Water in oil, milkshake.

[holorinhal]

Do you store in the water or trailer?

Oh and no i dont store in water. I store on the trailer at my shop.

 

[holorinhal]

I took off the starboard exhaust manifold and riser. And the valve cover.
After further inspection of the exterior of exhaust manifold. I see evidence of wAter leaking on the outside face of manifold, coming from the riser /manifold joint, as streaks funning down the manifold.
when i separated the riser and manifold, the gasket is still intact with no breaks or cracks.

i roled the engine over a couple of revolutions, and nothing seems visually out of ordinary in the rockers and calve springs.
i got #6 to TDC, and ran air to the cylinder.
Air is rushing out strong from the carburetor.
So that indicates intake valve.
nothing that i can tell from exhaust or crankcase.
i backed off both intake and exhaust, rockers on cyl 6 and took rockers off.
no bent pushrods but still air rushing out of carb.
So this means either stuck, bent or burnt intake valve.

So i guess i am pulling the engine and the head!

where could the water have come from to hydrolock?
cracked head? Bad intake seal? Blown head gasket?
Water would have had to get into cylinder after stoping and siting for a while, because it was running fine before it was shut down and sat for a while?

 

[Lou C]

Before you take it apart why not do a cooling system Aire pressure test; it will tell you some of what you want to know. You know you have a stuck valve (water intrusion can cause this due to corrosion of the valve stems). But you don’t know where the water came from. You said you saw signs of water leaking on the outside of the mani/elbow joint but did you see any rust on the inside of the manifold runners that mate up with the exhaust ports? Any rust on the exhaust valves or ports when you pulled the manifold?
pS you can r&r the heads with the engine in the boat pretty easily if you have decent access; I did mine that way...

 

[Lou C]

As far as sources of water, there are many, could be a crack in a cyl head, leaking HG, or even a rotted intake although that usually puts water in the cam valley and in the oil.

 

[holorinhal]

Before you take it apart why not do a cooling system Aire pressure test; it will tell you some of what you want to know. You know you have a stuck valve (water intrusion can cause this due to corrosion of the valve stems). But you don’t know where the water came from. You said you saw signs of water leaking on the outside of the mani/elbow joint but did you see any rust on the inside of the manifold runners that mate up with the exhaust ports? Any rust on the exhaust valves or ports when you pulled the manifold?
pS you can r&r the heads with the engine in the boat pretty easily if you have decent access; I did mine that way...

My manifolds are aluminum and the risers are SS.
so no rust in manifold.
the inside of the manifold i couldn't tell if there had been any water inside the exhaust chamber.
i did not get a chance to look at exhaust valve through exhaust port, before i had to go to work.
And i cant see intake valve, until i pull intake manifold.
I am not quite sure how to do a cooling system air pressure test?
I will have to search for the method of doing that unless you or some one can point me in the right direction.

 

[holorinhal]

As far as sources of water, there are many, could be a crack in a cyl head, leaking HG, or even a rotted intake although that usually puts water in the cam valley and in the oil.

Also my intake manifold is Aluminum as well.

 

[vetting]

Any updates?

 

[holorinhal]

Any updates?

I just recently got time to get back to trying to figure this out.
I did look at the exhaust valve and while there is a little corrosion on the stem and back side of the valve tulip, doesn't seem any more than a engine that has ben running a while.
So with good compression in all cylinders except #6, I was going to do a leak down but decided I don't really care what the leakage percentage is as much as I want to know where its coming from. I got cyl 6 to td
I took the Schrader valve out of the compression tester and screwd it in cyl 6 and hooked up some air and.
air is blowing out of the carburetor, which tells me that the intake valve is leaking. I double checked tdc and to make sure both valves are closed and the same thing.
So just to make sure, I took off the rocker arm on the intake valve, to insure there was no pressure on the stem keeping the valve open and still blowing air out of the carb.
Made a tool to work the valve to see if maybe stuck, but it appeard to be moving up and down ok and closing.

 

[alldodge]

Its the valve or seat and doubt if you can do anything to make it seal. You can take a leather mallet or block of wood and hammer, then hit the valve some to make it bounce (not to overly hard)

 

[holorinhal]

I pulled the engine out of the boat and got it on the stand.
pulled the intake off. the valve is moving up and down. I saw no evidence of any thing that should be leaking. intake is in good shape and the gasket is completely intact.

went ahead and pulled the head off, and same thing. I see no evidence that the head gasket is blown around that cylinder or any where else. the cylinder looks fairly good just as good as the others.
gotta figure out how to post pictures from my phone.

 

[holorinhal]

Its the valve or seat and doubt if you can do anything to make it seal. You can take a leather mallet or block of wood and hammer, then hit the valve some to make it bounce (not to overly hard)

i completly agree and understand that there is something going on with the valve or seat to not let it seal but from just a visual inspection from the combustion chamber it all looks good. the valve does not apear to be off the seat, but the air came out hard when I was pumping it in like a major non seal.
whats even more puzzeling is how or where did the water get into the cylinder to begin with? cracked head?

 

[alldodge]

Pour some water in the intake side of the valve to see if it runs out around the valve or another place

 

[holorinhal]

Pour some water in the intake side of the valve to see if it runs out around the valve or another place

Well hell why didn't i think about that?!
lol, well i did pour water in the intake side and yes, the valve leaks like a sive?

i couldnt pull the valve out because my valve spring compressor isnt up to the task.
would like to take a look at it before i take it to a machine shop.

 

[holorinhal]

Pour some water in the intake side of the valve to see if it runs out around the valve or another place

well I did pour water in the intake port and for sure it is leaking like a sive!
I havnt found any thing else wrong, visually, that would have put water in the cylinder.
The head gasket looked good, the intake and gasket looked good.
The only thing visually different, is that one particular combustion chamber looks a little bit darker in color than the rest of the chambers.
I guess I wil get the head to the machine shop and have it checked for cracks and if all good a valve job. Just wonder if I should pull the other head and have it done too?

Idk, if the head is not cracked, the only thing I can figure is that, when we pulled up, that one flapper in the tip was stuck shut, water backed up in the riser and dumped some water down the manifold at that very second that the intake valve was opening or not fully closing and filled the cylinder to hydrolock. I didn't know any different, because at that same time, I turned off the ignition.
Freak accident or stars aligned for it to happen, idk!

 

[holorinhal]

How do I go about testing my manifolds and risers?
I have EMI Thunder thru hull exhaust. aluminum manifold with SS riser. dry joint.

 

[alldodge]

With EMI (I also have them) just plug the hose coming out of the man going into the elbow and pressurize. The pipe is just going to be a visual

Do suggest don't do just one head

 

[Lou C]

agreed I'd do both heads you are already half way there, get them checked out, and clean up your block deck surface really well and look at it with a magnifier, to see if you see any cracks. If not then I'd probably roll the dice and put it back together again. These engines are very simple and easy to take apart. Only other thing you can do is pull the block out too, and have it checked, but that's up to you...