Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

[HVAC Cruiser]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Hey Steve,
Wow sorry your having such a tough time with it, I feel terrible, especially seeing I think I'm the one to suggest it. Are the roller setups piviting properly on the U bolts? it should level itself especially with a single 2x. Question, if you take a 2x by itself and put it against the hull with your hands, does it lay flat?

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Yeah bill, it lays flat. My thought is that with the engine, deck, stringers, etc. all removed, there is a good deal more weight bow forward. I think that with dual sets of rollers it puts much weight on the forward ones and this binds the board. I'm in the process of refitting now. I'll keep you posted.

Btw, i liked the idea of yours and was leaning that way myself. I'll get it!

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Well, ok, I cut the 2 x 8 behind the forward roller set. Blocked it back up
Put the boards back underneath. What I found is all the weight rests on those front rollers. There is no load bearing to speak of on the back ones. Its still got a twist in it. Seems more on the starboard side. Sigh. So Now what? Abandon the roller idea completely? I'm not sure what to do next.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Well, looks like I'm going to have to build a bunk system under the trailer. The Rollers just seem to be in the wrong places, too much weight forward at the bow. So, now i have to figure out how to do this. Do you start at the outside surface and work toward the middle, or opposite of this. Seems maybe starting along the keel and working out would be good. What is the procedure. Never done this before.

 

[redfury]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

well, the thing with bunk trailers is that the boards themselves do the supporting more than the places that the bunks attach to the trailer. The boards in your picture are getting a lot of extra support because of the way they are laying across the roller structure.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Progress update. Borrowed some jack stands from John (jcercsa). Thanks!! Blocked up the trailer on cinder blocks to take leaf springs out of equation. Got the boards in place for the outermost portion of the bottom of the hull. Need to get the supports for them plumbed and the boat shifted some so I need to figure a way to move the back end over just a bit. Maybe a floor jack to lift and roll it where i need it. More tomorrow and some pictures if all goes well.

 

[HVAC Cruiser]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Hey Steve,
I have to apologize, life this week has gotten the better of me. I see you got jacks from John, good deal. I would remove the rollers, set up the bunks in the stress areas, support front middle and back after its conformed. I would support front and back, then add middle just relieving a little of the pressure. Wait for others to chime in for they might know better than I


Regards
Bill

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Bill: No need to apologize! i understand completely.

I'm doing ok with it, kinda like you said. bracing front to mid ships (the trailer is a monster bear to work under) then I'll get the bow with some support. It's pretty strong under the bow. Forward deck is in place, plus cap on and windshield. my main concern is the first 10 to 12 feet. I'll post pics when I get some progress. It's a slow go working alone and getting around that trailer. Plus, I'm not that smart, so i've had to do a couple things over. Sigh. Ok, back at it.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Ok, been plugging along on building a crib with bunks under the trailer. man, its been slow going. Getting in and out from under the trailer to make adjustments, raise and lower the boat, check level, and frame it up. Don't look like much, but here it is.

Stern First:

Then the harder part, under the trailer:

The front was easy. Just ran dimensional lumber accross the rollers on the trailer. No pic of that yet.

Only one problem. My old nemesis. That space!!! Man, cant get rid of:

I outlined it in red. Its much less pronounced now. I think i've figured it out. There is a slight hook, or dent from, probably, a 35 plus year life on a roller trailer. its about an 1/8th inch gap. Unsupported for about 3 feet. The back of that support board is right under the transom junction. It's bridging between there and the hull forward.

So i need to know how to deal with this going forward. the way i see it I have a couple options.

1. I could use a soft foam or something to fill that space and help support the hull for installing the stringers and transom.

2. I could move that support plank forward, off the hull/transom junction and let the boat form to it.

3. I could brace under the bridged area, however, there might not be enough board flex without changing the boat plane though. The span is 80 inches between supports. The bridge area only a couple three feet.

4. I could leave it and fix it when I get to exterior hull work. Build as is.

Let me know your thoughts please........

