US Composits Foam Q's

drewmitch44

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Im about to order some foam from them. They seem to have the best prices. Any feedback on the quality of their foam? How about their shipping and service? Thanks a lot guys any help would be apreciated! Also if you know of any other places that offer better deals please let me know! I am thinking about ordering their 2lb. density, 2 cubic feet deal for $19.75 just to see how much that will do. It says that you can use it in several layers. Also i am reading about the temprature in which you are supposed to use it and it says between 75 and 80 degrees. well that going to be hard to do here cause im using heaters in a garage. I guess i can rent heaters if it will allow me to use less foam at a higher temp. Their site says that if its not warm enough you will have to use more foam to get the same affect. Thanks guys!!!
 

jcsercsa

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

Hi , I would also like to know , I will be ready for foam here in a couple weeks !!! I hope !!!! lol John
 

BillP

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

How many cu ft are you needing? 2 cu ft is only the space of 15 gallons...which is a fraction of how much space is under a typical trailer boat floor.
 

drewmitch44

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

I dont know the cubic feet i need. Im hoping to get an idea from what i order how much more i will need. Really im hoping someone has a cheaper place to get supplies from as im on a pretty tight budget on the project. Thanks!
 

SgtMaj

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

2lb density isn't very dense either. Typically you would want to use 4lb, but especially if you have an under deck gas tank, as the higher density will stand up much better to chemicals and solvents.

However, if you're certain it won't be interacting with any solvents, then you can get the 3lb or even the 2lb if you really want.

I would recommend at least 20 cu feet. Foam is like steak and beer... there just isn't really a point where you can say that's too much. :D

By the way, USC is just fine to order it from. Their prices are quite decent and they have a good product.
 

boatguy19

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Feb 15, 2004
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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

did my boat last year, theres nothing i did not do to it. as for the foam us composites is the cheapest i found anywhere, there service is great and shipped right away with no problems at all. now as far as foam goes i have a 20 ft bowrider it took two kits to do it. the two lb foam is all you need thats what they put in it at the factory no need for the four lb foam. i will tell you that the hotter you get the boat the better off you will be it goes farther,your better off trying to fill it in one shot instead of a little at a time. when you have to go back and do it again you wind up wasting alot if it over flows a little dont worry about that its easy to cut through with a hand saw.
 

drewmitch44

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

hey boat guy 2 kits of what? What ammount is a kit you are talking about? Thanks for all that info on the pour also!!
 

boatguy19

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

one kit consist of 2 one gal cans they have to be mixed together to activate, you decide how much you want to mix at a time. if you cant get the boat hot enough it wont expand that much 80degres is ideal, my cavities were about 22 long by a foot wide by about 10 inch deep i filled them about one half to two thirds high of foam and it work out very well. some places were a little high and some were a little low, but i could only get the temp up to about 70 degrees, also go get a couple of paint stirers you stick in a drill to mix with it will go alot faster than stirring by hand get atleast two of them.you have about 10 to 15 seconds after its mixed to start pouring its very easy to do. i think i started with about half a quart in the begining, get some of those half gallon plastic buckets with measurements on them at home cheapo. hope this info helps you out somewhat.
 

watermellonI

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Jun 23, 2007
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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

I just redid mine with 2lb it was really amazing to work with very sticky though, don t get it on anything you want to keep its difficult to get off,
usually best to wait till it cures for cleanup. DONT GET IT ON YOUR HANDS, USE HEAVY GLOVES, I had to re order think I used about six glns in all, that was enough to do the aft section of my boat, I replaced wooden boxes in the back with straight foam, then put two layers glass over it, stuff is strong.
Best to use at 80 degrees. you don t get the expansion you may need in cooler temps., you can layer it if necessary only takes an hour or so to cure.
and its easily molded once cured with a sander.

I also got my resin and glass from them, they were very helpful, I noticed a difference in the resin I got from some other places, US was nice cause it was thinner and absorbed into the glass quicker.

Mix the foam in small batches to start, and have someone help you, I had someone had me the B stuff after I was in the boat, with the A stuff in the bucket ready to go.

Be ready to pour it as soon as you start stirring, when you see it start in the container get it poured, the time will vary depending on the temp.

Best to take a small amount and do a little test, so you know how long it takes to start foaming.
The stuff is really cool once you get used to working with it
 

BillP

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

You can heat the foam cans before mixing to help the temp deal. When pouring into the hull (especially if though holes in the deck) be aware that the liquid doesn't always expand evenly. When it starts expanding it also gets too thick to continure running down the hull and can make a concentrated area that expands way too big. I cannot emphasize this enough...it happened to me the first time I did foam with someone. We estimated the amount, poured it between the exposed stringers (and figured it would run back into the hard to get areas) and quickly placed a section of the floor over it. Thinking it would level the foam while it expanded, three of us stood on the floor but it raised us up like we were nothing. Had the floor been glassed down boat parts would have busted.
 

jcsercsa

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

HI all . hay BILLP , how far were your holes apart when you poured in the foam??? I was planning on a lot of small holes do you think that will help?? thanks John
 

boatguy19

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

do not drill holes in the floor and try to pour it in, you will pop the floor right off the stringers and you will not be a happy camper at all. thats the way the factory does it but they have it down to a science and is done by computer.
 

