Nismoron's 1988 Mariner 210 Restoration

[Nismoron]

Now for today's progress. If I can get that splash well back into shape, there will be NO MORE flexing! haha
Today I picked up a 4X8 Sheet of 1.5 inch thick Coosa Bluewater 26 for the transom... I had to drive 3 hours each way to get it. But at $300 for a $500+ piece of board, it was a steal! The scrap from the dip in the middle will be just about right to remake the transom on the Starcraft 14ft V-hull jon boat that I sold my buddy.

 

[Watermann]

Whoa that stuff is crazy expensive!!! I bet some bottom feeders that see what it took to get that board will have a mini stroke... :lol:

 

[classiccat]

dont screw up the cut...that would hurt for days! :lol:

 

[Nismoron]

Whoa that stuff is crazy expensive!!! I bet some bottom feeders that see what it took to get that board will have a mini stroke... :lol:

Wait till they see the price on the FIVE sheets of Coosa that it is going to take to do the floor!!! I havent gotten an exact quote yet, but I'm kinda figuring about $200-$250 a sheet plus the drive to get it. And of course TAX! Not to mention the Epoxy resin and glass that's going on both sides. I plan on doing this ONCE!!!!

dont screw up the cut...that would hurt for days! :lol:

No kidding. I'm stressing that day!

 

[dozerII]

Just had to read up on Coosa board, that is some pretty fancy stuff with a price tag to match. I figure if the unsealed ply StarCraft used was usable for 30 years, then the regular ply I used coated with 3 coats of spa,r mine should last 60 years, I know the admiral would take a fry pan to my head if I ever suggested Coosa.

 

[Nismoron]

The admiral said to "do it right, I dont really care the cost" and if I need help worth the money, she would. She wanted a bigger, nicer boat and she is getting one!
She knows that I'm not going stupid crazy on the price. Even though I will have $2000ish in floor materials and another $400 in the transom, that is only $4000 total ($1600 for the boat). Add another $2000 to replace some of the hardware and hoses. That is only $6000 for a 21ft Center Console that you couldn't come anywhere near buying for that place....

 

[Watermann]

Amen to that, it's all about the mighty dollar and the admiral!

With my restore due to having to repower and another trailer, I spent around 6k total to have what I want in a boat so I see your point and agree Heck you can't buy a half wore out Japanese car for that.

 

[Nismoron]

Today's progress:
I didn't post any pics because it doesn't look like I did much. But I did. I drilled out all of the rivets (I think) that hold the splash well in. I then drilled out the rivets holding the trim on the inside edge of the gunwale. I also removed both sides of the rubrail. But I could not remove the rubrail "holder" trim. It is screws in with machine screws and they are all stuck and promptly stripped. Dangit!!!

I also got all but 4 of the bolts holding the transom in, as well as the trailer tie-down loops. I got all of this bagged and labeled a well as photos taken to document where everything went. At this point the only thing holding the splash well in is the gunwale panels and the two thruhull flanged drains.

Anyone have a good way to remove flanged drains without tearing everything to hell? I know that I am going to have to fet a flanging tool to press the new ones in when the time comes...

 

[Watermann]

I used a punch and a hammer to drive the drain tubes out of the transom from the inside. The screws that go into the transom at the ends of the gunnels, I used a sawsall to cut them off.

 

[Nismoron]

The screws that go into the transom at the ends of the gunnels, I used a sawsall to cut them off.

I got those out. The ones that I am having trouble with are the screws holding the metal part of the rubrail on...

 

[64osby]

small needle nose vise grips or a dremel.

 

[Watermann]

I hate those screws, spraying them with PB first helps some. So with the screw head stripped about all you can do is put a wrench on the inside or a deep well socket, u joint on a small 1/4" ratchet. On the screw head, if vice grips wont hang on, a dremmel or some other grinder to square the sides. Other option drill out the screw head.

 

[Nismoron]

No way to get anthing on head. Gonna have to drill em...

 

[JimbC]

Most of mine came out, I only had to drill about 5 or 6 of those out then punch the threaded part left in hole out.

 

[Watermann]

The bane of many straight screw heads... a power drill. Try using a bigger straight screw driver on the rest and put the turn pressure on the nut while just holding the driver. Yeap a 2 man job.

 

[Nismoron]

The bane of many straight screw heads... a power drill. Try using a bigger straight screw driver on the rest and put the turn pressure on the nut while just holding the driver. Yeap a 2 man job.

These are phillips and there is no nut. The just drilled an undersized hole and shot a slightly larger phillips machine screw in the hole...

 

[stevecur]

Use an impact type drill/driver.It will rattle the screws out without slipping and destroying the screws like a drill does.

 

[Watermann]

Guess I've never seen any rub rail channels like held on like that, most I've seen were like mine with straight heads and a nut on the inside.

 

[MNhunter1]

Can you dremel a groove in the head and use a straight head screwdriver? I had to do that with a couple stubborn ones.

 

[Nismoron]

Screws are too deep into recess in channel. They are about 3/4 inch back in there. I thought about using an air grinder with a 3" or 4" inch wheel to grind a slot. If that didn't work, I could just zizz the whole head off. Then pull the aluminum rubrail strip off. Then I can use some vise grips to twist the screw shank out. One way or another, it's coming off before the end of the week. This coming weekend has a schedule! The splash well is coming off and the rotten transom is coming out!!! I havent missed a deadline yet on this project and I'm not going to now! haha