Work Begins Soon

[*EdC*]

Re: Work Begins Soon

Guys
Moller makes a flairing tool just for them. When I did mine, I left the lowest one long. 5200 works, but Life Caulk is what I used

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Work Begins Soon

Thanks Ed! It turns out it's called a flange tool. Because of that it took me a while to find it , but I think this is the tool:

http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermarket/livewell_baitwell/flanging_tools

Iboats sells it here:

http://www.iboats.com/1_Flanging_To...1125460--**********.198970896--view_id.166824

I don't think I can justify spending $36 on a tool I'm going to use once, maybe twice in my life. I think I'll try to rig my own version up (broom handle rotated clockwise & a ball peen hammer ), unless someone wants to loan me theirs. In the back of my mind I already know I'm going to break down and buy it!

BOB

 

[rsp95]

Re: Work Begins Soon

Great job with your transom. What did you use to get it that clean? WOW!!! You can eat off that thing.

 

[matt9923]

Re: Work Begins Soon

I haven't been around in a while, works been surprisingly busy.
Its rained 84 out of the last 88 days is what i heard last week up here in CT.
So i haven't been out as much and the fishing is all messed up with the river rising and falling flushing out the fish.
last time i had to flush the fuel system and clean the pump to get it to stay running. It was sitting for a month.... That's life
Matt

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Work Begins Soon

Great job with your transom. What did you use to get it that clean? WOW!!! You can eat off that thing.

I think that may be an optical illusion. I did wash the inside with acetone once I got all of the wood out, but I'll need to do it again prior to pouring the Seacast.

matt9923 - It's good to hear from ya! Hopefully the rain there will end soon as I'm headed to Massachusetts on Saturday for 2 weeks. It can rain after I leave.

BOB

 

[rsp95]

Re: Work Begins Soon

I'm curious, can you tell me how you washed the inside with acetone? Did you pour it into a spray bottle? Just trying to get as many tips as I can. Thanks.

 

[Mark_VTfisherman]

Re: Work Begins Soon

...%...I purposely bought ones that were longer than I needed so I could cut them to the length I need. Do you think I should cut them a little long and try to flare the cut ends?...%...should I install the tubes before I pour the Seacast... %....

Bob- the best thing I ever did was to epoxy in my tubes! I would install with marine epoxy around the flared ends, and not worry about the other ends. Then do the seacast after curing of the tubes. My hull-bottom tube I cut to only about an inch and drilled 3/16 weep holes on the bottom so as little water as possible would linger. 5200 is great and probably the "right" way but I use my boat to go fishing so much that I was re-doing it every year. The epoxy seems rather dependable, and no leaks!

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Work Begins Soon

I'm curious, can you tell me how you washed the inside with acetone? Did you pour it into a spray bottle? Just trying to get as many tips as I can. Thanks.

Hi rsp95 - I actually used duct tape to attach a cloth diaper to the end of a yardstick. Then I saturated the diaper with acetone and wiped down the inner skins. It worked really well and only used about half a bottle of acetone.

Don't forget the respirator! Hope this helps.

BOB

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Work Begins Soon

My hull-bottom tube I cut to only about an inch and drilled 3/16 weep holes on the bottom so as little water as possible would linger.

Hi Mark - I'm definitely going to install them before I pour the Seacast. I think I'm going to use 5200 and hope that the Seacast forms a good enough seal to prevent leaks. I'm not sure I understand where you drilled the 3/16" holes though.

On to the motor - I finally was able to get the upper mounting pin out of the tilt assist cylinder. Turns out that the previous owner used a different sized pin that was too big. Instead of getting the right sized pin, he just hammered it in! Whatever, it's out now!

I then put a wanted ad on craigslist for a used cylinder and associated hardware and got a response from a really cool guy in Richmond that had just installed power t/t on his 50hp. He sold me the cylinder, cables, and all mounting hardware he took off of his for $40! The next cheapest one I found was $270 and was sold "as is". Anyway, I got it home and had it installed in 15 minutes. Now the Westfield's power is ready to be installed, so I have no more excuses not to finish the transom.

