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  1. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Yes, will all be sanded smooth before paint.
  2. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    No doubt. Hopefully after it's all painted up, any imperfections will be covered by the trolling motor and strategically placed chokes, cleats, rod holders, or cup holders. I'll have to see how she looks after paint.
  3. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Started fitting the deck and a little more hole patching with the MT on the bow cap, console, and livewell. I tape over each hole on the clean side with a piece of wax paper, fill from the back, then go back and slap on another piece of wax paper on the back. Keeps the MT from running out...
  4. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Rivets arrived and I was able to get the stringers and cable tray reinstalled. Appears the original rivets were 5/32, but all are now upgrade to 3/16.
  5. MNhunter1

    '74 Holiday 18 Restore Mod.... Convert to open bow.

    I use a center punch to dimple the head first and reduce the risk of the drill bit wandering. Once you have them drilled out a bit, you can use a chisel to easily knock off the head. Use a punch to drive out the tail.
  6. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Would you paint the transom skin prior to installing the plate, or install bare aluminum to bare aluminum and just paint over the exterior? I always figure you want the 5200 against the aluminum and not on top of the paint, the the paint coat between the sheets would give a better layer of...
  7. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Fabing up my aluminum transom plate/motor pad/sheet for the outside skin of the transom. Is 5200 still the preferred adhesive, or some sort of epoxy? I was assuming I'd just back butter it with a health dose of 5200, but there tends to be some schools of thought out there that water will still...
  8. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    I ended up hitting about half of the rib rivets before the can started to heat up and it was going on too thick to want to play with it any more. I think the Gluvit goes down a bit easier and I probably could have finished the remaining ribs, but the Coat-it lays down a bit thicker and seems to...
  9. MNhunter1

    G/Flex question on aluminum boats

    Sorry, just seeing this now, otherwise would have replied earlier. Your best bet is to hit the rivet tails with the GFlex from the inside of the hull. You'll want to leave the drain holes open and I'm not sure coating the rivet head will necessarily address any potential leak points between...
  10. MNhunter1

    '74 Holiday 18 Restore Mod.... Convert to open bow.

    Nothing standard that I have seen on any other Starcraft before.
  11. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Coat-it or Gluvit - is it worth it to hit the rivets on the ribs, or a waste of time/material? I'll have plenty of material, just curious on everyone's perspective. One would think any potential benefit would exist under the rib at the hull rather than on top of the ribs at the tails.
  12. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    No glass, just 3 coats of epoxy per side and I'll topcoat the minimally exposed side with Krylon Fusion paint. The transom on these MR180's are pretty well covered, so aside from any penetration at the thru-bolts, it's pretty well protected. There's just a small section at the knee brace below...
  13. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Just ‘cause I know you all like pictures of stuff drying… 3rd coat of epoxy on side one. Will flip in the morning, knock off the drip numbs with the orbital sander, and get 3 coats on side two before the day is over. Was tempted to crack open the 2nd can of Coat-it and finish off the hull...
  14. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Just a little epoxy work today. US Composite on the transom and Coat-it on the hull seams. Have another 2lb can of Coat-it, but the can is still a bit cold from sitting in the mailbox overnight. Figure I’ll let it warm up and hit the rest of the rivets tomorrow.
  15. MNhunter1

    How long after applying vinegar on aluminum hull can I wait before applying SE primer?

    I had a similar question on my build, see answers below: Etching has a shelf life. Oxidation starts once the raw aluminum is exposed to Air. SHSU From Watermann: What you could do on the boat since it looks to have had a DA sander run over the surface is vinegar wipe down, rinse and then...
  16. MNhunter1

    My First StarCraft; 1975 18' SuperSport

    YouTube I usually just search StarCraft iboats and it’ll pop up. Can probably find Rob cruising along in his Chief enjoying a cigar as well 😁
  17. MNhunter1

    My First StarCraft; 1975 18' SuperSport

    Just watched your build video again. Great work and documentation! 👍🏻
  18. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Mystery solved - That top lip is deceiving as one would think it sat on top of one of the stringers, but based on the attached photos, it appears the short side of the tray is riveted at the inside base of the starboard stringer. This would support the holes I did locate along the lower edge of...
  19. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Anyone have a picture of an MR180 or other center console that uses the aluminum tray between the stringers to run the steering and controls from the helm to the motor? Looking to see how it is mounted between the center and starboard stringer. I apparently removed mine without snapping a...
  20. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Made some glitter in the garage and hammered some solids today. Reinforced the stringers with some 1/8” angle to ensure a solid base to secure the deck to. The old holes/mounting points were pretty well corroded. Much better now. 6” sections at every mounting point. Fortunately, the...
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