Re: Vacuum on carbs 1 & 2 a lot more than 3... What gives?
CharlieB, you really are the man!!! lol... It is the trigger that's bad! Here is the only way I found it though... When testing the fire like you said on each cylinder I did the following:
Rotated the engine with all spark plugs removed except one of course (Because that's a given where TDC is if the marker is set correctly) and then marked the flywheel with a black permanent marker for each cylinder when they were at top dead center. BUT, I didn't just mark a mark only on the flywheel, I also wrote in marker which cylinder that was supposed to be firing on that mark on top of the flywheel. That is what saved me on this one!!!
I then put all spark plugs in and fired it up. After I warmed it up at around 1,100 rpms for 5 minutes or so I brought the idle down around 900 rpms so it was easy to start and I checked to see where cylinder one was firing off at. It was around 8 degrees BTDC at the idle I had going. I then set my timing light to 8 degrees BTDC so the light would flash showing me 0 degrees, or TDC for every cylinder, hence my mark for each one.
I then pulled the clip of the timing light from cylinder 1 and placed it on cylinder 2 with the gun still set at 8 degrees BTDC and of course my mark I had written for cylinder 2 showed up perfectly as well as the #2 I had written on top of the flywheel right by the mark.
I repeated this step from cylinders 1-4 with out a problem. Here is where it gets interesting though.
Cylinder 5.... With the light connected and set at 8 degrees BTDC I started the motor with no touch of the throttle as I had done three times before already and what do I see? A timing mark I had written... Good sign maybe until I pointed to the top of the flywheel only to see the #6 I had written flashing at me... I first thought I had clipped the wrong wire. NOT SO!
Cylinder 6.... You guessed it! Timing mark flashing at me and the #5 I had written on the flywheel shooting back at me! These two cylinders were working against each other the whole time and firing nearly 180 degrees out from where they should be! My next thought was maybe somehow I wired the powerpacks wrong in some way. Felt like an idiot for a few minutes until I realized the wiring in my manual and the wiring on my motor were exact... Next thought was, "Well, these Clymers manuals have been know to have errors in them and maybe I followed the error." Not so either... I figured I would pull the pulse wires from the coils to the powerpacks and swap 5 and 6 cylinders to test them. #5 cylinder should be wired to the top powerpack and cylinder 6 should be wired to the lower powerpack. In all of my work on this thing I never have wrapped any of these wires in electrical tape. What was on them was there before I bought the boat. I couldn't get the wires for 5 or 6 either one to reach the designated spots on either powerpack without unwrapping electrical tape. That was my final clue that told me that this was nothing I had done but instead a crewed up trigger from the factory of CDI Electronics... Months of work and problem solving and this is what it turns out to be. A bad brand new trigger. Needless to say they will be hearing from me! And I would have not known this had it not been for CharlieB and the fact that I put numbers on top of the flywheel to designate which cylinder I was firing on. Otherwise I would have seen my timing mark and just thought, "It must be right, because there is the mark!" All the while it's off 180 degrees with another cylinder...
I swapped the wiring around like I said just to check it and it idles great now! Carb three works like it should. Screw the idle adjustment in to far and it will kill the motor just as carbs 1 and 2 will. The vacuum from this carb is just as good as 1 and now. Will test it out ina couple days on the water and not on muffs to finalize, but I know it is fixed now. Lol, can't have two cylinders firing 180 degrees off and expect to have any power! Thanks all, and especially thank you CharlieB!!!!!!
