When replacing a trailer hitch?

[wildmaninal]

I'm trying to fix up my bass boat trailer a little bit, I have a 15 ft tri hull on the trailer with an 85hp on it so I have some weight on the trailer. My old hitch was welded on, worn out, and was only a 1 7/8" ball size so I wanted to update also. My father seems to think that I would be alright just bolting the hitch on, which I had to drill holes in the trailer in order to bolt it on didn't like the thought of that because I'm thinking the holes can weaken the 2x3 tubing. But......I'm wondering if I should take the extra step and at least weld the hitch on as well.

Do YOU (is your hitch) just bolt the hitch on? or..... Do you weld your hitch to the trailer? or..... Do you bolt and weld the hitch?

I don't feel safe with just 2 (maybe 7/16" to 1/2") bolts holding the hitch on. I also would dread having to replace the hitch if I did weld it on. Thought about tack welding the nut to the bolt as well where the nut can't come loose.

Just wondering what steps you would take. Should I be alright with just the bolts? Yes I have a safety chain.

 

[Bass_boy7]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

My hitch on my bass boat trailer is welded on, I want to also bolt it but I just haven't gotten around to doing it.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

Bolted is fine as long as you use top quality bolts and hardware.

 

[CumminsTurbo22]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

Bolted is fine as long as you use top quality bolts and hardware.

i agree

 

[flycaster]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

My hitch on my bass boat trailer is welded on, I want to also bolt it but I just haven't gotten around to doing it.

Is this not like wearing a belt and suspenders to hold up your trousers ???

 

[wildmaninal]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

Thanks for the replies guys. I honestly couldn't tell ya the grade bolts I installed, I'll half to look and see if they have a grade mark on them. I do know that I didn't have long enough bolts to just put the lock washers on then put the nut on so I am going to half to tighten the bolts down with the impact wrench and see if I can't squeeze it together enough to get the lock washers on and re-tighten the nuts.

Sounds like I might just go with the nuts and bolts, might just use some loctite on them as well as using the lock washers.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

Why not use longer bolts and cut the extra length off rather than squashing the coupler and the tongue and perhaps bind things up. My trailer couplers on all of my Shorelander trailers are all bolted, not welded on. Using proper hardware there is no need for welding. Nylon insert locking nuts or standard hardware with lockwashers will do nicely. Just like a tree or a pipe, 90% of the strength is in the outer part of the pipe or tree so adding two bolt holes does not weaken the structure.

 

[wildmaninal]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

I'll most likely half to buy longer bolts anyway because I don't think I'll get that extra 2 to 3 threads to start those nuts on. Plus I won't be using but half the nut by the time I end up getting it tightened, most likely if I did get the lock washers on.

What grade bolt should I look out for?

OK you talked me out of doing that silvertip, Thanks for the input.

 

[Shizzy]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

keep in mind if its just bolted on and you have a tongue lock on it a theif can just unbolt yours and bolt on his and hook your boat up.

mine is welded on.

 

[bigadam]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

your hitch on your vehicle just has 1 9/16th pin holding the hitch in so your 2 1/2" bolts wont be the weak point.... just use atleast a grade 5 bolt [3 marks on the head] and bolt it on!

 

[wildmaninal]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

Bigadam Thanks

Shizzy There isn't many places that I launch that I half to worry about thiefs. Maybe one place and that is unguarded, the other places is either guarded or is my uncle's lot that has people living near by that keep a watch on it. Plus it is way off the main road so it is hard to tell what is there from looking from the road.

 

[109jb]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

your hitch on your vehicle just has 1 9/16th pin holding the hitch in so your 2 1/2" bolts wont be the weak point.... just use atleast a grade 5 bolt [3 marks on the head] and bolt it on!

A Class I/II hitch pin is 1/2" diameter (up to 3,500 lb load, 1-1/4" square receiver). A Class III/IV hitch pin is 5/8" diameter (up to 12,000 lb load, 2" square receiver). A Class V hitch pin is 3/4" diameter (up to 15,000 lb load, 2-1/2" receiver). I've never seen a 9/16" hitch pin for a receiver hitch.

