Ok thanks... the guy in the next slip to me says he runs is engine 5.7 Mercruiser for 2-3 hours at WOT. I thought he was nuts. But I guess many people do?
I would run mine for maybe a minute at WOT but never longer than that. Am I missing something or am I just overly protective. Been...
What 4 barrel would be best? Vacuum secondaries or mechanical... and what CFM. 650 750 ? Single or double pumper?
With that said... if I'm reaching max engine rpm with my 2 barrel and I never run it there. Where when and how will the 4 barrel improve. Will it just get me to the same top...
Hi. I'm looking for thoughts opinions experiences concerning switching from a 2bl to a 4bl carb. My 5.7 Volvo penta GS in a 21ft Chris Craft bow rider has a 600cfm 2 barrel on top of a factory 4 barrel manifold with an adaptor. Besides the regular answer of "using more fuel" is this worth...
Yes exactly why I skipped over the $40 ones and paid $205 from volvo. Not very happy at all on the price.. but I can tell you that my last $40 only lasted about a year b4 it started acting screwy at the Guage.
Still trying to pin down my drive and boat info. Found this tag today after uncovering the boat and getting into the engine compartment. I could not take shrink wrap off before today as my canvas guy was holding all my canvas hostage. I got it back today. So I'm now wondering if I'm OMC or...
I just did mine. I used one from Volvo Penta and paid lots of dollars for it. After I installed it I stayed in the boat and had my wife hold the sender in her hand and slowly turn the white part. Nothing happened... I then unplugged it and discovered my wires were not pushed into the rubber...
So if he ever gets it apart should he coat the splines with never seize upon reassembly? I know the answer is "you would never have to coat it if you pulled and serviced it each year". But not everyone is capable of that and thinking now more about it... I bet us that cold winters actually...
All my parts are in way. Coming from a local dealership here. The parts & service guys have come to this conclusion after I battered them with newly found numbers and pictures all weekend. Does this sound good to anyone?
Email from VP dealers after their confirmation my order has been filled...
Drill the bolt. Mark your drill bits to the length of the stud from the seam out to the end and only drill that far for now. So drill of course from the end of stud to where seam is. Start will small drill and work your way up. Your only drilling at this point to get the drive off. Once off...
Yep but again thanks for all your help and everyone else's also. In my thin defense...I was not looking for an "OMC" tag location as until today and my recent 572BPBYC search that first mentioned the OMC reference. I have been stuck on searching for SX drive tag locations and never saw any...
Yes but those tags were stickers on electrical box on risers so I kinda got the hairy eye ball from parts guys because they couldn't trust that those were "the actual #'s on the actual drive that is actually on the boat now." Because the block was replaced and I didn't have the "actual AQ...
LOOK WHAT I JUST FOUND 😡😇
Under the left tilt trim ram (which I never took off myself during the 8 years I have owned it) was these 2 rivets and a plate covered in crust. I wipe it down and here I hope is the correct plate info. I have been looking all these years for this plate to be in...