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

You can screw the hull to the board, if you screw through the top don't glass over the screw heads or you can't get them out. If you go through the bottom side they can be taken out easily. Either way just make sure you stiffen the board so the hull flexes and not the board.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

You can screw the hull to the board, if you screw through the top don't glass over the screw heads or you can't get them out. If you go through the bottom side they can be taken out easily. Either way just make sure you stiffen the board so the hull flexes and not the board.

Ondarvr, good to hear from you on this. Was hoping you would drop in.

ok..............

oh man. something about putting holes in the hull there

Alright, talk to me some more on this. I understand about not flexing the board, since i want the hull to conform to the shape of the board. I can do that by adding some more two by.

Then, Screwing up through the board and through the hull. What kind of spacing are we talking about on the screws? then, how do you glass this? Poke the screw heads through the glass and saturate the cloth?

More questions: How do I know I've gone low enough on the hull (toward the keel) Is this board properly placed for this? Do I need to add another plank on the keel side of the existing board?

Is my other option to put the stringers, transom and deck in and then fair the bottom until this depression is gone?

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Every job is a little different, but stiffen the board with whatever you have, another 2X4 or 2X6 on edge works well. As far as where to put them and how many....enough to make it true again and where ever they need to be.

Depending on how stiff the hull is, you may just be able to use screws, but sometimes you need to use nuts with bolts.

If the hull is very stiff you may need to put a support on the inside, something like a stringer to hold the shape after you glass it, but normally you don't need to.

Glass around the screws or bolts so they can be removed if possible, but sometimes they get left in place and you just grind them down so they're out of the way and can be glassed over.

If its not perfect you can fair it from the outside too, just do as much as possible in getting it straight first.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Thanks again for your expertise, Ondarvr.

Ok, I think i got this. Today i have a friend coming over and I'll have him stand on the areas in question and see if they comes down to the board. If they do, then i'll work on stiffening the boards and getting them bolted up.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Ondarvr, it takes two men (about 400 pounds) to get the hull to press down to that plank. I'm not sure screws or bolts are going to get it to conform easily. Thoughts?

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Ondarvr, it takes two men (about 400 pounds) to get the hull to press down to that plank. I'm not sure screws or bolts are going to get it to conform easily. Thoughts?

Get bigger friends?

About the only thing you can do is get as much out as possible, you may need to use metal angle stock, but the bolts will pull it down easily.

After that you just start filling it.

 

[HVAC Cruiser]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Get bigger friends?

LOL
Someone had told me, never tried it though that if you add some heat it will re-conform easier, kinda like softening it and relieve the stress. I never tried it but ontheriver could probably add to the suggestion

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Good suggestion.

Heat can help, it may be difficult to heat a large enough area, but a couple of heat lamps may do it, or at least make it easier.

 

[HVAC Cruiser]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Thanks ondarvr, but I can't take credit for it I found the post it was Jonesg that suggested it it to me

Fiberglass takes on a bend by applying pressure over time, then if you glass the area it locks it in.

You can take it out by applying heat and pressure, it WILL bend back unless theres a stringer right on top of it, wood don't bend for beans like glass can.

I used to help unpack glasswork from containers shipped from China, they were often bent and buckled but leaving them against a radiator all day then applying pressure as they cooled fixed them.

Hey Steve, I would back it up on the inside with a piece of angle iron bolted straight through the wood to make a clamp, then use some heat lamps as ondarvr suggested and slowly draw it down back into shape

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Hay Steve , man your having fun Now !!! lol that a tuffy , I would go for the heat that going to take some of it and hit it from the out side !!! I got a lamp thats on a timer !!! lol John

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Bill: That sounds good, but according to ondarvr, I need to draw it and then glass it to hold the shape. Just getting it there only solves part of the problem.
I put a couple bolts through, like ondarvr said and it draws it down nicely......Think I should put heat on it while its drawn, then let it cool? I think it will spring again. I don't really know though. I'm spacing the bolts 10 inches apart so I can glass strips between them, then pull the bolts and reglass that area. i'm not sure about the area right at the transom though. Maybe heat there? Heck, I don't know. This is kind of trial and error.

John: How's vacation going???? Having fun? I'm working on it.....man, i can not tell you how freaking sick and tired I am of wiggling under that trailer over and over!! I want to get back to working on the inside.