War with lower unit

[Bosunsmate]

Re: War with lower unit

Have a look at part 78036 its called a base on the crowley link.
I dont think youd have trouble selecting gear without it but not having it may misalign the lock down cam for reverse.
Dont put it in the iceflow yet!

 

[Yesterday]

Re: War with lower unit

I will look into it! chances are the part will be with the rebuild kit..

Say I have another issue emerging! I snapped the intake nub on the fuel pump. It was very brittle thin plastic. fule pump is like this:
Mercury Mariner 80 HP Fuel Pump Assembly | eBay

They show a cap in the parts break-out but: 1) its like $70.00 and does not look like mine. It's not pump which has a hose based suction feel either so I'm in a bit of a pickle. I did find the actual part number for the right one (which sold for $5.00) but it's NLA. Do I have any options here?

 

[Yesterday]

Re: War with lower unit

Oh! I just checked that out. It actually looks like a tiny seal that goes beneath the main bushing seal right? If yes, then I've replaced it. I did not however, fill the gap with grease! Hmmm no gap between the casings of mine though. All the seals got a film of oil before I slide any shafts into them.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: War with lower unit

it goes directly under the reverse lock cam.
How much of the nub is left?

 

[Yesterday]

Re: War with lower unit

None. it broke off near smooth. I was thinking of dremeling it out and perhaps using some urethane adhesive to glue a metal one in.

Ahhh reverse LOCK cam! Was wondering why I couldn't place what you were referring to! Once I verify my PT&T work I will probably not bother putting the reverse lock cam & shaft in anyway.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: War with lower unit

You could try oldmercs.com or your technique, just not sure if urethane would do it.
You could try some of that plastic (petrol resistant )weld putty like a JB weld product.
Youd want to make sure it was rounded off well so bits didnt break off but i suppose itl still be upstream of the filter

 

[Moody Blue]

Re: War with lower unit

View attachment 182168I'm concerned about the crank where the outer seal would ride.

Yeah, that crank looks nasty. You're going to need a wear sleeve installed on the crank. P/N A-86349A1. Here is a brief detail about it.

 

[emckelvy]

Re: War with lower unit

View attachment 182168



@MoodyBlue:
Keen eye on that seal. Though the inner one was still intact, the outer most seal was not! The spring and rubber lip of the seal literally fell out! I'm concerned about the crank where the outer seal would ride.

The end of that crankshaft is SHOT! That's where the 2 seals ride and that surface must be smooth or you'll loose crankcase pressure, it'll run poorly, and start sucking in water.

Merc sells a stainless "speedi-sleeve" that'll press over the end of the crank and provide a clean surface for the seals.

The crankshaft, as pitted as it is, should probably have a thin layer of JB Weld or epoxy to fill in the rust pits, and ensure the sleeve is retained on the shaft. Normally you could use some Loctite but the crank is too far gone for that, the Loctite wouldn't take a set.

Stuff some paper towels or shop rag into the block, to protect the crank bearing from foreign material, then wire brush/sand as much loose rust off the end of the crankshaft as you can. Smooth as best possible with medium-grit paper, degrease, and the JB/epoxy should make a good 'bed' for the sleeve, when installed. Clean off any excess JB/epoxy before it sets.

The P/N for the crankshaft wear sleeve is "86349A 1" (the "A" in front of the part # doesn't matter, and the space between the other "A" and "1" is intentional), and I've attached a pic with info on the sleeve.


HTH.........ed

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: War with lower unit

Will the speedi-sleeve mean that that it will need seals with a larger ID than what the standard seals IDs are?

 

[emckelvy]

Re: War with lower unit

Will the speedi-sleeve mean that that it will need seals with a larger ID than what the standard seals IDs are?

No, the walls of the sleeve are so thin that the seals will have no problem conforming to the slightly-larger diameter. One consequence of having a sleeve on there, though, is that if the crankshaft ball bearing ever needed to be replaced, the sleeve would have to come off, as it would interfere with removal of the bearing.

No problem in your case, as the bearing appears to be in surprisingly good condition, and you're not splitting open the crankcase, which would be required to get at that bearing for replacement.

