Volvo Penta 4.3 GL No Power to Fuel Pump

[mckaras]

I'm getting no power to the fuel pump, if I put direct power to the fuel pump it will run. Engine starts after pumping the throttle several times and stays running obviously until gas runs out.

I checked power at green wire on the alternator and I am getting 12V. I checked power to the green wire going into the fuel pump fuse holder and I do not have any voltage. The orange wire I am getting 12V to it. The black negative wire going to the relay holder I am getting 12V.

I looked at some diagrams and it shows that the green wire is supposed to go from the relay holder straight to the alternator but it did not look to be going there. I took off almost all the electrical tape and it looks like they are separate.

I just bought this boat and the electrical was a bit of a mess with some wires having been open which I redid the connections to see if that was the issue which it was not.

I replaced the relay as well and did not make a difference.

I spent a few hours trying to figure it out and I don't recall if I tested whether or not the negative wire going to the fuel pump. The 15 amp breaker I checked as well and there's 12V going to both terminals.

I tested the wires both in the start position and when I was cranking it and there was no voltage going to the red/yellow wire to the fuel pump or the green wire going to the relay holder for the fuel pump.

 

[alldodge]

Which GL do you have? GL A, B, C.....
The GL uses 2 diodes to provide fuel to the fuel pump. One is inline with the Green wire and the other is inline with the Orange wire

The black negative wire going to the relay holder I am getting 12V.

You should not have 12V on the Black wire because that is ground. With key OFF use an ohm meter and check resistance from Black wire on relay to ground, you should read zero ohms. If its higher than that you have a broken ground wire

 

[Scott Danforth]

Holy melted wiring batman

 

[mckaras]

Holy melted wiring batman

View attachment 406861

Yup, a cluster of garbage. I just need it to run enough to get me to the boat ramp on the other side to put on my trailer. I have a harness sitting for the boat at the warehouse.

 

[mckaras]

Which GL do you have? GL A, B, C.....
The GL uses 2 diodes to provide fuel to the fuel pump. One is inline with the Green wire and the other is inline with the Orange wire


You should not have 12V on the Black wire because that is ground. With key OFF use an ohm meter and check resistance from Black wire on relay to ground, you should read zero ohms. If its higher than that you have a broken ground wire

Sorry not 12V I checked the positive wires and they all had 12V, just not the fuel pump yellow/red wire. Would I just check continuity on either side of the green and orange wire where the diode is to see the reading for it?

I'll check resistance next. Just need to youtube a video to double check. I didn't check any resistance at all.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you can use a coffee can with a nipple soldered to the bottom and gravity feed the carb to get you to the boat ramp.

just need the fuel source higher than the carb.

alternatively you can use an outboard tank, and a squeeze bulb

or you can hotwire the pump directly

its not rocket science

 

[mckaras]

you can use a coffee can with a nipple soldered to the bottom and gravity feed the carb to get you to the boat ramp.

just need the fuel source higher than the carb.

alternatively you can use an outboard tank, and a squeeze bulb

or you can hotwire the pump directly

its not rocket science

Ok, I just wanted to solve this crap if it was more or less accessible to change out the diodes or whatever the issue is. I have an standalone gas tank with a squeeze bulb on it. I did hotwire the pump to check if it would work that's about it. Just don't know if that pump is continuously on when the engine is running or not. I don't even hear it turn on at all when the key is turned on the start position. If the standalone gas tank with bulb is the solution I have one.

 

[Donald0039]

How did the wiring get so beat up looking?

 

[mckaras]

How did the wiring get so beat up looking?

No idea, they had some "mechanic" that did work on all their boats at this boat club/STR property company and I picked up two boats from them. One of the boats has a cracked block which I was aware of and the other just had this fuel delivery issue. Other ones harness is untouched and this one was just cut and spliced every foot. I don't know how the hell they didn't blow up with the amount of exposed wires that was on this boat.

 

[mckaras]

Which GL do you have? GL A, B, C.....
The GL uses 2 diodes to provide fuel to the fuel pump. One is inline with the Green wire and the other is inline with the Orange wire


You should not have 12V on the Black wire because that is ground. With key OFF use an ohm meter and check resistance from Black wire on relay to ground, you should read zero ohms. If its higher than that you have a broken ground wire

I'll check it out and get back to you on the model Friday. Not entirely sure what it is. I just know it's a 1996 Model from the old style trim cylinders it has on it and the side mounted raw water pump.

This should be close enough to the engine I have, it's a 4.3GS model carbureted. 4.3GSPNCA

Volvo Penta shows that it was manufactured 95-96. I just don't see what all they've messed with since they changed the coil to a mercruiser style coil on it. Here's the part number for it 898253T24. It's the cylindrical coil.

 

[Bondo]

Just don't know if that pump is continuously on when the engine is running or not.

Ayuh,..... It should pump when starting, 'n when the motor is running,....

 

[alldodge]

Just don't know if that pump is continuously on when the engine is running or not

The pump should run full time when motor is running

Sorry not 12V I checked the positive wires and they all had 12V, just not the fuel pump yellow/red wire. Would I just check continuity on either side of the green and orange wire where the diode is to see the reading for it?

Might just be the relay
Key ON should have 12V on pin 30
When cranking or motor running should have 12V on the Orange or Green wire (this can be pin 85 or 86, the other pin will be black ground)

If you see 12V on the orange/green pin and do not have power going from co to 87 (yell/red) then the relay is not working

 

[mckaras]

The pump should run full time when motor is running


Might just be the relay
Key ON should have 12V on pin 30
When cranking or motor running should have 12V on the Orange or Green wire (this can be pin 85 or 86, the other pin will be black ground)

If you see 12V on the orange/green pin and do not have power going from co to 87 (yell/red) then the relay is not working

View attachment 406870
View attachment 406872

Yes so I had 12V on the orange/green pin. The orange wire individually only had 12V and the green did not have any voltage. It's possible the other relay I put was shot as well. I'll have to check with a new one. Getting it towed in today with the sellers other boat so I'll finally be able to pull the engine serial number and crawl inside again to check it out.

 

[mckaras]

The pump should run full time when motor is running


Might just be the relay
Key ON should have 12V on pin 30
When cranking or motor running should have 12V on the Orange or Green wire (this can be pin 85 or 86, the other pin will be black ground)

If you see 12V on the orange/green pin and do not have power going from co to 87 (yell/red) then the relay is not working

View attachment 406870
View attachment 406872

Thanks got it sorted out, I grabbed another relay off a cracked engine and that ended up being shot as well. Replaced it with another and now I have 12V running to the yellow/red wire on the pump.

Do you know by chance if the electrical wiring is marine specific? I want to fix this harness as well so it's back in good shape.

 

[alldodge]

Most wiring is marine type (tinned copper) but if your in fresh water and seal the connections you will be fine