whoops

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Aratsman

Seaman
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Messages
62
Re: whoops

If it was me, I don't trust anything I mix in a cup. If it was put together and you would have to take it apart, I would say JB Weld., unitl the next impeller change, then have it welded. Since it's apart and easily taken to a welder, have it welded. They can grind it smooth, and you give it a fresh coat of paint. Good as new.
 
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F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: whoops

You are doing most everything bass-ackwards. You should disconnect the shift cable at the powerhead to remove the lower unit---not at the solenoids. Wait till you get your book and do it right.

But at this point you should assemble the solenoids and make sure the plunger height is correct. Test the ohms with everything in place, but disconnected.
 
A

Aratsman

Seaman
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Messages
62
Re: whoops

Aratsman said:
Check and make sure that you are getting a connection to the solenoid with the green wire. .8ohm still is not a good sign. I would think between 5-7 ohms would show a good coil. Make a good inspection of the wiring and coil before you order it. Could be something simple.
Click to expand...

F_R said:
You are doing most everything bass-ackwards. You should disconnect the shift cable at the powerhead to remove the lower unit---not at the solenoids. Wait till you get your book and do it right.

But at this point you should assemble the solenoids and make sure the plunger height is correct. Test the ohms with everything in place, but disconnected.
Click to expand...

I agree. I did recommend rechecking before ordering. It sounds like it could still be a weak connection at the solenoid or a shorted out coil. I made the mistake recently of jumping to conclusions on my electramatic. Bought a bunch of seals to rebuild the gearcase without doing a tear-down first. Spent almost $100 before I found out that all the expensive parts were missing, i.e. shift coils and springs, @$300 a set, I now own a set of seals that I don't need. I ended up getting a stronger, larger used lower unit. Testing before ordering to be certain of the problem will save alot of headaches and save money too.
 
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gazza2007au

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
429
Re: whoops

ok thanks guys i pulled the solenoids out today i snapped one of the solenoid cover bolts so i will need to get that fixed i tested the solenoids and one came back as bad 0.4 Ohm the other was reading 6.0 Ohm and than i removed the thermostat cover to find there is no thermostat and there is minimal amounts of salt so what could be stopping the motor pumping water?
 

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A

Aratsman

Seaman
Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Messages
62
Re: whoops

Have you tried to put water through it now? Are you getting flow out? Without a thermostat, the motor will never cool properly. The water never has a chance to stay in the block long enough to transfer any heat. It is possible, but rare that the exhaust adapter is plugged if you are getting good flow through the head. Sounds like you found the problem with the shifting. A short to ground would cause a drop in voltage "dim light" when you were testing.

I'm not sure about your year, and maybe someone can chime in, but your not going to get alot of water out of the exhaust hole. It is more of a mist that gets a bit heavier when the thermostat opens. My '67 mists out the exhaust hole.
 
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gazza2007au

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
429
Re: whoops

yeah i have had many outboards over the years mostly all old motors but this motor i wasnt even getting a drop from the exhaust ports so today i looked into this a little more with the lower unit off of the motor i placed the flushing muffs on the lower unit turned on the water and guess what no water was coming up and out of the water pump hole i was also using full water pressure i than squeezed the muffs from both sides and water came up and out of the water pump hole i couldnt do this while the motor was running due to forward gear being default so thats the problem with my motor not pumping water the muffs are near new but a year old and have been sitting in my shed i thought since the muff was out of direct sun light it would have been good to use i even tried squeezing the metal bend more so the two ears push together and it still didnt work so i will purchase another muff for flushing and see how i go there are no cracks in the rubber the muff looks new i think the problem is the cheap material its made from the black plastic ear sections has gone hard over time and is not sealing up the intakes properly
 
