do not cut away the outer skin if at all possible to do the repair.

FWIW
Coho Ghost

 

[idonthaveaname]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

Google up that boat and you'll see that is the Original configuration of the boat. What you're suggesting is one way of doing it but that's a lot of significan cosmetic glass work.

Agreed. That config was all I could find in that year, but a lot of guys add those on, especially with older boats, hence the question. ;-) I agree it's significant work, but if the top does not remove there isn't much choice. Bottom line is all of this "stuff" is significant. I watched SSTV the other day and they did a very similar transom replacement.

 

[hudson20227]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

Yeah, I see. and yes it is... I dont know how else to attack it though. If I just replace the transom I'm still stuck worried about the stringers and bilge area. Really my only concern is getting the top skin off. Once I get past that I'll be fine.

 

[hudson20227]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

I watched SSTV the other day and they did a very similar transom replacement.

I am going to go back and see if I find the episode.... I'm at a loss fellas. If I attack this issue from the outside of the transom I am going to need some serious help... This is the question I have. I installed the teak swim platform on the back Port side of the transom. When I predirlled the whole Instead of being covered in saw dust or dry wood trimmings it was a milky colored paste... Is there a way to adaquately test other parts of the transom to see what is actually going on? The guy I bought the boat from said he had the transom replaced... In the sanding and painting process I did see what appeared to be fresh glass work... which is why I didnt question him. So how do I test other places in the transom?

 

[hudson20227]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

Hudson,

After seeing pics of your boat and, suggesting going the pourable transom core material, I"m backing off on that suggestion. While it is still do-able, you would have to at least cut away the rear 24+" of your cap/deck to get to the transom core, do the transom and then glass everything back together and make it look like it was never cut into. Come to think of it, you will to cut away everything anyway if you do it with wood. In any event, as already stated above, do not cut away the outer skin if at all possible to do the repair.

FWIW
Coho Ghost

So attack it from the inside and instead of trying to take the top deck off just cut it all out and glass it back? I could do that and get those unwanted boxes off in the process... I would need some serious guidance through this though...

 

[idonthaveaname]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

"it was a milky colored paste" oh boy. :facepalm:

You can drill other areas of the transom. Actually, you can drill holes all over the place. You will just have to cover them up, so have at it. A milky colored paste dictates that water is sitting there...at least to me. I mean, wood rots and is damp, but milky is a whole other story. The important thing to understand is how your boat is built and maybe Proline can provide some information. It's like WOD said, "In some cases this "Tub" is actually adhered to the stringers making it almost impossible to remove in one piece."

 

[hudson20227]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

I understand... I just sent a couple of old school guys from proline an email... Thanks for all of the input! I will need more as I go along. Even if just for moral support and quick decission making...

 

[oops!]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

lets just hang on here for a minit before we go thru the mental hoops of a full gut.

ok.....you need to do core samples of the transom. (does it flex?)
have someone drive your truck with the boat attached while u follow behind.
have them drive over some good speed bumps. you will know if you see flex.

to take the core samples.....get out the 5200 and start drilling from the inside. drill around where your fuel filter is.
the water drips on the glass work there are not good.

ok.....

the milky white stuff.....what did it feel like between your fingers?.....was it coarse with a fiberglass kinda feeling?...or was it cream?
this is an indication of a composite transom. but i dont like the fact that there is water in there.

you have 2 choices if you do the transom......cut the back inner liner.......(the tub is called a liner) or pull the cap.
taking to outside skin off is never a good idea. McCraney did it due to a unique situation, and then only with alot of consultation.

to pull the liner....you will need to remove the rub rail.....and start prying up. the foam inside the hull will try and act like a glue and keep the cap down.
it will seperate....

 

[hudson20227]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

lets just hang on here for a minit before we go thru the mental hoops of a full gut.

I took a few more drill samples... None came out milky like the first... two cam out with a drop of moisture as I removed the bit. And the others came out like a good quality wood that was a little humid. I toog samples from about six locations. Unfortunatly I took them from the outside and drilled deep... didnt know any better... I do have some sst rod that will fit the hole so I was planning on if I didnt have to replace the transom I would cote the rod with 2500 an place it through the transom and Interlux epoxy over it... I will knock around with a mallot and check for flex...

 

[Three08]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

I wouldn't use the rod, I'd seal it with thickened resin, steel can expand and contract in the hot and cold weather and can cause problems especially if it's a composite transom.

I know it looks like you don't need to replace it now but I still stand by what I said before about doing it from the outside in this case, I know a lot of people here don't like it but I've seen it done many times, by both amateurs and pro's, I even saw one done by a pro with twin 250's mounded on a bracket it never showed any signs of weakness. If you use the method they use with the mako's you would only have to fare a flat transom, if you cut the floor when it doesn't need cutting on a boat like that it's going to take more work to fare and blend the deck than the outside transom skin would of with all those corners. Given he's resprayed the whole boat and got it looking nice inside it would be crazy to tear that all up when there are ways of leaving all that work in tact, and as others have said you can do it from the top to, if it's accessible that would give you the least amount of faring work in the end and would be the better option.

edit
Just thinking out loud here, I just reread the post and now I'm wondering if that milky paste could be a composite transom that hasn't properly cured in that one spot? Oh what size drills did you use for the sample, if there just small, use oops!'s super thickened resin.

 

[oops!]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

the milky paste could be deteriorated composite board....something like coosa.

as for doing it from the out side.....the measurements mush be exact.....i mean exact....or the transom will not be squair with the boat.
it is also possible that the transom rake is off when you do it that way....this will cause porpus.

 

[hudson20227]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

Oh what size drills did you use for the sample, if there just small, use oops!'s super thickened resin.

I used a very small bit. cant remember the size but it was small. The transom has zero flex with a johnson 225 and me 200 lbs. on the jack plate bouncing it doesnt flex at all... I have my machanic coming to take the motor off for me and I am going to take the jack plate off and check where the larger bolts were and see what it looks like. Just go from there I guess. I dont want to jump the gun so to speak but at the same time I want it safe.

 

[idonthaveaname]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

"lets just hang on here for a minit before we go thru the mental hoops of a full gut."

Just gotta say oops, I like the way you talk.


Tell ya what hudson20227, you have oops on your tail now! He give you some great advice. And I know YD and WOD are going to jump in. Ya gotta love this place. Good luck with the boat...she's a beauty.

 

[hudson20227]

Re: Unanswered questions.... I'll give it one more try.

"lets just hang on here for a minit before we go thru the mental hoops of a full gut."

Just gotta say oops, I like the way you talk.


Tell ya what hudson20227, you have oops on your tail now! He give you some great advice. And I know YD and WOD are going to jump in. Ya gotta love this place. Good luck with the boat...she's a beauty.

Thanks man! I really appreciate it! I do there is a ton of great information on this forum and when you get these guys focused on a project the really give it all they got...