I just butted my two pieces of plywood together. Pre-covered bottom surface with 1 layer of CSM. Resin soaked edges. After installation, top surface got 1 layer of 1708 and 1 layer of CSM. I did locate the joint between the plywood over a bulkhead.
Finished buffing the cap yesterday. It's not perfect, but good enough for a first season. No pictures, as I was racing the thunderstorms.
Hoping to get the carpet laid in the bow storage area this by this weekend the move the cap back onto the hull.
It all depends on how thorough you are, how much material you waste as you learn/progress, and lots of other factors. My boat is 19 ft and I'm guessing I'm in it about 30 gallons of resin, 30 yards of 1708, and 15 yards of CSM...just for transom/stringers/deck. I'm doing mine in a one-car...
Sure, it's likely possible to do it without pulling the cap. Look up the Friscoboater videos on YouTube of his Sea Ray restoration - he didn't pull the cap. Now, it may end up being more work for you by not pulling the cap if you have to cut out some of the fiberglass to get access to all the...
Yeah, I was wondering about the radio and figured I'd have to go to a DIN size. Not a bad idea about laminating. I may have found a guy with a spare dash panel, or as you said, I may just glue it back together, buff it, and worry about remaking it later.
Look at it this way - you've spent about 1/20th to 1/30th the cost of having it finished. If it's the only thing you do in your spare time, I think it can be done in under a year. If life happens, or you are splitting your spare time between boat restoration and something else, plan for 18+...
It's a 2-ply acrylic, 3/16" thick - white for the majority of the thickness, with a black face. The Power Play logo, warning message, and text by the switches/fuses are all engraved through the black surface to reveal the white plastic behind. There were light bulbs behind these areas so that...
Disassembled the dash and drew wiring diagrams, then did more buffing on the cap today. Probably going to re-make the dash since the original is broken.
Yes. Take a 1/4" drill bit and (from the inside) drill a hole through the inner fiberglass layer, into the wood (but not into the outer fiberglass layer). Drill the hole as low on the transom as possible - ideally ~1 or 2 inches up from the bottom of the hull, near the drain plug. What you...
Dig out the foam, cut out the old stringers, transom, bulkheads, deck, and any other wood, replace with new wood and fiberglass, reinstall foam, reupholster, and fix the rest of the issues.
Post some overall pics of the boat.
What about some mandrel bent 45-degree SS or aluminum tube? You might be able to use one or two mandrel bends in combination with the flexible hose (double-hose clamp each end) to get what you need.
We went out on the river a few weeks ago with some friends on their boat and I think that finally set the hook in my wife - now she gets it and is ready for me to be done with the boat...now. :ROFLMAO:
