Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

[Navigator_Victory]

I have printed out the information for fuel system testing..http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=283269....guess I am hoping there is a shortcut to to all of the testing....... if I say what it is doing ???

Ran perfect for about two hours started chugging and then no WOT.....changed fuel filter and ran perfect again for about two hours then same thing chug chug at WOT....ran fine at idle each time and I could get up to about 2500-3000RPM....no big deal bad gas from Marina change filter.....one or two hours same thing chug chug....ok this is getting old but boat has sat for at least 5 months so once again I change the filter but,,,,,,this time it will not hit WOT.....does not die but, acts like it wants to.. also note it surges if I mess with the throttle IE gas it then pull back or vice versa...... I pulled the fuel filter and I noticed it is only half full of fuel wheras the other times it was full.......so I am thinking :facepalm: can I short cut all the fuel system test and go straight to the problem......or at least I am thinking it is the fuel pump or the pickup tube is clogged...???......then again I guess I should go through all the steps just to make sure before I spend $$$$ on something I do not need.....
Well ok I guess I just wanted a place to vent......but,,,,,I will probably start at the pickup tube and see what I find......that is if I can find the pickup tube

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

Ran perfect for about two hours started chugging and then no WOT.....changed fuel filter and ran perfect again for about two hours then same thing chug chug at WOT....ran fine at idle each time and I could get up to about 2500-3000RPM....no big deal bad gas from Marina change filter

Bad gas would make it run bad all the time.
Water in the gas would run for a while till the filter filled up with to much water then got into the carb..... then it would run bad.
You missed a perfect way of troubleshooting, all you had to do was pour the contents of your old filter into a clear container, and see how much water or crap is in the fuel./
If it was just a lot of water, you can pump just the water out of the fuel tank and be good to go. The way you are doing it, you could be replacing the fuel filter every 2 hours for the whole summer.

 

[Navigator_Victory]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

Forgot to mention I did dump the filter and reinstall however (not smart enough) I dumped it into a bucket and carried ashore for proper disposal....I was able to dump filter twice then it would I assume clog.....did not make it out to lake yesterday but, plan to make it out today for troubleshooting fun.....will update with findings as they come to light

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

You don't reuse a filter once you dump it out, just the act of pouring out the contents contaminates the clean side of the filter. Might as well run without a filter at all.

 

[Navigator_Victory]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

Lesson learned and paying for the effects......did not seem like that would cause an issue but, I can see where it could.....did not make it out to boat last night and today looks worse so will prb be Friday before I start tearing into things.....I bought the clear tube and connectors today so I can check for air.....pressure gauge is $50 so will check everything else out first before I buy that......although I am really thinking now I may have clogged the injectors

 

[Navigator_Victory]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

So I may be in a bit over my head or maybe not with the help form Iboats forum.....pictures are worth a thousand words so took the camera with me yesterday and went nuts.....but, I think I have all my engine numbers and outdrive numbers so that is a +

To the important stuff....
1. Is it ok to spray carb cleaner into the carbs? I assume they are not much different than a car but,,,,,do not want to screw up again....in fact that is why I am asking before I do
2. The fuel lines look to have high pressure type fittings so I was a little nervous splicing the line with the clear tubing
3. What size is this fuel line look much larger than 3/8 to me but, maybe it is just a thick line?
4. Lines leading to back of carb are solid so no slicing there of course
5. I am assuming it is ok to cut the black Line? and splice into it?
6. Fuel tank looks like it is going to be a major pain to try and drain but, will make a new post for that
Thank You in advance for the help I will be putting engine etc info in my sig

 

[Navigator_Victory]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

Don I know you have a link someplace to Volvo for finding the specs.....since I do not know when you or someone else will see this I am going to dump what I have here and let you point me in the right direction so I can have the engine correctly identified.
Engine here is what I found
5.7 GI PMDA 4110110916 3868010 312158957 57TBI194US04 3854369
Outdrive
3868003 could not read first two letters think they are 11515440 DR-5 3102158957

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

1. Is it ok to spray carb cleaner into the carbs?

You can, but it doesn't do anything but make the outside look nicer, does nothing for cleaning the passages.

2. The fuel lines look to have high pressure type fittings so I was a little nervous splicing the line with the clear tubing

DO NOT cut hoses, make a fitting to adapt to your hoses.

6. Fuel tank looks like it is going to be a major pain to try and drain but

You don't drain the tanks, You just raise the bow of the boat so any water or debris goes to the aft end of the tank where the fuel pickup tube is, remove the tube and with a cheap electric fuel pump, some hose and a length of small dia. soft copper tubing, pump the water and crud off the bottom of the tank. In case you forgot, gas floats on water.

Don I know you have a link someplace to Volvo for finding the specs.....since I do not know when you or someone else will see this I am going to dump what I have here and let you point me in the right direction so I

Not sure why you posted this here, you already started a new thread on the information. Don't double post things in two different threads.

 

[Navigator_Victory]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

I talked to the wrench who worked on boat five months ago and he said the previous owner described the exact same issues.....he started replacing parts to resolve.....new plugs wires cap rotor rebuilt carbs and finally put ....I think he said rear fuel pump.said it was at the back of the motor...after he replaced that he said it ran perfect......told me the only parts not replaced were the lift pump which he suspects may need replacing now and the fuel hose from the gas tank.

He said he rebuilt the carbs but, there is not much you can do with a rebuild on the throttle body carbs......is that true? It is a two barrel and for future I was thinking it might be interesting to drop a four barrel on it but,,,,gas cost too much right now.....and if it had a four barrel I am sure I would make full use of it.

I removed the sending unit and it needs to be replaced so glad I caught that removed the tube that goes into the gas tank and that feeds the carbs and it is a solid aluminum tube so no corrosion from it.....tank was very clean but, just for good measure I drained the bottom contents of the tank and then took it a step further and ran the remaining contents through a fuel filter.
I replaced the fuel line with the newer marine grade fuel line. Replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the spark arrestor. He has done everything else so I guess I am going to replace the lift pump....then I believe the entire fuel system should be good to go.
I took it out yesterday and it got up off plane and hit about 3800,,,,,I have had it to 4500 so it is still way off....after running for about twenty minutes slowed down and then attempted to get back up again and this time it would not go over 3k.....which is not enough to break plane so I am hoping the lift pump is the issue.....my choice is spend money on the pump or a gauge......since so much work has already been done I am leaning towards replacing the pump first......thoughts?

Since everyone around here seems to like pictures....I Attached a couple pics of my fuel system filter for pumping out the tank.....

 

[tkrfxr]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

I think your filter will do a great job of removing dirt, but it may let water through.....water separating filters rely on gravity to collect the water at the bottom of the filter canister....

Testing the fuel pumps may help avoid changing a perfectly functional part....

 

[Navigator_Victory]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

Mechanic replaced one of the two pumps and he said boat ran great.....did nothing more after changing the one pump........it had the same exact problem before he replaced the pump so I am suspect of the pump he changed maybe it failed again?...
Why two fuel pumps? Could I take one of them out of the picture? he called the front one a lift pump......then again I guess if one fails the other will keep you moving?......redundant system?
I can test for low pressure but,,,,,now double the pain and effort......plus the boat is 11 years old.....probably due a new pump?

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

Mechanic replaced one of the two pumps and he said boat ran great.....did nothing more after changing the one pump........it had the same exact problem before he replaced the pump so I am suspect of the pump he changed maybe it failed again?...

Are you done throwing parts at it and ready to start testing things yet? You are doing everything about half way, then throwing some more parts at it. If you don't do the fuel system tests with the gauge, you are just guessing rather it actually works or not.
Since you haven't checked fuel pressures, you don't know it the pumps are working as they should. This is a fuel injected engine, and it takes some special tools and skills to work on, not a carbed engine you can just tinker with and usually throw parts at and fix fairly cheaply.

No, you can't just leave one of the pumps off.

 

[Navigator_Victory]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

I take exception to the comment "throwing parts"......here is my perception

Parts I have purchased to fix the problem:
fuel filters from Iboats
Clear tubing and connections to test for air bubbles
Electric Motor to suck fuel out of tank

Parts I have purchased because they needed replacing:
fuel hose that is resistant to ethanol
Sending Unit because the current one is corroded and falling apart.....had nothing to do with the problem just needed replacing as did the fuel line. So I do not consider those two parts in the equation.

