Winterization Question

[pmergler]

Hey everyone, I completed my winterization today for the first time on my own and had a couple questions. I live in Ohio, so the weather can get very cold here. I completed last year's winterization along with the help of someone. We replaced the lower unit lube and impeller.

I didn't replace the lower unit lube this year because I only got the boat out 4 times this year :-( I plan on doing new gear lube for sure next year, but I think I will be okay with only 4 trips on this lower unit lube.

I read many posts here to help and they have all been great! I am 90% sure I want to fill the engine with RV anti-freeze. I think I want to do it just because it will be stored in a non-climate controlled large barn. I have already drained the engine block and manifold. From what I gather, I should buy RV anti-freeze. Questions:
1) Do I use this 100% or do I need to mix 50/50 with water?
2) Then I just disconnect hoses and pour the anti-freeze down the hoses till it starts coming out of the drain holes? I am thinking that I need to pour AF down hoses number 1,2,3 and 4 in the attached picture? Can someone please confirm for me?


Also, I didn't take the spark plugs off and spray them and the plug hole with fogging oil. Is this important, should I do this? How often is it recommended to change spark plugs? Every year?

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: Winterization Question

I too live in Ohio and have never messed with antifreeze, I just drain the water, I always get about 4-1/2 gals of water from the block and manifolds, it's important to know the drains have to be clear.

 

[Brew2]

Re: Winterization Question

Changing the lower unit lube isn't just for "renewing" the lube....it is necessary to ensure you don't have any water mixed in with the lower unit oil.

If one of the seals on your lower unit wasn't 100%, then even one use during the summer could have let in some water. If that turns out to be the case, get ready to buy a new lower unit in the spring as the water will freeze/expand and bust it open. Pretty common occurance in my neck of the woods where it has already been below freezing for several weeks at night.

Take the 20 minutes to change the lower unit lube now and sleep well over the winter knowing everything will be A-OK in the spring.

 

[enginesilo]

Re: Winterization Question

I'm also curious to know which tubes to pour the anti-freeze down. My guess was 1,2,3, and 4. Do you pull the drain plugs and let the water drain, and then replace the plugs and then pour the anti-freeze in?

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: Winterization Question

Changing the lower unit lube isn't just for "renewing" the lube....it is necessary to ensure you don't have any water mixed in with the lower unit oil.

If one of the seals on your lower unit wasn't 100%, then even one use during the summer could have let in some water. If that turns out to be the case, get ready to buy a new lower unit in the spring as the water will freeze/expand and bust it open. Pretty common occurance in my neck of the woods where it has already been below freezing for several weeks at night.

Take the 20 minutes to change the lower unit lube now and sleep well over the winter knowing everything will be A-OK in the spring.

If there's enough water in the lower unit to freeze and bust than it's probably already shot. But in a sense yes your right about changing the oil in the lower but you can inspect the oil for water without draining it, all you have to do loosen the drain screw for a sample.
Good luck with the antifreeze.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Winterization Question

Do you pull the drain plugs and let the water drain, and then replace the plugs

Ayuh,.... And lightly coat the threads with Grease....

I don't do Antifreeze,..
But, pouring it in 1,2,3,+4 will only insure the P/S Cooler,+ the Circulating pump will Survive....

Into the Block, is through the T-Stat......

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Winterization Question

Remove the two plugs on the manifolds and two on the block. Dump some AF into hoses 1+2 and see it emerge from the manifold drains. Do the same for hoses 5+6. Use straight antifreeze. I use the cheapest automotive stuff. Install the manifold plugs, and fill manifold until some AF emerges from prop.

Now dump AF down the large hose (removed at the thermostat housing) and see it emerge from the block drains. if it comes out one drain, install that plug and watch for it to emerge from the other drain. Install that plug and fill the block. It will come out the raw water hose, when the block is full. Antifreeze down the raw water hose will emerge at the water intakes on the OD, after it chases the water out of the PS cooler.

Your 4.3LX should take about 4 Gal to completely winterize. You can catch any that emerges from the prop, boat bilge and water intakes, and dispose of it properly. Next spring, you should be able to recover and reuse 3+ gallons. I put a container under the bilge drain and capture it.

 

[pmergler]

Re: Winterization Question

Chris 1956...great help. Thank you.

So if I have it correct, disconnect hose 1&2 at T-Stat and pour into manifolds with the plugs out. Then put back in plugs and pour till coming out of hose. Then reconnect 1&2 to T-Stat.

Then disconnect 5&6 from end connected to the engine block under the engine plastic carb cover? Then repeat as above? Where is this fluid going to go, still the manifold? This sill NOT get the block, correct?

Do I need to pour anything down 3 or 4?

 

[Lou C]

Re: Winterization Question

I won't advise on the hoses since I don't have a Merc but as far as the antifreeze goes...don't use automotive antifreeze...its very toxic and no matter what you do you will get it on the ground when you re-commission the boat. I use the -100 stuff which gives freeze protection to about -54 and has corrosion inhibitors in it...I also pour in a little with the drain plugs out and you can actually see the AF push the rusty water out and then you see the AF...I fill the block/heads through the big hose on the front circulation pump (with it attached on the bottom end) same thing with manifolds (fill till you hear it spill out the exhaust) and I also fill the raw water intake hose till it runs out the water intakes on the drive. Keep in mind all this is after proper draining and probing drain holes to clear rust flakes...Just did mine today because out weather is iffy this time of year and today was a beautiful 70 degree day in Long Island....Sat will be wind driven rain....2-3 in worth...who knows what next weekend will bring...

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Winterization Question

The risers should be connected to the manifolds, so hoses 1+3 and 2+4 should be internally connected. I would dump some AF into each, watching to see it emerge from the manifold drain, just to make sure I got all the water out. The passage fromt he manifold to the riser is pretty small, so I guess it could get clogged with rust, although I have never seen that.

Disconnect the top end of the large waterpump hose, and you may fill the block thru it. The AF will emerge from the thermostat housing, when the block is full. A bit of water down the rew water hose, will flush out the PS cooler and water pump impeller in the OD.

 

[boatingnva]

Re: Winterization Question

I asked almost the exact question about my Merc 5.0, look about 10 posts down. So, to get a/f into the block I dont need to pull the t/stat housing, just the large hose from the starboard side of the t/stat housing? I really dont want to pull the housing if I dont need to.