You gotta see this!!

[TwoBallScrewBall]

I was spraying decarb into my plug holes, when oops, the little tube on the end of the can ejected and disappeared into the plug hole. %$(@&%^@#$~!!!!<br /><br />

<br /><br />So i'm getting a nice look at my cylinders. Look at all the carbon that's left on them after THREE DECARBS! Ran one can of OMC engine tuner through the maintenance port, and two cans of valvetech decarb through the carbs. The last treatment I also sprayed into the plug holes. I was getting ready for treatment #4 when this happened.<br /><br />What can I do to break up this carbon and get it out of the motor?<br /><br /><br />

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[rodbolt]

Re: You gotta see this!!

hello<br /> are all the cylinders scuffed by the exhaust port like the #4 is? if so you may need more than decarbonizer. in years of old we took the heads off every 200 hours and scraped them. I have found with modern oils and unleaded fuels most decobonizing is a waste of time. as you can see with yours. it does not work as well as the salesman say. but you will need to correct that scuffing or the blowby gases will cause a problem.<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: You gotta see this!!

I see the tube is still well intact. Was the motor warm when you squirted it thru the plug hole? The best way to do it is thru the carbs while the motor is running and good and warm. It's like oven cleaner for your cylinders. But I've found that spraying it directly on the pistons doesn't do much. The motor has to be running for the best effect. It's like mixing Koolaid. Dump in the sugar and it just sits on the bottom of sour flavored water. Shake it up and you got Koolaid.

 

[TwoBallScrewBall]

Re: You gotta see this!!

It was not running or cranking when the tube went in. Motor was a little warm but not up to temp. <br /><br />Rodbolt, those 'scoring' marks seemed to just be superficial and were only in that one cylinder. I didn't open the other side yet, I'm going to replace that gasket as maintenance before with winterization. I was able to wipe the marks away with solvent on a rag. There are no actual marks in the cylinder wall. Thank you for the help though!

 

[walleyehed]

Re: You gotta see this!!

What WillyB is getting at is "Tuner" or decarb only works in the form of vapor, which is only possible at best with the engine running and up to temp.

 

[LubeDude]

Re: You gotta see this!!

Sorry if I sound like a salesman, but I dont know of another product like this one that actually works.<br /><br />Amsoil makes a product called Power foam, It squirts into the cylinders as a foam and works very well, and you can use it cold. You should let it sit overnight. It will soften that carbon I believe enough for it to come off next time you run it. Maybe it would be good sence you have the heads off to rotate each cylinder to the top and use a wire wheel to clean them before putting the heads back on. I hope there isnt that much carbon anywhere near the rings, that bothers me more than seeing it on the top.

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: You gotta see this!!

Originally posted by LubeDude:<br /> Sorry if I sound like a salesman, but I dont know of another product like this one that actually works.<br /><br />Amsoil makes a product called Power foam, It squirts into the cylinders as a foam and works very well, and you can use it cold. You should let it sit overnight. It will soften that carbon I believe enough for it to come off next time you run it.

Interesting statement, could you elaborate please. Are you referring only to 2stroke outboards, or any internal combustion motor?<br /><br />Aldo

 

[LubeDude]

Re: You gotta see this!!

Any internal combustion engine.<br /><br />Power Foam Injector, Carburetor and Engine Cleaner <br />Cleans entire combustion intake system for improved engine performance. Removes gum, varnish and carbon deposits for better fuel economy and improved overall engine performance. Cleans intake valves, intake manifolds and throttle plates to keep the combustion intake system running at peak efficiency. Effective in both two-cycle and four-cycle engines. Product Code: APF<br /><br />Performance Features<br />Removes gum, varnish and carbon deposits <br />Suppresses engine ping <br />Cuts through rust and grease <br />Improves fuel economy <br />Frees stuck choke mechanisms

 

[walleyehed]

Re: You gotta see this!!

I'd say that's a vast improvement over convensional tuners if it works that good, Cool!

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: You gotta see this!!

Lubedude, I use 'Chem-Tune' and it does exactly as you described the APF. I use it mainly on EFI and its brilliant. Its a german formula that is blended in Australia, maybe its your stuff rebadged! <br /><br />I was always sceptical about the claims until I had to remove a head after decarbing (burnt valve - nothing to do with the decarb) and was pleasantly surprised to find a spotless combustion chamber & pistons. I use it on most EFI's that come in these days and usually get favorable feedback about fuel economy etc.<br /><br />Aldo

 

[Spidybot]

Re: You gotta see this!!