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chrome dome

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Messages
303
Re: whoops

in the last few days l've had a similiar problem with muffs,
motor pumped saltwater fine all day a week ago but wouldn't flush on the ears when l got home, thought the impeller/thermostat was cactus..would fix it soon..
in the meantime had to pick up a motor for my son, it had a set of muffs as well as other stuff,
today tried flushing again with my muffs...nuthin'
as silly as it seems l decided to try the other set..bingo!..discharged more water than a Yarra River ferry..lol
as an 'experiment' switched the donk off straight away and stuck on the 'old' muffs..nuthin
put the 'new" set on again and.. bingo..away it went again,

have retired the dodgy muffs,
stranger than Dame Edna Everage of Moonee Ponds
 
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gazza2007au

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
429
Re: whoops

forgot to ask while i have the lower unit off i would like to replace the lower unit oil seals can someone give me a list of seals/part numbers? as the oil was milky

chrome dome said:
in the last few days l've had a similiar problem with muffs,
motor pumped saltwater fine all day a week ago but wouldn't flush on the ears when l got home, thought the impeller/thermostat was cactus..would fix it soon..
in the meantime had to pick up a motor for my son, it had a set of muffs as well as other stuff,
today tried flushing again with my muffs...nuthin'
as silly as it seems l decided to try the other set..bingo!..discharged more water than a Yarra River ferry..lol
as an 'experiment' switched the donk off straight away and stuck on the 'old' muffs..nuthin
put the 'new" set on again and.. bingo..away it went again,

have retired the dodgy muffs,
stranger than Dame Edna Everage of Moonee Ponds
Click to expand...

haha
 
T

toey77

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 12, 2008
Messages
158
Re: whoops

gazza2007au said:
it got the better of me so i went to check with the multimeter the GREEN wire is reading .8 OHM now the BLUE is reading 5.4 OHM i just paid for a evinrude manual online and downloaded it to see how to change the solenoid it seems to be pretty simple but how do the solenoids wire attach to the cover? and im looking at the solenoid cable and cover assy part number 0384459 i looked this part up on ebay minus the first 0 and one came up including the wire,cover,both solenoids for $200 where as crowleys marine is charging $150 for the solenoid cable and cover assy is this the same items?
Click to expand...


what site did you download your manual on i am having trouble finding a manual that will be reliable and well priced. for my 71 evinrude 100hp. can get a book from the states but shipping is twice what the book costs
 
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gazza2007au

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
429
Re: whoops

i have the clymers manual for my motor and it shows hardly anything i got my PDF file copy from www.tradebit.com instant download after paypal payment made and the PDF file goes right into every little thing in detail well worth the money i paid and less than 1/3rd the price of the clymer manual
 
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gazza2007au

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
429
Re: whoops

im still waiting for my ebay order to be sent out so i asked if they can send it express post hopefully they can im inpatient :p i also called a local boat shop who i have been seeing for well over 10 years to see if they have the premium lube he said no and he normally has everything for older engines maybe its just to costly these days to keep in stock? so my mechanic/boat guy said to use automatic transmission fluid in the lower unit has anyone else tried this?
i also have the accident holes repaired and the snapped bolt removed
 
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gazza2007au

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
429
Re: whoops

the dealer who told me to use ATF is a johnson/evinrude dealer so i think the premium blend isnt available over here :(
 
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gazza2007au

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
429
Re: whoops

i went into the australian johnson/evinrude importer while i was there waiting to pick up the thermostat cover gasket and drain plug washers i looked at the huge range of oils and spotted the premium blend oil its a bit pricey at USD$12.50 16oz/473mls i wasnt thinking so i only grabbed one bottle probably not enough? so since ATF is half the price i will use ATF to test the lower unit once the solenoid parts arrive if the lower unit doesnt leak i will replace it with the premium blend if it does leak its only half the price loosing the ATF
 
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gazza2007au

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
429
Re: whoops

parts arrived today from the USA to Australia it came with all parts except the wavy washer which mine is still good and no gasket so i will pick one up tomorrow the included instructions are not the best the paper is weathered like it was printed out in 1971 lol when opening the folded paper it was crinkly maybe the paper alone is worth a few dollars haha do u guys think the plungers need a clean with steel wool as they have surface rust or will they be ok to install?
 

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gazza2007au

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
429
Re: whoops

finally got the engine back together with the new solenoids in the lower unit i fired up the engine and all F-N-R all work all though when the engine is not running its stuck in gear once started i click the neutral button and it goes into neutral thanks for everyones help much appreciated
 
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