Oh well, here are some pictures of the "n"used parts installed and one of the old broken parts.

BOB

 

[Rockaway-Matt]

Re: Work Begins Soon

Hey Bob -

I'm totally impressed with your MFG knowledge and work - great job!!
I am totally new at the boating world. I was lucky enough to get my hands on a 1964 MFG NIAGARA and I just put her in the water. I want to install a bilge pump but can not find any access to below the floor. Is there access?? Do I need a bilge pump?? Any feedback would be awesome. Thanks for the help. - Matt

 

[Mark_VTfisherman]

Re: Work Begins Soon

Hi Mark.....I'm not sure I understand where you drilled the 3/16" holes though

I cut the lower tube to about an inch in length and then drilled the holes (two or three of them close together) near the exterior end of the brass tube. Then I epoxied it in place (with paste) and oriented the holes towards the bottom. Anything that might be in there comes almost 100% out when I pull the plug.

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Work Begins Soon

Hey Bob -

I'm totally impressed with your MFG knowledge and work - great job!!
I am totally new at the boating world. I was lucky enough to get my hands on a 1964 MFG NIAGARA and I just put her in the water. I want to install a bilge pump but can not find any access to below the floor. Is there access?? Do I need a bilge pump?? Any feedback would be awesome. Thanks for the help. - Matt

Hi Matt - I can almost guarantee you that I'm the wrong person to ask! I wish I could help you, but I'm stuck worrying about what lays below my own decks. I guess if I had to provide a solution I'd say to cut an access hatch in your floor to install the bilge pump...or...you know, your boat's survived for 40+ years without a bilge pump, so unless you're planning on mooring it or putting it in a slip I can't see a reason to add one now.

Again, I really don't know any more than you on the subject and I think the best thing you could do is to start a new post in these MFG forums. It's amazing how much knowledge is contained herein.

- BOB

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: Work Begins Soon

I know theres alot of talk on this subject in a couple different threads and I've replied, but here I go again.
I can stick my finger into that lower plug hole and with the tip of finger reach all the way to the bottom. I took a rubber bumper (like the ones that go on a typical shock absorber) held it tight over the hole and inserted my blow nozzle off the air compressor, I gave it about 20lbs of pressure and found a couple leaks where my seat bases are attached and a couple small leaks where a battery tray was once screwed down. I fixed the leaks and now she's air tight.
I also took a 2" hole saw and opened a couple inspection holes, no foam at all in my 67' the deck is fiberglass with gelcoat finish, the cracks in the gelcoat are superficial.
I would not suggest to try turning the lower air space into a bilge but rather seal it air tight then even if you tore open the hull on a rock or something your boat would still be afloat, if anything you could just set a bilge pump near the rear plug.

 

[Rockaway-Matt]

Re: Work Begins Soon

Thank you everyone for the replies. I will try some of your suggestions.
I really appreciate the help. You all are the best! - Rockaway-Matt

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Work Begins Soon

I have questions I need help with guys! As I've posted here my original plan was to use Seacast to repair my transom, but recent financial constraints have put this off for a while. Yesterday I was reading through a post that involved a product called Nida-Bond. Has anyone ever heard of, or better yet, used this product? After filling out the transom calculator template to find out how much I'd need I also found out it would cost less the 1/2 what the Seacast would - . Here's a link to the marine page of their website:

http://www.nida-core.com/english/nordprod_nidabond_transom.htm

I'm going to call them on Monday, but wanted to see if there was anyone here with first hand experience using this product. Any information you can give me will be very helpful. I really hope this is a viable option due to the reduced cost and I'll follow up after I talk to a representative from Nida-Bond.

BOB

 

[*EdC*]

Re: Work Begins Soon

Hi Bob,
From what I have read, (mostly iBoats) it's a good product. I contacted them when I was researching transom products. I wasn't impressed. Called the dealer in Connecticut, He didn't know what I was talking about. Didn't have it, and if I wanted it, I would have to pay the shipping from FLA to his business and then to me Talked to the factory. The guy seemed to be too busy to answer my questions. Nidia Core does alot with core board and the like, for major boat builders. Maybe they just don't want to deal with some Do it yourselfer