I have been trying to hold off on a $50 tool I will most likely use one time and then put it on a shelf......trying to buy one thing at a time to troubleshoot the problem....and hopefully using somewhat of a common sense and methodical approach......here is my view of troubleshooting this problem......... but, I guess it is wrong ????

Boat runs great then loses power,

First few times------Filter----- fixed the problem------- so my first place to inspect clean etc is the gas tank.....made sense to me clogged filter = bad fuel dirty fuel water in fuel----what results would a fuel pressure test give me in this scenario?

It has old style fuel hose and corroded sending unit.....eventually the ethanol is going to eat this hose according to everything I have read.....might as well replace that while I am there.....made sense to me..... I did not think these two items would fix anything I just replaced them because they needed to be replaced.....would you agree?

after doing a couple changes I run boat and see what happens......did it fix it yes your done----- no then move on to the next test......this makes sense to me plus I did not want to spend money on a gauge I might not need.

I have no intention of becoming a boat mechanic and the only reason I do any of this is to learn how things work so I can be self reliant......and I am willing to share my mistakes with others.

I truly appreciate the input and advice without it I would be totally lost. If however this particular fuel system needs more special tools and skills then..........what am I to do?

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

Well heres what you do. Place close attention to Don he may seem sharp angled.. he is not, actually he is to the point and if you bear with him you will solve your issue....maybe not your way but you will solve it and learn a bit along the way. Now as to testing put everything back to the factory setup...go to auto zone and they will rent you a fuel pressure kit that will measure your high speed pump.

I personally would find a new mech his advice on a TB was fairly lame. " there is not much you can do with a rebuild on the throttle body carbs" That statement alone would make me run. The TB contains the fuel pressure regulator which if a fairly important item...Then there is the injectors themselves small item @ best..the IAC valve and a few other trinkets

IF your up to it you can take the injectors out its very simple and have them cleaned...Its rare they fail. Call napa and see it they offer a cleaning service or look in your phone or goggle injector cleaning service in you town or city...not a spray can cleaning but a complete disassemble hyper sonic cleaned new filters and O rings...maybe 75 for the service.

The TB system on your engine is a 454 TB out of the 80's used on GM products. search around and find a GM mech who knows them they are very simple if you understand them and most dont there old tech but there by far better than a carb... One for the carb guys..

Once you take the time to learn and understand its some fun stuff..TBI that is.

For: 5.7GIPMDA, 5.7GIPMDACE, 5.7GIIMDA Figure # Description Part # Qty*
Req. Note Unit
Price Availability
1 Throttle Body 3850354 1 $863.00
1 Fuel Press Regulator 1
2 Cover, Fuel Meter 1
3 Screw, Long 3
4 Screw, Short 5
5 Throttle Body 1
6 O-Ring, Fuel Injector 2
7 Injector, Fuel 2
8 Filter, Fuel Injector 2
9 Filter 2
10 Repair Kit, Fuel Meter 3855188 1 $470.59
11 Gasket 1
12 Gasket 1
13 Nut, Fuel Line 1
14 Gasket, Fuel Meter 1
15 Throttle Body, Base 3855183 1 - Thru Dealer**
16 Position Sensor, Throttle 1
17 Screw 2
18 Seal 1
19 O-Ring 1
20 Iac Valve 1
21 Screw 2
22 Screw 3
23 Nut, Fuel Line 1
24 Gasket 1
25 Screw 4
26 Repair Kit, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 14, 19, 24 3855179 1 $166.97
26 Repair Kit, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 3855180 1 - Thru Dealer**
26 Repair Kit, 1, 2, 5, 14 3855181 1 - Thru Dealer**
26 Injector, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 14 3855182 1 $346.95
26 Repair Kit, 16, 18 3855184 1 $118.06
26 Repair Kit 3855185
Replaced by
3855194 1

$178.53
26 Repair Kit, 12, 13, 23, 24 3855186 1 - Thru Dealer**
26 Repair Kit, 3, 4, 17, 21, 22 3855187 1 - Thru Dealer**
26 Repair Kit 3855189 1 $53.52

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

* The Quantity Required is based on manufacturer recommendations, should you need more or less quantity you can make that change within the Shopping Cart during checkout.

