On choosing whether taking a low ball price - as a buyer there is no excuse to pay a price for a boat with a motor problem of any kind that doesn't include the full discount to replace said motor. I would have offered a lot less than 20K US for a boat that the motor ran crappy, had milky oil and...
If in doubt, popping the top cap off and looking again at that bearing is a great way to see how it is holding up. That bearing, for me, is always the canary in the coal mine. Tells a lot about what is happening in the rest of the upper gear case.
I pretty much did it that way. Bolted the mounts up to the motor so while installing motor it sits on them.
Once the motor is in place, which is determined by dropping rear mount bolts in as you set the motor, then move to alldodge's post #10:
I found that once the motor is sitting on the back...
Make sure we are on the same page. This is the drawing from earlier in the thread. I scribbled in red. You will notice that 13º is fixed on the drawing. You will also note there is nothing fixing an angle to the hull. Will also note that the 13º angle downward on the transom plate to centerline...
I am a welder fabricator. Own my own shop with mills n lathes and every welder in the book. I live off drawings and accurate measurements. There is no friggin way that I am ever going to hang a hunk of metal and trim it to fit.
Every motor diagram shows the 13 degree angle. Full stop. Go grab a transom plate - look carefully at the center hole and the relationship to motor mount points below it. Both are exactly 13 degrees angled downwards from the back side of the transom plate - LOOK AT IT. Take a protractor to it if...
No sir. All transom plates aim the motor 13º down from whatever the transom is. If the transom is 17º, then the motor is 4º up from the stringers. The transom angle is variable. The transom plate and gimbal housing set the angle of the motor the same no matter what - are not variable.
I'm just slow I guess. I don't believe those two motors will show any difference at all. Probably only difference something like a carburetor upgrade. Minor difference at best. Use the one needs the least maintenance and go fishing.
I guess I don't see any advantage over a regular solid brass plug. Same amount of work... I get it that what you have works. So do these with same amount of labor.
I think he is wanting to swap out pipe plugs for something plastic. Personally, I would not do that. I buy solid brass plugs and lube/protect the block threads with Locktite Aviation gasket sealer which doesn't ever harden. Just don't get the hollow brass plugs. They break off and cause grief...
Man, still sounds leaner n hell.
Things that make lean:
Plugged something in carb
Low float level
fuel pump poor output
vacuum leak
You know what might help diagnose is to run some propane into the intake and see if the pinging goes away momentarily. If it fixes the ping and adds...
Purple should be the power source at the oil pressure switch - coming from ignition switch.
Purple yellow from the starter should be connected to the same lug as the purple yellow going to the pump.
Edit: Purple yellow from the switch and from the starter both go to power the pump. They come...
