Worst Captain ever?

utfyrfytr

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 14, 2014
Messages
195
Ok, I'll admit it I must be the worst Captain ever. I need some suggestions to help me load my boat at the ramp. A little background. The boat is an aluminum 17 foot 1968 Crestliner Nordic deep V that I have been working on for a couple of years. I found a trailer that had an old 70's model fiberglass boat that I took to the dump. After dumping the boat I realized the keel rollers were welded and not adjustable. When I placed my boat on the trailer most of the rollers didn't even touch the keel. To fix that I purchased a set of adjustable keel roller brackets and drilled the frame and installed them so they are all carrying weight and then adjusted the bunks up to where the boat was sitting approximately level on the trailer. Each time I get ready to load it, it becomes a circus, and I can't say it is the same problem every time, although it does seem that after I finally get it loaded it is setting more to the port side than centered, maybe an inch on the transom roller. Now this is my first boat and I am "OLD" but I have always been good with machinery and such and this is driving me crazy. I don't know if I need to make some adjustments to the rollers and bunks or just need to figure out placement of the trailer in the water when ready to load. I'm hoping I can get a few pointers that will help until I can get it dialed in. It ruins a good day of fishing knowing I'm going to have to fight loading the boat when I get back to the dock. To recap the boat is 17', and the trailer has keel rollers with carpeted bunks and it also has two guide on poles on the rear of the trailer. If there is a reason for some pictures let me know and I can get some if you tell me what you need. Thanks to all for your help.
 

NYBo

Admiral
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Oct 23, 2008
Messages
7,107
Yes, pictures would help.

The mot frequent reason for having a problem centering the boat on the trailer is backing the trailer too far/deep. But there might be some adjustment you can make on the trailer itself. For example, these might help:
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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first, with a roller trailer, dont back in so far

also, with loading and unloading, go to the ramp on a slow day and practice.
 

briangcc

Commander
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Jul 10, 2012
Messages
2,394
Without pictures I agree you're probably backing in too far/deep. With my trailers I usually go with the bunks 3/4 under water. This would leave the remaining 1/4 length sitting out and dry. You have to winch it a bit more but the boat self centers - every time.

Start there and either go deeper or shallower depending on your conditions and trailer setup.
 

poconojoe

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All good advice. I will also emphasize that how deep you dunk your trailer is key to proper retrieval. Last week there was a family having trouble retrieving. The problem was the trailer was in too deep and the stern of the boat was floating out of control.
It's all practice and getting to know your rig. As someone suggested, go to the ramp on a weekday and practice when there's less activity. Unless there's something really wrong with your setup, you will become a pro with practice.
 

poconojoe

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Your boat needs to be floated onto the trailer so that it's completely sitting on all the bunks and rollers, not floating uncontrollably. Leave 2-3 feet between the bow of the boat and the front trailer roller. Then use your winch to pull it in the rest of the way. Again, depth of trailer is key.
 

fishrdan

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Jan 25, 2008
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Agree with the others, trailer is probably too deep.

Once you figure out what depth loads well, figure out a reference mark, so you can repeat it every time. On my 18'er, I back the trailer in until water is barely lapping at the tops of the fenders, glide the boat onto the tralier (1mph???) and it pushes up almost at the bowmount. On my 14'er, back tips of the bunks at the waters edge, then I have to crank the boat up 5', any deeper and I have soggy shoes.
 

poconojoe

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What fishrdan said. Especially the reference point on your trailer. They're all different. My friend's trailer's reference point is with just the tops of the fenders dry, while mine is how much the front bunks are sticking out. And at that position my fenders are actually submerged. So once you get the trailer right, just pick an easy reference point for repeat retrievals.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Back roller should be HALF submerged.------As boat comes up the trailer you can back in a few feet at a time to make cranking easier.-----I used to go to a boat ramp on Saturdays just for the entertainment value.
 

fishrdan

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I used to go to a boat ramp on Saturdays just for the entertainment value.

I once watched a dude crank his boat on the trailer, trailer tires 2-3' from the water's edge, with the bow barely hitting the back roller, before the keel hit the ramp. The boat was 45* up into the air, half way up the keel, balancing on the back roller, before it broke over and slammed down onto the trailer. Never seen anyone load a boat like that before, or after.......
 

MTboatguy

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Your trailer is to deep allowing the stern to float around to much when you are trying to get it on the trailer, also pick up a set of self centering keel rollers they make life a lot easier. It takes practice to do it right and get everything centered.
 

JimS123

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Your boat needs to be floated onto the trailer so that it's completely sitting on all the bunks and rollers, not floating uncontrollably. Leave 2-3 feet between the bow of the boat and the front trailer roller. Then use your winch to pull it in the rest of the way. Again, depth of trailer is key.

Read that and then read it twice. That is the worst advice anyone in the world could ever give you. Then read #9 and follow it. That's the right advice.

I also go to ramps on rainy days to watch the idiots launch / retrieve their boats. Nobody knows what to do. When I launch, they look at me and say "How did you do that in 1 minute with no hassle?".