Duna: German Formula? The site claims "Australian" but if really German it should be available to my part of the world as well.<br /><br />Can you supply any further info on it?<br /><br />Thnx

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: You gotta see this!!

The reason I mention the plugs is that the J's sit inside the plug hole a bit. The spark will barely clear the surface of the head. Putting the spark a bit into the middle of the compressed mixture burns better. That, and you'll get carbon building-up faster on a recessed sparkplug.<br /><br />I gotta say that your post is most interesting. I've always been told that it can't be done. Keep us up to date on your project. The replacement amplifiers are rather expensive and if those motors can safely be converted to a conventional ignition system...well, you'd generate a lot of interest with a kit.<br /><br />I think you're going to be stuck with the .010". If you change that, you'll change the timing and the dwell angle as well. I doubt there are any published specs as to what that should be. Unfortunately the points will do a lot of arcing. But if I remember right, there are two sets. That should help. The big hurdles are timing, dwell, and durability. Good Luck with it!

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: You gotta see this!!

Originally posted by UU:<br /> Duna: German Formula? The site claims "Australian" but if really German it should be available to my part of the world as well.<br /><br />Can you supply any further info on it?<br /><br />Thnx

They got a web site? I'll do some homework, the factory that stores the chemicals is up the road from me.<br /><br />Aldo

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: You gotta see this!!

UU, I've googled "chem-Tune 3000" but haven't had any success with a web site, got a link?<br /><br />I've found plenty of references to the product but no site.<br /><br />What I can tell you for a certainty is that I first came across it about 6 years ago, the owner of the distribution company (a factory close to me) told me that he is the first Australian distributor and that the formula came from Germany but blended in Australia. <br /><br />The bottle states: "Made in Australia". "Manufactured & Packaged in Australia". "Patents Pending".<br /><br />Maybe they have changed the formula enough to allow them to 're-invent' it so to speak - dunno.<br /><br />What I do know is that it works.<br /><br />Aldo

 

[kirkland]

Re: You gotta see this!!

just to add the site is Chem Tune

 

[Crappie_Fan]

Re: You gotta see this!!

Those big pieces of carbon missing is the only reason I have never de-carbed my evinrude 25hp. Afraid they will come loose and either score the cylinder walls or get stuck in the rings, or just something plane bad.

 

[JB]

Re: You gotta see this!!

Hmmmm. Interesting discussion.<br /><br />Ever hear of steam cleaning the engine? Waaaay back in the old days we commonly used water (yes, WATER) to decarb the old 16:1 and 24:1 engines (they got carboned up quickly), and we did it often.<br /><br />With the engine fully warmed up and turning 2000rpm or more we simply sprayed small amounts of water into the carb(s) until the engine tried to strangle, then ran her until she quit smoking excessively. Sometimes we would do this three or four times. <br /><br />After the treatment we ran the engine another 5 or 10 minutes to evaporate and expel any remaining water. I once pulled my plugs (Johnny CD) and peeked at the pistons after this treatment and they were shiny like new.<br /><br />I am not gonna recommend this treatment because if you botch it you have a lot of work to do, but I can tell you it worked, and well. A few of the other old timers here probably remember steam cleaning outboards.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: You gotta see this!!

Hi JB,<br /> That reminds me of an old racer's trick to aid in breaking in a motor. With the motor laying on its back, carbs up, he'd pour a couple teaspoons of Bon Ami cleanser into the carbs and then turn the motor over by hand as he poured gasoline through the carbs. He'd repeat this procedure a couple times until he was certain he had the internals all coated in Bon Ami. Then he'd right the motor and fire it up to blow it all out. . It would be a little hard starting at first, but in the end he'd have a motor with internals polished and ready to go. He was a very successful marathon racer back in the 1960s and used the trick on every fresh motor he owned, so it certainly didn't seem to hurt things...<br />- Scott

 

[kirkland]

Re: You gotta see this!!

ChineWalker..are you near black lake??

 

[CATransplant]

Re: You gotta see this!!

Bon Ami, eh? Well, that might be OK for a racer, but I sure wouldn't recommend it to a normal users. Racing engines get torn down a lot and worn parts replaced.<br /><br />Try this on your recreational engine and you'll find yourself overhauling the powerhead a lot sooner than you would otherwise.<br /><br />Racing guys do all sorts of strange things, but they're not planning on getting 1000 hours of trouble-free service out of their engines, either.