VIP Vindicator Restoration

[Dzrtcj7]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Some more pictures all buffed out. Just need to get it waxed. I'm really happy with how it came out.

 

[Dzrtcj7]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

I got it on the water today with the new prop! New prop is smooth as silk. Topped out around 55 mph. I have some tune up work to do on the engine, but all in all it was running great.

Here are a few more pictures of the project:

 

[MTribe08]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Really came out nice! I'm about to tackle my hull as well. I picked up some 3m heavy duty compound and 3m restore/wax today. We'll see how that does before bredking out the paper.

Is the boat solid otherwise? Solid deck/stringers?

Great looking rig!

 

[Spinnaker]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Great job on a beautiful craft. If I may say, I'd take those K-numbers off and have custom letters cut.
Question about the transom exhaust outlets. Are they above or below the waterline? Can someone tell me if they can be installed below the waterline?

 

[osborn159]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

hello, i think that is one fine vessel you have there!!!, quite a transformation, lotta elbow grease! i like it and my 2cent on the interior red/white always liked the combo. enjoy her, again nice work, good luck.
D

 

[Dzrtcj7]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Thank you guys for all the great comments and encouragement. The hard work has definitely paid off! I'll be proud to be showing off the original gelcoat

To answer your questions:

Fortunately everything in the boat is solid. I've checked the transom, stringers and floor, there is no soft wood to be found ... luck me! That is one nice thing about buying an Eastern Washington boat. Another bonus is, the engine AND outdrive only have 80 hrs on them after being completely rebuilt

For the hull numbers, I think I'm going to get custom script, black with reflective silver outline. I agree, the numbers that are on it are hideous, lol.

The exhaust are well below the water line. The water actually comes right to the bottom of the swim step while sitting still. It's a really nice setup because it is quiet while idling around, but as soon as you are on plane you have full open exhaust. It is nice and quiet in the boat, but loud as hell to anyone in the vicinity. Thus, I think the boat is going to be named "Ruckus". This is the stock exhaust arrangement.

Here is my plan for the interior. I think I'm going to mimic it exactly (Reinell 240 LS):

 

[benjh1028]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Best gelcoat restoration I've seen yet. You should be proud!

Ben

 

[Dzrtcj7]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Thank you very much! It's a good feeling when some hard work pays off.

 

[MTribe08]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Thank you very much! It's a good feeling when some hard work pays off.

Thanks to you, I made an attempt and my first wet sand today. I guess I was just hesitant to sand my surface not really knowing what I was doing. I went at it with wet 600 and 800, then heavy duty compound, and finally a cleaner wax..I could just feel the sandpaper taking off the oxidation, leaving a nice smooth finish to buff out..I'm really happy with it so far. But I went through a polishing bonnet..need to get another one..should I get a good foam pad too? I like what the bonnet has done so far.

You can see in the first picture..where I wet sanding and buffed and where I stopped...turning out pretty good.

 

[Dzrtcj7]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Thanks to you, I made an attempt and my first wet sand today. I guess I was just hesitant to sand my surface not really knowing what I was doing. I went at it with wet 600 and 800, then heavy duty compound, and finally a cleaner wax..I could just feel the sandpaper taking off the oxidation, leaving a nice smooth finish to buff out..I'm really happy with it so far. But I went through a polishing bonnet..need to get another one..should I get a good foam pad too? I like what the bonnet has done so far.

You can see in the first picture..where I wet sanding and buffed and where I stopped...turning out pretty good.

That is looking great! That oxidized old gel coat wipes out paper really fast. Be sure to change out your paper more often than you think necessary, it will save you a lot of work!

It sounds like you are using an orbital buffer and it looks like it is working, so I'd keep using the bonnets until you are ready to top coat with wax, then use your foam pads!

Keep it up!

 

[MTribe08]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

That is looking great! That oxidized old gel coat wipes out paper really fast. Be sure to change out your paper more often than you think necessary, it will save you a lot of work!

It sounds like you are using an orbital buffer and it looks like it is working, so I'd keep using the bonnets until you are ready to top coat with wax, then use your foam pads!

Keep it up!

I'm using a variable speed buffer with the wool pad..not the foam. I seems to be working good. I'm using a Cleaner/Wax after the wet sand and heavy duty rubbing compound. Both products are by 3M. Do I need something else?

Also, I haven't been going over 800 grit...will going up even higher produce a better shine? As it is right now, its pretty smooth..really have to look close to see any traces of scratches. Thanks


I'm finding that there really isn't any "Magic" potion to bring back an oxidized finish..Hard work and time is the key. Is quite a process.

 

[Dzrtcj7]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

I don't think you need to use any different product. I've chose to use a pure carnuba wax as my last coat out of preference. As long as your last coat has some sort of wax in it to provide protection, you should be good.

With that said, I have heard of people using special sealers to protect the freshly sanded gel coat, but I have not heard anything conclusive on those products and I'm by no means an expert on gel coat restoration.

