Wallpaper and Drywall

sphelps

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

The sealer helps keep the raw paper from blistering as bad . It will blister up here and there so ya gotta cut them out as they show up and remud as needed .
 

sphelps

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

The H/D brand of the sealer is called Rx - 35 by Roman .
 
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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

Glenn, got any photos of that? I'd like to see what that texture turned out like.

Dunno' that I wanna' take out all of the drywall, as opposed to just adding a thin piece. I can get away with skimming a couple of sections (they're small and I think I can keep it pretty smooth), but I've got two larger wall sections that are the main consternation here. No jams or casings to work around though, so that's pretty good. It's all gonna' be flat wall and simple corners.

wall.jpg

I didn't like this color but my wife wanted earthy so shes happy

p.s the photo is of a area about 16" square
 
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sphelps

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

This is the sealer we use at work ..
Amazon.com: Gardz Drywall Sealer, 1 Gal: Patio, Lawn & Garden
After you paint this on and it dries ,skim with mud and let dry . Its gunna blister up in places . Take a razor knife and cut the blistered paper out . Re-apply Gardz on spots and touch up . Hard to tell how bad it will blister . Sometimes not a blister then other times you will get a bunch .. Pick up sanding pole and some 100 grit paper .
You could always rent a hopper gun and put a knock down texture on it but it will still need to be skimmed and sanded before texture .
You might also try and find a local finisher that will do the job reasonable . If you do the cover up and clean up they may give a price break . Check out some new houses going up or buildings and ask finishers there if they may be interested in a little side work .
Even if you put another layer of rock on you will still have to finish the joints . And skimming would be easier for a beginner than finishing joints .
Hopefully this was of some help .. :)
 

southkogs

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

Glenn - thanks for the photo. Little too much texture for the Admiral ;)

sphelps - Awesome information. The roller & mud idea has me looking at coating it again. Once I get the paper completely off (or as "off" as I can get it), I've got a couple of areas I can test it out on - they're smaller sections of wall that'll be easier to keep consistent. Thank you very much for all the information! Just the kind of stuff I needed.
 
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rogerwa

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

Per my previous comment, my first house was built in '39 and somehow it had drywall. In any case it was never painted, it was papered right away and when we bought it in '92 it had a lot of layers. One of the hidden horror of a new first time home buyer. It had a lot of nice custom trim that was original so our only option was to use what was there. We followed the water and soaking trick through the whole living room, dining room, and hallway. It was a lot of work and messy and we took some chunks out. Some of the paper was a vinyl type, most of it was not pre-pasted.

Once that was done, we sanded it all down, sealed as previously stated and then we hired a drywall taper to come in and skim coat the walls. When it was done, it was not perfect, but once painted you would have to look closely for imperfections.

I hired out the skim coating as it would take me far longer to get a good result. I've never tried the steamer but i think I tried everything else.
 

southkogs

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^^^ Yeah, I'll be trying the tips from your other post on one of the walls where the paper is particularly stubborn. But we've tried it almost the same exact way and have bupkis to show for it. Some of the paper still wouldn't come off, and still did some damage to the drywall. I've been apprehensive about skimming (and really don't want to pay someone if I can avoid it) … probably gonna' have to bite the bullet and take it on.

On a related note: In one section of the walls (where the stove is), I would like to tile the backsplash and cooking area. The current counter is the original the contractors put in, basic laminate top with an integrated backsplash (bullnose front of counter and bends up in the back about 4" to a bullnose). Is it best to pull that out and tile behind it? Or does it matter based on what I'll wanna' do in the future?
 

oldjeep

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

On a related note: In one section of the walls (where the stove is), I would like to tile the backsplash and cooking area. The current counter is the original the contractors put in, basic laminate top with an integrated backsplash (bullnose front of counter and bends up in the back about 4" to a bullnose). Is it best to pull that out and tile behind it? Or does it matter based on what I'll wanna' do in the future?

It would be best to replace the countertop with what you want there first, rather than trying to guess where the top of the counter will wind up when you replace it.
 

sphelps

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

You could just leave the bottom row o tile off then finish it up after new tops go on . Or start first row of tile 1/4" above the splash rail . Finish it up later .
 

oldjeep

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

You could just leave the bottom row o tile off then finish it up after new tops go on . Or start first row of tile 1/4" above the splash rail . Finish it up later .

Assuming you want all the cuts to be at the counter where you see them - rather than at the cabinet bottom where you don't. This is one of those projects that it doesn't make sense to piecemeal. Buy all your materials then start doing the job in the correct order.
 

southkogs

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

^^^ That works. Our counters are kinda' spread out through the kitchen, so we can replace them a bit at a time.
 

rogerwa

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Bigprairie1

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

....I like the idea of the thin/skim coat bit. Next up I too would have approached it with an overlay of 1/4" drywall noting that you have to build up the door jams by ripping some 1/4"+ strips and putting them on (see Bruces comments).
One thing to consider is the age of the house in this. If the house is older than early 60's there is a good chance that any paint on the wall has lead in it and it might be that the materials that went in the wall paper might have some asbestos in them. These are fine when left in the house as 'solid' but when reduced to dust can cause health problems...so be very wary of tearing down old walls, plaster, etc and releasing that into your house.
My two bits.
BP
 

southkogs

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

Thanks for the reminder BP. It was built in '95, we bought it in '99. We're in good shape there - wish it was built as tough as some of the older homes, tho. ;)
 

sphelps

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

Just a thought . You can rent a dustless sanding machine from the rental place at H/D . That will help keep at least some of the dust down . And they do a nice job with sanding large area's . We work in a lot of hospitals and use them every day .
 

colbyt

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

On a project where time is major factor sanding drywall might make a lot of sense. On a project where time is not of the essence try this method of skim coating.

Starting at one wall near the ceiling, drag a moderately loaded 6" knife across the wall to apply a very thin veneer. Skip about an inch or two and continue to the opposing wall. Drop down about 4" and repeat the process until you reach the baseboard. Allow it to set and then fill in those 2" gaps. Work on these till smooth and only then go back and fill in the the 4" strips. A few touch up coats will result in a wall that looks and feels smooth though it is truly neither.

Using a setting type mud improves the speed of application. Sanding or scraping a few ridges is about all the sanding you need to do.
 

sphelps

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

I see where your going with that application . It keeps you from dragging the edge of the knife through wet mud . LOL no offense but if my boss saw our finishers skimming walls like that he would fire them and then fire me for letting them do it !
Use at least a 12" knife and pull a thin tight coat . If you eyeball down the knife blade it will have a slight curve or bow in it. Hold the knife where the outside edges curve out away from the wall . This will help minimize the lap marks . Let dry then start cutting out the blisters . Skim over the cut out blisters . Let dry then sand the wall before next coat of mud . Thin tight coats . It will take a little time getting used to using the knife but you will catch on
 

Tim Frank

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

I see where your going with that application . It keeps you from dragging the edge of the knife through wet mud . LOL no offense but if my boss saw our finishers skimming walls like that he would fire them and then fire me for letting them do it !

That's why he said....
" On a project where time is not of the essence try this method of skim coating."
:)
 

sphelps

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Re: Wallpaper and Drywall

Sorry . I didn't mean to offend or come off like a know it all jerk or something . The method Colbyt posted would definatly work . The only problem that I see is the blistering that will happen skimming over raw torn up drywall . You might as well skim all at once so you can cut out the blisters all at the same time .
Sorry again I guess the 30 years I have been doing this stuff professionally kinda bled through a bit .
Regards SP ...
 
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