A Trailer Boat Book was published in 1968. Go to the libary and read it.
 

utfyrfytr

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 14, 2014
Messages
195
I would post some pictures if I could figure out how to post them from my phone. sound like backing in too far is probably my biggest problem. When launching I just back it in until it floats off, is there a better procedure for launching also?
 

utfyrfytr

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 14, 2014
Messages
195
Also thanks to all for your suggestions. With a little practice maybe I will no longer be the entertainment.
 

briangcc

Commander
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Jul 10, 2012
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I would post some pictures if I could figure out how to post them from my phone. sound like backing in too far is probably my biggest problem. When launching I just back it in until it floats off, is there a better procedure for launching also?

Nope that will do it. It's how I've done it with every boat we've owned - back her in till she floats. Make sure you have someone holding the lines to the boat when you do this otherwise you're likely to be on Youtube when your boat keeps floating out and you start swimming after it.

**Mine have all been bunk trailers.
 

poconojoe

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Read that and then read it twice. That is the worst advice anyone in the world could ever give you. Then read #9 and follow it. That's the right advice.

I also go to ramps on rainy days to watch the idiots launch / retrieve their boats. Nobody knows what to do. When I launch, they look at me and say "How did you do that in 1 minute with no hassle?".

A Trailer Boat Book was published in 1968. Go to the libary and read it.

So, what's wrong with my explanation? Works for me every time. Maybe I'm not explaining it clear enough? Post #9 would have you keep getting in your vehicle to "back in a few feet at a time". I'd be done and gone by then. I never have to get back in my truck to adjust the depth. If you have to keep getting back in your vehicle, your not setting your trailer at the right depth in the first place.
After I coast the boat onto the trailer while trimming up my drive, I then reach over the bow and clip the winch strap. Then climb over the bow onto the trailer tongue. I just sit on my tailgate and crank the last few feet, clip the safety chain and climb over the bed and drive away with dry feet.
Bottom line, as said or implied....every boat/trailer/ramp has its own differences. The individual needs to find the sweet spot as far as trailer depth goes. He/she needs to get into an all around routine that works for them and after that is figured out, it's easy every time.
 

444

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 16, 2010
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If your guide poles are properly adjusted and all your bunks and rollers are straight you should be able to just float the boat over the trailer, winch the nose and yank it out.
 

JimS123

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So, what's wrong with my explanation? Works for me every time. Maybe I'm not explaining it clear enough? Post #9 would have you keep getting in your vehicle to "back in a few feet at a time". I'd be done and gone by then. I never have to get back in my truck to adjust the depth. If you have to keep getting back in your vehicle, your not setting your trailer at the right depth in the first place.
After I coast the boat onto the trailer while trimming up my drive, I then reach over the bow and clip the winch strap. Then climb over the bow onto the trailer tongue. I just sit on my tailgate and crank the last few feet, clip the safety chain and climb over the bed and drive away with dry feet.
Bottom line, as said or implied....every boat/trailer/ramp has its own differences. The individual needs to find the sweet spot as far as trailer depth goes. He/she needs to get into an all around routine that works for them and after that is figured out, it's easy every time.

Boating is supposed to be fun. If launching / retrieving is not fun, then I personally would stay home. Anything that's a hassle should be fixed. OMG, climbing over the bow and sitting on the tailgate is the epitome of hassle.

When I back in I push the boat off with one finger. My wife catches it when it reaches her. Upon retrieving I stand on dry land and crank her up. No problem, no strain.

The water's edge should be far back from the back of the car. When you crank the winch your feet should be on dry land. Many others in this thread commented that the OP was backing in too far. I concur.

The "Half submerged" is the KEY to trailer boating. Backing up incrementally is optional, only if you can't handle cranking and don't mind wet feet.

All simply my personal opinions. Some likes and dislikes, some experience after 50 years of owning a boat. If you like climbing and wet feet, no problem. My problem is that I only take 1 minute here and there, its really easy and sometimes i have to wait for others that tie up the ramp.
 
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utfyrfytr

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 14, 2014
Messages
195
Jim thanks for your response. When you retrieve your boat do you winch it all of the way onto the trailer or do you power it partially onto the trailer and then winch it the rest of the way?
 

poconojoe

Lieutenant Commander
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Sep 10, 2010
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So called power loading your boat onto your trailer is shunned upon. It can erode the bottom and cause problems for the ramp. I idle toward the trailer, shifting from in gear to neutral as needed. Then when I see that I'm on course, I shut it down and slowly coast onto the trailer. While coasting I trim up the drive.

If my trailer was "half submerged" I would never get the boat onto it let along be able to crank all that dead weight with the winch. I don't understand how Jim can be standing on dry land while winching. Maybe he has an electric winch with a long cord? Climbing over the bow onto the trailer to crank the winch might be unorthodox, but that's what works for me. I'm 60 years old and it's not a burden at all. Plus, if I'm doing this alone, how am I supposed to get out of the boat without getting in the water? At the end of the day, I would rather not have to drive home with soggy feet.
​​​​​​The point is to give different opinions so the OP can decide what works for him. Different boats/trailers/ramps/operators require different approaches.
 
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