99 Larson 186 SEI Ski-n-Fish Re-Deck Project

[tpenfield]

If I were me, I would certainly do the tings you mentioned about 1708 on the inside and packing of the cut, but I would also add a layer of glass on the outside. You will have to grind into the gelcoat a bit for adhesion. Maybe a layer of 1708 as well for good strength. You will want to sand the surface smooth and re-gelcoat

Since the cut is under the chine area, a slight bulge in the area from the layer of 1708 will not be all that obvious, and you will be more assured that the patch will not fail over the years.

 

[QuickPuppy]

Thanks Ted, sounds like a plan.


Thinking down the road a bit now... any ideas how hard or how much it may cost to fix this seat cushion? Both captain’s chairs have the rip in the same place.

 

[QuickPuppy]

Progress today...
Finished the transom repairs, retabbed it as well as retabbed the ski locker. Gelcoated both.

 

[Bayou Dave]

Looks like it is getting close to splash time!

 

[JASinIL2006]

Thanks Ted, sounds like a plan.


Thinking down the road a bit now... any ideas how hard or how much it may cost to fix this seat cushion? Both captain’s chairs have the rip in the same place.

I had some upholstery repaired (had to replace stitched-in colored panels that had cracked) and I found the price was highly dependent on whether you or the shop took off the fabric and replaced it. The first time I had some repaired, I pulled off the fabric, and the shop sewed it and put it back on the seat base. The second time I had a bad spot fixed, I took the fabric off and put it back on after the shop sewed it, and I saved quite a bit of money.

If you do the removal and re-installation, I bet you could get those seams resewed for less than $100. If the shop does all the work, I'd guess at least a couple hundred per seat. I'd just take in the seat, or take in several good photos, and ask.

(My shop was VERY happy, by the way, to have me remove the fabric. I think they were not too eager to pull several hundred staples to get the fabric off!)

 

[QuickPuppy]

I think the splash is still a ways off unfortunately.

 

[QuickPuppy]

Good info on the vinyl Jim, Thanks.

Got some more done today...

Second coat of gelcoat (waxed this time) in the bilge and locker. How do you get that stuf to lay smooth without roller or brush marks?! Using US Composites gelcoat with 5% styrene added, kicked at 1% on the first coat and about 1.8% on the second. I assume some sanding is in order now that it is totally cured?

Repaired the slice that I put though the hull back when I was cutting off the old tabbing. Packed the slice with PB, then covered with CSM and 1708 on the inside, 1708 on the outside. I also put a strip of 1708 down the keel to cover up some abrasions. I will color match them after sanding.

Waterproofed the front deck support and tank brace 2x4’s.

Drilled holes for thru-hull fittings and lower motor mount bolts. (Use PL/5200 or bedding compound to seal these fittings?)

 

[JASinIL2006]

I gelcoated my bilge and I did not sand it. I was not going for a hull-smooth finish,just something durable. All thru-hull fitting had the openings soaked with resin to seal the wood, then 3M 5200 as a filler/sealant.

 

[QuickPuppy]

For those you who made seat bases to avoid holes though your deck, how did you attach your pedestals? Lag bolts, epoxied in threaded sleeves, epoxied in t-nuts, some other ideas? I kind of like the sleeve idea myself. (Jim, do you have the dimensions of the bases you made for yours since mine is likely the same?)

Similar question for how you attached other hardware and parts that on mine were originally screwed into the deck. I.e. battery boxes, hose clamps, bench seat bases, Live well support box, front kick panels, etc...

 

[eggs712]

I just used stainless lag bolts with some marine sealant. The factories often don't seal screws to the deck at all and it lasts for decades. So adding some proper sealant should make your bases last for decades more without rotting the whole deck.

 

[JASinIL2006]

For those you who made seat bases to avoid holes though your deck, how did you attach your pedestals? Lag bolts, epoxied in threaded sleeves, epoxied in t-nuts, some other ideas? I kind of like the sleeve idea myself. (Jim, do you have the dimensions of the bases you made for yours since mine is likely the same?)

Similar question for how you attached other hardware and parts that on mine were originally screwed into the deck. I.e. battery boxes, hose clamps, bench seat bases, Live well support box, front kick panels, etc...

I attached the pedestal bases by 'gluing' the base down using hairy peanut butter, then covering the entire base with two layers of 1708 that extended out past the edge of the base and onto the deck. The first layer extended about 3-4" beyond the base and the second layer extended farther, about 6-8" beyond the base. I then covered the bases (and the entire deck) in 6 oz. cloth to get a smoother look.

To attach the pedestals to the bases, I used stainless steel T-nuts and predrilled holes in the base before glassing in the bases. I was a little careless with several of the holes and accidentally dripped resin in them while glassing over the base; that required some tapping to clean out the T-nut threads, but it could easily have been avoided if I was more careful in covering/packing the holes before glassing. (I did put tape over the T-nuts on the bottom side, so PB didn't ooze up into the holes when I glued down the bases to the deck.) After the fiberglass was finished and cured, I just drilled out through the glass to open the holes.

When screwing in the seat bases, I liberally applied 5200 into the holes in the seat base, so they are effectively waterproof.

My bases are 14" square at the bottom and they are cut on a 45 degree angle so they are 11" at the top. I made them by gluing together two 3/4" pieces of plywood and then cutting on a table saw with the blade set at 45 degrees. The seat bases have proven to be be very solid.

For battery boxes, bench seat screws, etc., I just liberally fill the hole with 5200, making sure to work the 5200 into the wood with a toothpick or nail, and then I just drive in the screw. On all of them, a good bit of 5200 mushrooms out, so not only his the hole sealed, but so is the screwhead against the deck. I don't worry about water getting in there.

 

[QuickPuppy]

Good info guys, thanks.

 

[QuickPuppy]

Any thoughts on what to use for the tank to deck bracing or under the cockpit pass through bracing? I painted a couple of 2x4's with poly resin (no CSM) but am having second thoughts on whether to use PT 2x4's instead. Both will have the new decking epoxied to them. Some of the stuff I pulled out may have been PT but hard to tell. (The tank supports were slightly cracked but not rotten- a previous owner may probably replaced them. The pass through support was probably original and it was rotten.)

 

[oldrem]

Lots of warnings about not using PT lumber in boats

 

[71beepbeep]

The project is coming along nicely. Soon, another older Larson will be on the water again.

 

[QuickPuppy]

Nice, beepbeep

 

[QuickPuppy]

I guess the question is, “is resin alone enough to protect a regular 2x4?”

 

[oldrem]

Perhaps a good place for the "Old Timers Formula" ?

 

[JASinIL2006]

I also would not use PT. I think the problem with using resin alone is that it is brittle and likely to crack without glass. I’d give them a wrap in CSM.

 

[QuickPuppy]

I need to sand off the waxed resin that I already put on there to get the CSM to adhere properly. The reason I didn’t want to use the CSM was the added width... especially under the pass through where my clearance is already extremely tight. Have to experiment a bit.

oldrem... does glass adhere to “OTF”?