Disregard.Take the garden hose and connect it to the thermostat and let it run full force for a bit, to check for a crack. The oil pan will start filling with water or you will see water pouring into the bilge if there is one
No it does not, the engine, & intake are still full of water! the only water that drains that way is what's in the manifolds (not 100%) water intakes of the outdriveI didn’t say I winterized it just ran all the water out as in I had ran it every couple days for a few weeks leading up to the freeze in the driveway with no muffs for about 10-20 seconds. As I knew this would help with water removal.
Nobody. First time learner.No it does not, the engine, & intake are still full of water! the only water that drains that way is what's in the manifolds (not 100%) water intakes of the outdrive
Outboards drain by lowering them down all the way inboards and I/Os must be drained.
So there is still about 4 1/2 gallons of water in the engine, probably 2 qts in each manifold etc.
who suggested doing that?
your benefit will be to find out if the engine heads/block/intake is cracked and where the cracks are if you can hear air escaping.What is gonna be my benefit from doing this?
Owned a few Outboard’s never had to do this just store upright. Last INboard I’ll be having for awhile it was supposed to go on the market after the time out yesterday. Not now.. Pulling heads today to inspect. I have a Grady white with twin Outboard’s that I just learned to love a lot more.your benefit will be to find out if the engine heads/block/intake is cracked and where the cracks are if you can hear air escaping.
But since you didn't drain it then get ready to go shopping for another engine. Because what you described doing will not get the raw water out of the engine and its nearly a certainty the block, heads and intake are cracked.
This is why I always say, I feel every single inboard or I/O engine should be closed cooled with a heat exchanger. That way your engine is full of antifreeze like the car engine it really is, as designed by General Motors. It was the cheap fools at Mercrusier et al who came up with this lousy system of raw water cooling. Now there are literally thousands of boats with ruined engines all across the South because of this bad engineering practice. You forget JUST ONE TIME and it's done.
And this is why most people here are buying outboards even though they are very expensive. They have had I/Os and are done with the nonsense of scrambling to winterize them every fall. Because up here we know ONE TIME you forget and it's scrap iron!
The only way I'd have an inboard is with closed cooling. It costs more but so do new/reman engines!
And I know it’s just faulty procedure But like you said it can only take one time. I agree.Owned a few Outboard’s never had to do this just store upright. Last INboard I’ll be having for awhile it was supposed to go on the market after the time out yesterday. Not now.. Pulling heads today to inspect. I have a Grady white with twin Outboard’s that I just learned to love a lot more.
Well. I pulled the intake. Gasket looked okay. Pulled the heads. It’s a mess. Cylinder were full of water. Don’t know what to look for gaskets looked okay. I did hook it up to a hose prior to as one member recommended and water dribbled out of the stbd head seal. Walls were completely perfect and shiny.An old school 150W light bulb in the bilge can help keep you safe for those nights that take you by surprise
Although I've done that before for sudden cold snaps, it scares me! The life of your engine is reliant on hopefully never having a random power outage. Especially risky if a cold snap is accompanied by a ice/sleet storm.An old school 150W light bulb in the bilge can help keep you safe for those nights that take you by surprise.
as my previous mechanic used to say "I'd rather have my Chevy small block in a hot rod than in a boat"
and here they refer to I/Os as "double trouble"!
Yep stick to outboards in smaller boats. Better in every way except initial cost.
While I’ve heard of this I never tried it, there’s a risk if you ever had fuel vapors in the bilge. Best thing you can do with these is modify what you have to in order to get at the drains to make it easier to drain. My issue with I/Os is not just putting a car engine in a boat but boat companies designing boats with no regard what so ever for maintenance. Late model boats with all the molded in fiberglass around the rear seats are nearly impossible to work on.Although I've done that before for sudden cold snaps, it scares me! The life of your engine is reliant on hopefully never having a random power outage. Especially risky if a cold snap is accompanied by a ice/sleet storm.
you incorrectly assumedI didn’t say I winterized it just ran all the water out as in I had ran it every couple days for a few weeks leading up to the freeze in the driveway with no muffs for about 10-20 seconds. As I knew this would help with water removal.