Milky madness

racerone

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Well --with that procedure to run pump dry and not draining the block and manifolds , I think the motor suffered expensive damage !!
 

Jake222

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Feb 4, 2020
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Take the garden hose and connect it to the thermostat and let it run full force for a bit, to check for a crack. The oil pan will start filling with water or you will see water pouring into the bilge if there is one
Disregard.
 

Lou C

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I didn’t say I winterized it just ran all the water out as in I had ran it every couple days for a few weeks leading up to the freeze in the driveway with no muffs for about 10-20 seconds. As I knew this would help with water removal.
No it does not, the engine, & intake are still full of water! the only water that drains that way is what's in the manifolds (not 100%) water intakes of the outdrive
Outboards drain by lowering them down all the way inboards and I/Os must be drained.
So there is still about 4 1/2 gallons of water in the engine, probably 2 qts in each manifold etc.

who suggested doing that?
 

Jake222

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No it does not, the engine, & intake are still full of water! the only water that drains that way is what's in the manifolds (not 100%) water intakes of the outdrive
Outboards drain by lowering them down all the way inboards and I/Os must be drained.
So there is still about 4 1/2 gallons of water in the engine, probably 2 qts in each manifold etc.

who suggested doing that?
Nobody. First time learner.
 

Lou C

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What is gonna be my benefit from doing this?
your benefit will be to find out if the engine heads/block/intake is cracked and where the cracks are if you can hear air escaping.
But since you didn't drain it then get ready to go shopping for another engine. Because what you described doing will not get the raw water out of the engine and its nearly a certainty the block, heads and intake are cracked.

This is why I always say, I feel every single inboard or I/O engine should be closed cooled with a heat exchanger. That way your engine is full of antifreeze like the car engine it really is, as designed by General Motors. It was the cheap fools at Mercrusier et al who came up with this lousy system of raw water cooling. Now there are literally thousands of boats with ruined engines all across the South because of this bad engineering practice. You forget JUST ONE TIME and it's done.
And this is why most people here are buying outboards even though they are very expensive. They have had I/Os and are done with the nonsense of scrambling to winterize them every fall. Because up here we know ONE TIME you forget and it's scrap iron!
The only way I'd have an inboard is with closed cooling. It costs more but so do new/reman engines!
 
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Jake222

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your benefit will be to find out if the engine heads/block/intake is cracked and where the cracks are if you can hear air escaping.
But since you didn't drain it then get ready to go shopping for another engine. Because what you described doing will not get the raw water out of the engine and its nearly a certainty the block, heads and intake are cracked.

This is why I always say, I feel every single inboard or I/O engine should be closed cooled with a heat exchanger. That way your engine is full of antifreeze like the car engine it really is, as designed by General Motors. It was the cheap fools at Mercrusier et al who came up with this lousy system of raw water cooling. Now there are literally thousands of boats with ruined engines all across the South because of this bad engineering practice. You forget JUST ONE TIME and it's done.
And this is why most people here are buying outboards even though they are very expensive. They have had I/Os and are done with the nonsense of scrambling to winterize them every fall. Because up here we know ONE TIME you forget and it's scrap iron!
The only way I'd have an inboard is with closed cooling. It costs more but so do new/reman engines!
Owned a few Outboard’s never had to do this just store upright. Last INboard I’ll be having for awhile it was supposed to go on the market after the time out yesterday. Not now.. Pulling heads today to inspect. I have a Grady white with twin Outboard’s that I just learned to love a lot more.
 

Jake222

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Owned a few Outboard’s never had to do this just store upright. Last INboard I’ll be having for awhile it was supposed to go on the market after the time out yesterday. Not now.. Pulling heads today to inspect. I have a Grady white with twin Outboard’s that I just learned to love a lot more.
And I know it’s just faulty procedure But like you said it can only take one time. I agree.
 

Jake222

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It’s just odd because I ran for a couple hours prior to hearing the issue. Which makes me the slightest bit hopefully it was a gasket. We will see.
 

Lou C

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as my previous mechanic used to say "I'd rather have my Chevy small block in a hot rod than in a boat"
and here they refer to I/Os as "double trouble"!
Yep stick to outboards in smaller boats. Better in every way except initial cost.
 