 

[marquette]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

before you start crushing the tongue to get the nuts tight you need to give them something to tighten against. after you take the old coupler off measure the inside of the tongue and cut your self some spacers out of pipe,conduit or whatever you have to go around your bolts and brace the tongue so it won't crush. now when you put those class 5 bolts through you are tightening steel to steel with no air gap. you can tighten them as tight as you can get them with a 24in breaker bar and not break a class 5. (unless it is chinese made then it is really just a soft steel bolt with a gold color and class 5 marking) if you don't give the nuts something to tighten hard against they will never stay tight no matter what kind of lock nuts or washers you use. the tubing will continue to crush with use and the nuts will appear to have come loose. some hardware stores sell spacers where they have there bolt selection but i never find exactly the right length so i just make my own. your coupler was welded on not for strength but for quicker easier less expensive manufacturing.

 

[dingbat]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

Other than to save a couple of bucks, I could never see why they welded the coupler to the tongue. If you're worried about theft tack weld one of the nuts to a bolt. It's much easier to grind off a nut than to grind off the entire coupler.

FWIW: My trailer is rated for 6K lbs and the actuator is held on using 3- 1/2"-13 UNC Grade 5 bolts with lock washers and nyloc nuts. To accommodate tightening the hardware to the proper torque they used shaft spacers (1/2? ID galvanized pipe) between the tubes. I have no problems at all with this setup.

 

[wildmaninal]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

Alright, I'm sure I can find some kind of metal pipe to cut for spacers to place in the 2x3 inch tubing. Darn rain .

 

[reelfishin]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

Most of the trailers I have here are bolted with two 1/2" bolts, most have no grade markings at all. Keep in mind that tongue and coupler are nothing more than stamped sheet metal and aren't hard enough to sheer the bolts off.
The idea is to tighten just enough to prevent movement, you don't have to over torque the bolts, just a little more than snug using nylon locking nuts.
Like mentioned above, if theft is a concern, tack weld one of the nuts.
Some pretty heavy trailers still use only two 1/2" diameter bolts. None that I have here use a tube to prevent crushing, although it would be a good idea.

 

[mthieme]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

I have trailers with both scenarios.
The bigger better built trailers are bolted on.

 

[djvan]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

About the 5/8 pin that holds the receiver in the hitch, it does not support the whole load of whats being towed. The tongue weight helps utilize the square tube to support the towed load. (if that makes sense)

Think of it this way, if you have a snug fitting receiver try to pull the receiver to one side or the other and then try to pull it out. Now try to pull it out without putting the side load on it. Should pull out easier than with the side load. Same thing happens when tongue weight is applied. Can you tow without a pin? NO, but the pin doesn't support the whole weight of the trailer when being towed.

DougV>

 

[wildmaninal]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

Well I got it together, I went down and bought (2) 1/2" grade 8 bolts long enough to do the job along with (2) locking nuts from our local Fastenal. Only cost me around $7.

I did use loctite on the bolts, I did not use any spacers, might do that later on, I did not use an impact to tighten the bolts down. I'll say this much, I don't think it will be coming loose. Should be nice to have the use of the new hitch. I don't have a tow package, the ball is mounted on the bumper, makes for a heck of a time unhooking and hooking the boat up because my 2006 F-150 sets so high.

Thanks for the replies. As you can tell I have never replaced a hitch before.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: When replacing a trailer hitch?

And if it is welded on you need to cut the old one off to replace it in the future and besides, all one needs to do is spin off the yoke adjustment nut and he can drive off with your rig anyway. Granted, it won't be latched, but the rig would likely be towed only a few miles to a point where a transfer can be made to another trailer, the other one abandoned or fixed and resold. If you feel welding is necessary, weld the nuts not the coupler.