BillP

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

HI all . hay BILLP , how far were your holes apart when you poured in the foam??? I was planning on a lot of small holes do you think that will help?? thanks John

We didn't have holes and this was a new boat hull still sitting in the mold. The aft and fwd parts of the deck were already glassed down. The center section of the floor was cut, fit and removed while we poured the foam. Then we quickly put the floor back in with hopes that it would contain the foam and make it level. It didn't run far engough back and concentrated under the center section. It raised the floor about 6-8" with three of us standing on top.

Boatguy19 knows exactly what I'm talking about. If you pour too much at once it WILL bust your boat...do NOT bank on it spreading out evenly before it gets too thick to do anything but stay in one place and expand. Pour a little at a time and watch each batch to see how you are doing...that's the way I'd do it through holes.

Like bg19 says, most mfgs have foaming down to a science...but most spray the foam in before decks are set...and watch it expand as they spray.

bp
 

Joe_the_boatman

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

Really im hoping someone has a cheaper place to get supplies from as im on a pretty tight budget on the project. Thanks!

I've heard of people using the pink 4'X8' sheets of house insulation for floatation. It's cheap, and closed cell (or is the blue the stuff that's closed cell??? might want to research that).

Anyhow, that's what I'd be buying if I had to replace the factory styrofoam in my boat, but I think mine's OK.

A lot of people love the pourable foam and are happy with its performance. For me, looks too messy, too expensive (comparively), and what happens if it ever does take on water? (which, I know, it's designed not to, but just think of the mess it is to remove that stuff)
 

drewmitch44

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

what 4' by 8' sheets are you talking about?? I work at bLowes and they have a lot of building materials which im sure are what you are talking about. I took a piece of foam that looks like garage door stuff as its about 2" thick and put it in a bucket of water and have had it submerged about 3 weeks now and it has not let any water in. I have a postal scale that i weighed the chunk with before i submerged it. Every week i get it out and weigh it after waving it to get serfice water off it and so far it has not retained any weight(water) into the core of the sample that im using. It was a blue sheet like about 4' by 8'. It had a ding in the corner and they were breaking it up to throw away cause it was "un-sellable" with the ding. So i took a piece to test it in water to see it it would absorb any. So far it has not! Its been dead center of a full 5 gallon bucket. There has to be pressure on it from water wanting in but it has not gained any weight at all. If thats a feesable option i might explore it and cut pieces like this and use that instead of pourable. Anyone have any opinions on that? And as far as pourable stuff ive been reserching all over and "USComposits" is the cheapest by far. There was a guy on ebay that sold some at a "buy it now" price that was really cheap but it went in like 30 min and i didnt get a chance to bid cause i was on my cell phone when i saw the auction. It was 2, 5 gallon buckets of it and he sold it for 25 bucks!!! it was the 4lb type that was from USComposits!
 

pd0395

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Oct 25, 2007
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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

Hi All:
Helped my son pour foam into his 19' Bow Rider a couple months ago. The foam was easy to work with but all the advice here is good. Might just add that when we did his, he prepared several pieces of plywood to put over the top temporarily while the foam set. This allowed the foam to rise to the correct height and he needed to do very little trimming. He poured in sections. The key is to wrap the plywood pieces in plastic because the foam will not stick to the plastic, if you do not wrap in plastic it will stick to the wood and you will tear out big chunks when you try to remove it.
Good luck.
 

Joe_the_boatman

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

what 4' by 8' sheets are you talking about?? .....

It was a blue sheet like about 4' by 8'. It had a ding in the corner and they were breaking it up to throw away cause it was "un-sellable" with the ding.


Yep, that's the stuff I had in mind. Again, I have no experience using it. I've just heard of others using it, and it made sense to me. As long as it's closed cell, not open, it shouldn't absorb any water.

The factory floatation in my Starcraft was (is) sheets of styrofoam, cut into strips underneath the floor. Using this blue stuff would be similar to the factory floatation.
 

jdcoombs

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Aug 12, 2007
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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

I think the foam board (XEPS) would be great for non-absorption of water, but if gasoline ever gets to it in any amount, it dissolves.
 

croSSed

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Re: US Composits Foam Q's

"I would recommend at least 20 cu feet. Foam is like steak and beer... there just isn't really a point where you can say that's too much."

That is unless you put so much foam in under your floor that as it expands it pops your floor, or the chemical reaction gets so hot that it starts to melt stuff, like polyester. I almost had my floor pop when I poured in foam, and it got hot enough that laying on it (I was trying to keep the floor from completely popping up) it felt like I was laying on a heated floor. It's all good now, though, and I'm certain that there is no voids under there now.

TG
 
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