Jake222

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Sure will. I got the boat for $500 and did the deck and transom. You think I would know more!
 

Lou C

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We all had to learn somewhere. I remember running out to pull the drain plugs the first year I had my present boat (this was back in 2002 or so) lucky the previous owner gave me the OMC owners manual which described it all very clearly.
Since then I pick a nice fall day in October to winterize when its 65* not in Nov when its 40* out.
That's why while I would consider repowering this boat I really want an outboard for the rest of my boating years.
We have a little Suzuki DF 2.5 for our Walker Bay boats and its a pleasure.
 

isaacs

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Oct 15, 2013
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An old school 150W light bulb in the bilge can help keep you safe for those nights that take you by surprise.
 

Jake222

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An old school 150W light bulb in the bilge can help keep you safe for those nights that take you by surprise
Well. I pulled the intake. Gasket looked okay. Pulled the heads. It’s a mess. Cylinder were full of water. Don’t know what to look for gaskets looked okay. I did hook it up to a hose prior to as one member recommended and water dribbled out of the stbd head seal. Walls were completely perfect and shiny.
 

H20Rat

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An old school 150W light bulb in the bilge can help keep you safe for those nights that take you by surprise.
Although I've done that before for sudden cold snaps, it scares me! The life of your engine is reliant on hopefully never having a random power outage. Especially risky if a cold snap is accompanied by a ice/sleet storm.
 

H20Rat

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as my previous mechanic used to say "I'd rather have my Chevy small block in a hot rod than in a boat"
and here they refer to I/Os as "double trouble"!
Yep stick to outboards in smaller boats. Better in every way except initial cost.

Still lots of good reasons to have an I/O. Somewhat safer with kids jumping off a full swim platform. Longer life if properly maintained. And like you mentioned, not just initial cost but also reman cost. 4.3/5.0/5.7 long blocks are dirt cheap compared to a similar power 4 stroke outboard. Lastly, might not be important to some, but I/O's have alternators with decent output, very few outboards have much electrical power.

I've had 2 & 4 stroke outboards, 2 stroke inboard jet, and 4 stroke I/O. Still prefer a v6/v8 I/O out of all the choices.
 

Lou C

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Although I've done that before for sudden cold snaps, it scares me! The life of your engine is reliant on hopefully never having a random power outage. Especially risky if a cold snap is accompanied by a ice/sleet storm.
While I’ve heard of this I never tried it, there’s a risk if you ever had fuel vapors in the bilge. Best thing you can do with these is modify what you have to in order to get at the drains to make it easier to drain. My issue with I/Os is not just putting a car engine in a boat but boat companies designing boats with no regard what so ever for maintenance. Late model boats with all the molded in fiberglass around the rear seats are nearly impossible to work on.
 

Scott Danforth

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I didn’t say I winterized it just ran all the water out as in I had ran it every couple days for a few weeks leading up to the freeze in the driveway with no muffs for about 10-20 seconds. As I knew this would help with water removal.
you incorrectly assumed

that did absolutely nothing to remove water

all that did was melt your raw water pump housing because you ran the pump without water and it burned the exhaust flappers out of the y-pipe and burned the inside of the exhaust hoses.

the ONLY way to get water out of the block, manifolds, and hoses is to drain them. hence the whole draining procedure in the manual under winterization.

so most likely your block is cracked, possibly the heads too, manifolds are most definitely cracked, and your PS cooler is probably toast as well. drive has to come apart and new raw water pump and housing installed. buy yourself new flappers and exhaust hoses.
 

tpenfield

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Just by the looks of the milkshake all over the engine and your description of 'blowing' the water out (which you now know didn't do anything except put some added wear on the impeller) - I'd say you have a total loss of an engine. Maybe it is just the exhaust manifolds that cracked and not the engine block, but you would have to assume that you got a hydro-lock at some point while running the engine and may have bent a few connecting rods.

Your best bet would to be to try to get a new (or rebuilt) long block and see what you can salvage from the old engine. ... or is it even worth it at this point ???

I think there will be many folks like yourself having similar issues with cracked blocks, because of the sudden freeze in the southern states.

I assume that you are in the southern USA? :unsure:
 
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