Velvo penta does on water

siego99344

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Good afternoon,
I just rebuilt the carb and gonna see how it does on the water but before I put it in water I decided to change spark plugs on it. My question to any does anyone no the correct gap size for this motor? I tried to copy the old spark plug gap sizes but they range from .010 - .035. They are autolite 145 which come pre gapped to .040. I wouldn’t no which gap to use. Anyone have any idea?
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,...... .040" would no doubt work, but I believe the spec is .035"
 

siego99344

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May 8, 2014
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Am sorry I just realized that it’s a 1979 volvo penta 200C if that makes a difference
 

siego99344

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Okay thank you so would the autolite 145 which is preset to .040 work or should I knock it down to .035
 

siego99344

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Good morning mates,
Another question before I came to this forum I asked a marineboaring forum I forget what it was called but they said the gap was .025 now so I do what this forum says or what they say that’s a big gap diff in my opinion. Thank you fellow boaters
 

alldodge

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We're using a manual and old guys with years on us. What are they using?
 

Lou C

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OK your engine will run on land with no load on it, but the minute that you put a load on it (even just putting it into gear in the water puts a load on the engine) it dies. This suggests carb/fuel delivery problems. When you rebuilt the carb how did it look inside? Were all the jets blown out, to make sure there were no clogged jets, and same with the air bleeds? Also marine inboard engines have a check valve called an anti siphon valve on the gas tank. These are a safety device that prevents fuel from siphoning out of the tank if the fuel line to the fuel filter/pump leaks. If they get corroded or clogged with debris that same problem can happen. If your points are set right (use the dwell meter) you cap & rotor are good, high tension leads as well (check for resistance against specs) timing is set properly then turn back to the fuel system. Exhaust restrictions can cause trouble too but fuel delivery problems are very common on old boats. Fuel pump, fuel filters, anti siphon, fuel tank vent. All should be checked.
One last thing if that is a points distributor it probably has mechanical advance unit under the point mounting plate. This is a pair of weights that move out under centrifugal force to advance the timing as you increase RPM. There are also springs that pull them back in as the engine slows down. These can be frozen up due to corrosion especially on a boat that sat for years. I have a Prestolite distributor just like that and there is a wick in the distributor shaft that you can see when you remove the rotor. I just put 2 drops of motor oil on that wick each season that is all it takes to keep it working. You may have to remove the point plate to make sure the weights move freely and the springs that retain them aren't broken.
A properly maintained points distributor with mechanical advance is definitely worth keeping as long as you don't mind maintaining it. No electronic mystery boxes to fail, or be un-available. A spare set of points and condenser and you can be back on the water in an hour or less.
 
Last edited:

siego99344

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 8, 2014
Messages
150
OK your engine will run on land with no load on it, but the minute that you put a load on it (even just putting it into gear in the water puts a load on the engine) it dies. This suggests carb/fuel delivery problems. When you rebuilt the carb how did it look inside? Were all the jets blown out, to make sure there were no clogged jets, and same with the air bleeds? Also marine inboard engines have a check valve called an anti siphon valve on the gas tank. These are a safety device that prevents fuel from siphoning out of the tank if the fuel line to the fuel filter/pump leaks. If they get corroded or clogged with debris that same problem can happen. If your points are set right (use the dwell meter) you cap & rotor are good, high tension leads as well (check for resistance against specs) timing is set properly then turn back to the fuel system. Exhaust restrictions can cause trouble too but fuel delivery problems are very common on old boats. Fuel pump, fuel filters, anti siphon, fuel tank vent. All should be checked.
I had a friend rebuild it and he said the jets where full of debris little gunk parts he cleaned it completely all I have to clean is the flame resistor but I haven’t put it back into water just yet was changing spark plugs and I saw that each spark plug was a different gap size
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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13,030
If the carb was full of gunk, I would be surprised if the fuel tank doesn't need to be cleaned out. You should install a cannister style water separating fuel filter and a new anti siphon valve, at a minimum. I thought I saw a small cannister style filter on the starboard side of the engine, did you change that? Modern engine use much larger ones, but at least change it and inspect the gas inside. I dump the gas out of mine each season and inspect it before putting the boat in the water....
gas from boat 2020.JPG
 

siego99344

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If the carb was full of gunk, I would be surprised if the fuel tank doesn't need to be cleaned out. You should install a cannister style water separating fuel filter and a new anti siphon valve, at a minimum.
I believe the tank sat for a few years without any fuel in it. It does have a fuel filter port 2 of them actually that we did replace. But I would do whatever to keep gunk going into carb and system
 

Lou C

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What you can do is very carefully, remove the 5 bolts/nuts that hold the fuel gauge sending unit in place , lift it out and look inside the tank with a bright flashlight, you will see if there is crud in the bottom of the tank. If so it is best to get it professionally cleaned to avoid chronic fuel system problems. If you wind up doing this pick up a new gasket for the sending unit first. Crud/water in the tank is a very common problem on older boats....
 

siego99344

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What you can do is very carefully, remove the 5 bolts/nuts that hold the fuel gauge sending unit in place , lift it out and look inside the tank with a bright flashlight, you will see if there is crud in the bottom of the tank. If so it is best to get it professionally cleaned to avoid chronic fuel system problems. If you wind up doing this pick up a new gasket for the sending unit first. Crud/water in the tank is a very common problem on older boats....
I need a new sending unit since the gas gage is not reading anything. So my plans are to change it out reguardless and I can look inside tank after replacing sending unit. But I remember looking into tank when I was diagnosing the sending unit it didn’t look to bad
 

siego99344

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May 8, 2014
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Everything turn on is running smoothly only thing I see is white smoke coming from tail pipe other than that it’s running I believe like it suppose to
 
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