HTH.........ed

 

[Yesterday]

Re: War with lower unit

Wow thanks a bunch guys!!!!!!!!!! I'll add that to the order list! Bosuns was thinking the exact same thing I was and asked the question for me!

So now here's another: what do you think about turning that crankshaft while the end cap is off? I mean basically hooking up a drill to the flywheel with the plugs out, so I can hand machine (sandpaper) the end of the crank. I thought about trying it but was hesitant because that crank bearing seems to be carried by the end cap, so im thinking not such a good idea?

 

[Moody Blue]

Re: War with lower unit

Can't see it being a problem. The crank is still supported by the upper main bearing, center main bearing and the two reed blocks. Not like your spnning the thing at 3000rpm under load. I would however spray some fogging oil or similar into the cyls to keep everything lubed. Wouldn't want to be running the cyls dry.

Don't be too concerned about the condition of the lower crank. Just need to remove the loose rust/scale etc. The sleeve will cover whats important.

 

[Yesterday]

Re: War with lower unit

Update:
She's all cleaned up. Water pump & crank seals are already here and now just have to wait about a week for the crank sleeve. Meanwhile I did some re-wiring on the power head, replaced the regulator & rectifier with a 2-in-1 pack ($40.00) and I'm now working on the PT&T. Anyone have any idea what's with all of the ground straps from the cowling to the middle leg?? I don't understand why the leg would need a ground let alone 4??

I can see this engine being back together and ready for testing within 1-2 days of receiving the sleeve. Now I have to figure out how I'm going to fix up the fin I snapped some small pieces out of on the bottom of the mid-leg. I tried to braze them back on with aluminum rods but my torch just doesn't have what it takes. I could get them TIG welded but they want $100-$200 just to do that! I'm debating using an epoxy or JB Weld but I'm reading wildly different opinions on the use of those in a submerged and vibration prone environment.
Fun fun!!

 

[frankenmerc]

Re: War with lower unit

FYI Yesterday, I have tried J.B. weld on a small piece on the midsection by the shock absorber and seems to be holding up ok. but in your case depending on the size and location you are talking about talking about may consider welding. I have another situation similar to yours that I am considering but I am leaning to getting it welded, OUCH it is not cheap!!!! had a piece welded some time back the size of a .50cent piece and charged me $125!! After my reaction when he gave me the cost he went down 20% :joyous:
Let us know what you decide and how it works out.

 

[Yesterday]

Re: War with lower unit

Thanks for that Merc #1. In my case it's just at the bottom of the leg right above the lower unit (where I was prying) and in the front of the motor. It's mostly cosmetic, but im worried it may create turbulence in the water and lead to some cavitation about the prop. The only forces which would be working against the fin would be moving water.

 

[Laddies]

Re: War with lower unit

The

 

[Yesterday]

Re: War with lower unit

Ahhhh Thanks for the electrolysis Info. The power head was laying on it's side when I did that 4 or 5 days ago. hopefully it didn't dammage the reed stops.:facepalm:

 

[Yesterday]

Re: War with lower unit

Nothing comes easy with this b*&^%!! I started working on the PT&T and what a battle to get the mount brackets off. I cut out the rod which ties them together because no amount of heat/force/hammering would budge them without. One bracket came off with a little further persuasion, but the other wouldn't budge until I got extreme with it. (Something about a 4ft prybar?! LOL)

So I had two chunks of stainless rod to get out of these brackets. One came out with about 30 minutes of aid with a 4lb sledge and a punch. The other with the same treatment, seen the stainless rod bend, inside the aluminum bracket. Any guesses what happened with the bracket?? Well not being a mystery fan I will answer that. It's in 3 pieces.:facepalm: Now to drill the remaining piece of rod out of the hydraulic cylinder and figure out how I'm going to track down an obsolete (twice removed) bracket!

 

[Yesterday]

Re: War with lower unit

OK so at a cool $140.00 for a once or twice used "special tool" I exercised some creativity. I took a small piece of steel plate and a nut down to the local muffler shop. $20.00 later, a bit of cutting and some rattle can cosmetics and I now have my very own special tool #3:

It may not be the prettiest device ever, but it ought to do the job nicely, and the price was right!

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: War with lower unit

It looks more pretty than the merc ones
What torque setting are you going to use?
Is the nut on yours plastic or metallic?