Winterizing Question

rutcutter

Seaman
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
51
It is about time to put the toon up for the winter. This first summer with it was great. It has a 2005 Mercury 50 HP 2 stroke Classic. Can someone advise me on how to change the oil in the lower unit and what oil to use?
I would also appreciate any other advice on winterizing.
Thanks.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: Winterizing Question

You pull the drain and vent plug on the lower unit and allow the oil to drain. You then head to WalMart, Kmart, Cabelas, BassPro, or any sporting goods or farm store that sells boating supplies and buy a quart of -- what else -- "lower unit lub" (Quicksilver or Mercury branded will do). To make this simpler, also buy the pump that screws onto the lub bottle so you can pump the fluid into the LOWER hole. Add fluid until it comes out the top (vent) hole. Then isnert the top plug. Remove the pump and insert the lower plug.

Then add Stabil or SeaFoam fuel system treatment and run the engine (on muffs) long enough to get the treated fuel into the engine. For peace of mind you could also FOG the engine following directions on the can of -- what else -- "Fogging Oil". Remove the battery and store it inside. Charge it once a month or so. Yes -- it is ok to store the battery on a concrete floor.

Put the vessel to bed.
 

Silver Eagle

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 16, 2010
Messages
852
Re: Winterizing Question

or for about $150.00 you can take it to Mercury authorized dealer and have them winterize your motor. that way if they screw up, it's on them. That's what I do. And I drain the tank all the way. And they will take care to run the carbs dry too. You don't want that fuel in the carbs over the winter.
 

anple

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2010
Messages
97
Re: Winterizing Question

To dry the carbs, I ran the engine with the fuel line disconnected (sta-bil ethanol treated fuel) when it started to stall from lacking of fuel, I quickly sprayed fogging oil into each carbs until the engine to shut down. To fog the pistons, with the engine shut down, I removed spark plugs to spray fogging oil onto each cylinders and manually rotated the flywheel for the oil to reach the pistons. Then reinstalled sparkplugs.
 

EGlideRider

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Dec 14, 2008
Messages
1,000
Re: Winterizing Question

Hmmm. Can't help you on this one. Here in South Florida, the only winterization we do is to throw a few lap blankets on the boat. LOL.
 

Cubbyblue22

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
220
Re: Winterizing Question

I hear so many different opinions when winterizing a 2 stroke motor to either run the motor w/stabilizer till your empty with gas, or to leave it run w/stabilizer for 5 min. with gas still in it and shut it off. I can see the advantages of both but I want to know what most people are thinking and their thoughts. Thanks
 

kmarine

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
591
Re: Winterizing Question

I recomend runnig small carbureated engines out of fuel. not efi models. This will minimise fuel seperation of fuel because most of it will be gone. you can also fog through spark plug holes if you want. Everyone has a reason or different opinion on this issue. the choice is yours.
 

lmuss53

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 9, 2008
Messages
1,227
Re: Winterizing Question

I am a guy who does not run his older 2 stroke out of fuel. I don't like the idea of running the fuel out because I don't like to run the internal parts of the motor out of lube. I put Stabil in the tank, run the tank down low and fog the motor, either while in the water running or with the plugs out and not running at home. I top off in the spring with fresh gas and go back to running. I've done this with probably ten 50 to 90 HP motors since the middle 70's without ever having a major engine problem, or having any problems starting out in the spring.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: Winterizing Question

Lets apply a little logic to the "run the carbs dry" scenario. Adding fuel system stabilizer to the fuel and running the engine to get the stuff into the fuel system is a no brainer. Treated fuel won't go bad over the winter. However, running the carbs dry sort of defeats the purpose of running the engine to get the stuff into the fuel system. It won't be there if you run the system dry. Next -- you CANNOT run the carbs dry. The engine quits before they are completely empty so that's a misconception. Look at it this way -- No air/no fouling. If you feel you must drain the carbs use the drain plug if it has one. Otherwise, treat the fuel, run it long enough to get the fuel into the engine, then fog to kill the engine. Done -- put it to bed. Change the lower unit lube BEFORE doing the engine shut down process.
 

Cubbyblue22

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
220
Re: Winterizing Question

Thanks Muss....I think that's the way I was going to go so you put the seal on the deal lol. Another quick question, what's an EFI model??
 

lncoop

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
5,147
Re: Winterizing Question

Otherwise, treat the fuel, run it long enough to get the fuel into the engine, then fog to kill the engine. Done -- put it to bed. Change the lower unit lube BEFORE doing the engine shut down process.

That's how I do it. Works like a charm.
 

jp10

Seaman
Joined
Oct 30, 2009
Messages
55
Re: Winterizing Question

Why change lower unit lube BEFORE engine shut down? I think I experienced the answer this first year of boat ownership.
 
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