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Shipping times are normally between 3-8 days, though some items are only available at one warehouse and may require additional fulfillment time. To find the estimated Delivery Date of any item, or your complete order, add the item(s) to your shopping cart and click the Calculate Shipping button.



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[Navigator_Victory]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

37k posts I do not doubt don has seen it all or most of it......and my guess is he responds to hundreds of posts each day.....so maybe it looked like I was throwing alot of parts when in fact I had not....I guess I could have put it much more simply....?

Now as to testing put everything back to the factory setup...go to auto zone and they will rent you a fuel pressure kit that will measure your high speed pump.

Nothing has been changed from Factory except a fuel hose and I ordered the fuel sending unit it is not installed but, unless I am calling it by the wrong name....it is just a gas gauge that goes in the gas tank.... . not sure what you mean by "back to factory"

I personally would find a new mech his advice on a TB was fairly lame. " there is not much you can do with a rebuild on the throttle body carbs" That statement alone would make me run.

I agree.....but, he was the last person to work on it and what I listed is the information I got by talking to him....he has not touched the boat since I purchased it....he did the work for the previous owner not me......I prefer to screw things up myself :facepalm:

The TB contains the fuel pressure regulator which if a fairly important item...Then there is the injectors themselves small item @ best..the IAC valve and a few other trinkets


Thank You for looking up the diagram.....hopefully I do not get that far but,,,,it does not look very complicated from the diagram

Thank You for your ideas/thoughts.....if I confused you----- I must assume I also confused Don with what I wrote......I will work on being more clear in what I ask/say/post

Typewritten communication although it works....can be totally taken the wrong way and I always give a person the option to explain if I think I am reading something the wrong way......easy to take a comment WAY out of context.....

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

I have printed out the information for fuel system testing..http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=283269....guess I am hoping there is a shortcut to to all of the testing....... if I say what it is doing ???

There is no shortcuts. The thing you have to do, is do the tests, the results will point you one way or the other.

Granted, you have cleaned the tank, but that is only one part of the total system. Now you have to do the Fuel System Tests to find other problem. If the fuel system tests all check out, then you move to pressure testing the pumps and following the service manual for those tests. Yes, it may take some special tools and gauges.
Your mechanic changed the low pressure fuel pump, WHY? It obviously didn't fix the problem, so why did he replace it? Low pressure? Didn't run? Why?

You are also going to have to do the pressure checks on the water while the problem is occurring.
99% of this type of a problem is troubleshooting, repair is usually the least time consuming part of the job.

 

[Navigator_Victory]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

Wise advise I am working on it.....much slower than I would like
Tank is off the list and the hose is replaced double clamped at both ends and pipe dope where metal touches metal....instructions say to test for bubbles so I will put a vinyl hose in for the purpose of testing

Per the instructions I assume you agree with ? I need to check for an airbound/leaky system? however I am going to make a proper connection to the fuel pump instead of splicing the fuel line.


Step 1 - Testing for an airbound/leaky system
This is the easiest of the tests. For an airbound system all you need is the clear vinyl line and a couple of barbs. You do not need the gauge at this point. Splice the clear test line (and I say TEST LINE, because this is for testing purposes only, NO BOAT, should ever be used with vinyl line outside of TESTING PURPOSES!!)
Start the boat up and run it. Look for bubbles in the clear line. A small bubble here or there every 20 or 30 seconds isn't a big deal, but if you get a somewhat steady stream of bubbles then you have an air leak. At this point shut the motor down and go through every clamp (most fittings should be double clamped) every fuel fitting, nipple, barb... etc all the way to the tank. Metal connectors and threads should be disassembled, cleaned and pipe doped. Do not use teflon tape, it has no place on a boat. But pipe dope with teflon works fine. Start up and retest. If you still have bubbles you missed something.... go back through your work.