If you are getting a finish you are happy with by buffing after the 800 grit, then there is no need to go to a finer grit. I chose to go to 1000 grit on my sides, and 1500 grit on my bow because they are so highly visible, combined with the red, makes it like polishing a car.

I wish there was magic! I've seen lots of people just buff oxidation out to make it shiny, but by the end of the season the oils from the wax have come out and it looks like crap again. Cutting back to the original, virgin gel coat, should give you the same longevity of the original surface. But yes, it's a LOT of work! My finger tips are finally starting to get back to normal!

 

[MTribe08]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

I don't think you need to use any different product. I've chose to use a pure carnuba wax as my last coat out of preference. As long as your last coat has some sort of wax in it to provide protection, you should be good.

Ok good.

If you are getting a finish you are happy with by buffing after the 800 grit, then there is no need to go to a finer grit. I chose to go to 1000 grit on my sides, and 1500 grit on my bow because they are so highly visible, combined with the red, makes it like polishing a car.

Well, yea..your boat was pretty rough to begin with..Even though my boat only had bad oxidation at the stern that needed a wet sand..I'm going to go ahead and do the whole thing, in hopes that it will help keep the finish for a long time.

I wish there was magic! I've seen lots of people just buff oxidation out to make it shiny, but by the end of the season the oils from the wax have come out and it looks like crap again. Cutting back to the original, virgin gel coat, should give you the same longevity of the original surface. But yes, it's a LOT of work! My finger tips are finally starting to get back to normal!

Thats just it..the haze comes back just about as fast as you take it off. And yes..my fingers are really sore..I did some other sanding/feathering on my deck, I'm toast right now.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Check your PM. I sent you a question about your exhaust. Nice work on the gelccoat.

 

[MTribe08]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

I don't think you need to use any different product. I've chose to use a pure carnuba wax as my last coat out of preference. As long as your last coat has some sort of wax in it to provide protection, you should be good.

Sent you a PM.

 

[Dzrtcj7]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Replied to your PM

I'm also posting my reply here for the semi-technical info.

MTribe08 asked me a question regarding struggling to get a high luster shine after compounding and waxing.

- - - - - - -

"I'm not sure why you aren't getting a good luster after your first cut with the buffer. I'm using that Meguires Diamond Cut Compound on a wool pad and getting a gorgeous shine on the first cut. Granted, that particular compound allows you to work for quite a while to get a great shine. But, I definitely have the shine, the later buffing is to remove swirl marks and to protect.

When making my first cut with the wool pad I do small, probably 2 sq foot areas, and work the compound until there is only a light residue of compound left visible on the surface. If I don't feel I've worked that area long enough, I give it light spray of water to keep the compound working. I particularly have to do this if I'm buffing in the direct day light. In the article I posted the auther reccomends against "dry buffing". The compound I'm using appears to be less prone to going "dry" than others. I end up with a nice and shiny finish. If you catch it in the right light, you can still see the light swirl marks in the the finish at this point.

You definitely do not want to cross contaminate buffing pads, unless you wash them in between. Contrary to what I said earlier in my post, now I'm making my cut with a wool pad, using a foam pad for the swirl mark remover, then applying the wax top coat by hand and buffing off with an orbital buffer with a micro fiber bonnet.

I did a little reading on the 3M Finesse-It, as I do not have any experience with it. It looks like a great product to use for removing swirl marks and minor imperfections once you are done buffing. I may take a look at using it.

I would reccomend giving an area a shot wet sanding with the 1000 grit paper, then working it over really well with your compound. Only after you get happy with your luster at the compound stage step up to the swirl mark remover, such as the Finesse-it.

I buy all of my products at the local Auto Body Paint supply shop. They typically carry better quality/ professional products than the typcial auto parts store. Plus, those guys are usually good for some great advice on products and methods!"

 

[Dzrtcj7]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Still saving pennies to get the upholstery done, but getting lots of cleaning and tuning done. Also amassing a pretty bad *** stereo system

For the heck of it, here's a couple new pics:

Here you can see the interior work I have ahead of me For those who have asked, you can also see how low the exhaust is below the water line.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Dear god that interior in that gorgeous red boat is a crime!

Seriously though, your exterior resto job is amazing. Can't wait to see how you tackle the interior. (don't think that will buff out )

 

[Dzrtcj7]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Dear god that interior in that gorgeous red boat is a crime!

Seriously though, your exterior resto job is amazing. Can't wait to see how you tackle the interior. (don't think that will buff out )

It is! I can't believe someone would let it get burned up like that Not sure if I'm going to tackle it myself or have a shop do it yet. The updated colors should really make the boat stand out though! I've got some red interior LED light in the works too.

 

[sprintst]

Re: VIP Vindicator Restoration

Considering how lucky you were with the engine, leg, structure, and hard work restoring the exterior you could splurge on the interior.

That whole boat will be primo when done.