Vacuum Testing Fuel System.... In other words... testing the BOAT SIDE fuel system for a restriction.

To be 100% accurate.... This test must be performed with engine under load;
1. Install Vacuum and Fuel Pressure Gauge such as Snap-on? Tools MT311JB or equivalent, and 8 in. (20,3 cm) of clear, fuel resistant vinyl hose into the fuel line at the filter fuel pump inlet fitting. (NOTE: On some engines there is a filter hard plumbed to the fuel pump, these engines should have the gauge attached to the fuel filter and not the pump itself. )
2. Start engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Run engine at full throttle (NOTE: As noted above, this is done under a load, not on muffs, if you do this on muffs, or in neutral, or not on a dyno... you take the chance of over revving, having a runaway, or just plain blowing up your engine... and possibly yourself!!!) for at least 2 minutes; observe vacuum gauge reading and check clear hose for air or vapor bubbles. Gauge reading must not exceed 4 in. of mercury (Hg) at any time, and there should be no bubbles visible in the clear hose.
If you are getting bubbles check for.
1. All metal fittings
2. Wrong type hose clamp used (Use mini clamps not standard size clamps, double clamps on everything in between the pump and the boat)
3. Filter seal leaking
4. Pickup tube in fuel tank defective.---------Verified this is Good
5. Loose, cracked, corroded fittings in the system (including the tank and fuel filter or fuel line)---------Verified this is Good
Repair or replace suspect part, then make another vacuum test to verify repair.

Gauge reads 0-4 in. of mercury (Hg) (vacuum)

1. If you have air bubbles.... then you still have an airbound system. And you need to repeat step 1.
2. 0 to 4 is normal, but no more than 4 Hg. If you are on the high side (close to 4) Then you either have a really really big boat with big gas tanks and that's okay....... or you have a problem/restriction causing the vacuum reading to read on the high side. If you have more than 4 Hg, then you have a restriction.
If you fall in the latter. The 3 major things, most common things are a....
1. Clogged fuel filter/fuel water separator
2. stuck anti siphon valve
3. clogged fuel tank vent
If you are Joe the Boater with a smaller/mid size boat, start with replacing the filters first and checking the tank vent and retesting.... then move on to the anti siphon valve if need be and retest. Ideally you'd like to have the vacuum restriction as low as possible.
If you still have a high reading. Its possible that you have a screen on the pickup in the fuel tank that is getting clogged. You can try forcing some compressed air down the fuel line to knock the stuff off (MAKE SURE IF YOU DO THIS THAT YOU TAKE THE FUEL TANK FILL CAP OFF!!!) Unfortunately though, if you have that much junk in your tank (and older boats will, especially steel tanks) the problem will likely resurface.
If you still have a high reading, replace your fuel lines. It isn't common to have collapsed fuel lines, but it happens once in a blue moon. What is your favorite color moon? Make sure you replace lines with Coast Guard approved type A1 fuel line Your going to have to get that at a marine store... the townie auto parts store is not going to have it.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

There are some...quick check points though...Look at your injectors spray patterns under a flourescent light. There should be a even conical look to the them and no drips...Little precheck of the high fuel pressure rail takes 5 minutes to hook up.. a 30 second burst at 3000 rpm leg down and out of gear muffs on ..holding a good and steady 35+ lbs on the gauge..Then you get on the water knowing two things are good and it takes 10 minutes..Umm im out..

 

[Navigator_Victory]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

As you can tell I like doing the quick and easy stuff first....saying a prayer and giving it a try

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo 5.7 GI Fuel Issue

Wise advise I am working on it.....much slower than I would like
Tank is off the list and the hose is replaced double clamped at both ends and pipe dope where metal touches metal....instructions say to test for bubbles so I will put a vinyl hose in for the purpose of testing

Per the instructions I assume you agree with ? I need to check for an airbound/leaky system? however I am going to make a proper connection to the fuel pump instead of splicing the fuel line.


Step 1 - Testing for an airbound/leaky system
This is the easiest of the tests. For an airbound system all you need is the clear vinyl line and a couple of barbs. You do not need the gauge at this point. Splice the clear test line (and I say TEST LINE, because this is for testing purposes only, NO BOAT, should ever be used with vinyl line outside of TESTING PURPOSES!!)
Start the boat up and run it. Look for bubbles in the clear line. A small bubble here or there every 20 or 30 seconds isn't a big deal, but if you get a somewhat steady stream of bubbles then you have an air leak. At this point shut the motor down and go through every clamp (most fittings should be double clamped) every fuel fitting, nipple, barb... etc all the way to the tank. Metal connectors and threads should be disassembled, cleaned and pipe doped. Do not use teflon tape, it has no place on a boat. But pipe dope with teflon works fine. Start up and retest. If you still have bubbles you missed something.... go back through your work.


Vacuum Testing Fuel System.... In other words... testing the BOAT SIDE fuel system for a restriction.

To be 100% accurate.... This test must be performed with engine under load;
1. Install Vacuum and Fuel Pressure Gauge such as Snap-on? Tools MT311JB or equivalent, and 8 in. (20,3 cm) of clear, fuel resistant vinyl hose into the fuel line at the filter fuel pump inlet fitting. (NOTE: On some engines there is a filter hard plumbed to the fuel pump, these engines should have the gauge attached to the fuel filter and not the pump itself. )
2. Start engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Run engine at full throttle (NOTE: As noted above, this is done under a load, not on muffs, if you do this on muffs, or in neutral, or not on a dyno... you take the chance of over revving, having a runaway, or just plain blowing up your engine... and possibly yourself!!!) for at least 2 minutes; observe vacuum gauge reading and check clear hose for air or vapor bubbles. Gauge reading must not exceed 4 in. of mercury (Hg) at any time, and there should be no bubbles visible in the clear hose.
If you are getting bubbles check for.
1. All metal fittings
2. Wrong type hose clamp used (Use mini clamps not standard size clamps, double clamps on everything in between the pump and the boat)
3. Filter seal leaking
4. Pickup tube in fuel tank defective.---------Verified this is Good
5. Loose, cracked, corroded fittings in the system (including the tank and fuel filter or fuel line)---------Verified this is Good
Repair or replace suspect part, then make another vacuum test to verify repair.

Gauge reads 0-4 in. of mercury (Hg) (vacuum)

1. If you have air bubbles.... then you still have an airbound system. And you need to repeat step 1.
2. 0 to 4 is normal, but no more than 4 Hg. If you are on the high side (close to 4) Then you either have a really really big boat with big gas tanks and that's okay....... or you have a problem/restriction causing the vacuum reading to read on the high side. If you have more than 4 Hg, then you have a restriction.
If you fall in the latter. The 3 major things, most common things are a....
1. Clogged fuel filter/fuel water separator
2. stuck anti siphon valve
3. clogged fuel tank vent
If you are Joe the Boater with a smaller/mid size boat, start with replacing the filters first and checking the tank vent and retesting.... then move on to the anti siphon valve if need be and retest. Ideally you'd like to have the vacuum restriction as low as possible.
If you still have a high reading. Its possible that you have a screen on the pickup in the fuel tank that is getting clogged. You can try forcing some compressed air down the fuel line to knock the stuff off (MAKE SURE IF YOU DO THIS THAT YOU TAKE THE FUEL TANK FILL CAP OFF!!!) Unfortunately though, if you have that much junk in your tank (and older boats will, especially steel tanks) the problem will likely resurface.
If you still have a high reading, replace your fuel lines. It isn't common to have collapsed fuel lines, but it happens once in a blue moon. What is your favorite color moon? Make sure you replace lines with Coast Guard approved type A1 fuel line Your going to have to get that at a marine store... the townie auto parts store is not going to have it.

Not sure if you added some text to the how to or not, I sure don't want to read through the whole thing and decipher what you did and what was already in the post. If you just make your text stand out, like using bold or different color or something obvious.

I did notice these couple items, here is how to make them stand out even more

3. Filter seal leaking
4. Pickup tube in fuel tank defective.---------Verified this is Good
5. Loose, cracked, corroded fittings in the system (including the tank and fuel filter or fuel line)---------Verified this is Good