If you have to tow with engine tilted up, for clearance, then use a transom saver....without it, the engine will cause the transom to flex fore and aft.....and the higher the motor is the worse the flexing will be.
I have an older GMC truck.....always try to get GM or Acdelco parts.....the last thermostat I bought was an Acdelco.....opened the box and the t-stat had Motorad stamped on it......and made in China.....
Can the OP ground the switch to test his overheat buzzer?
Just realized that by grounding the thermo switch to a spark plug I am really only testing the warning buzzer function, not the switch itself.....
Years ago was cruising at high rpms when suddenly the engine quit....only then could I hear the buzzer.....way too late. After a PH rebuild, added a louder horn, temp gauge, and light on the dash....and test them regularly.
I added a temp gauge.....but maybe should have gone with a water pressure gauge instead. Lots of opinions out there on that....
The linc n sync stickie by the late Frank A. says to set idle rpm to 700-750 in the water in forward gear....my manual says the same IIRC.
It's a good thing you haven't heard the buzzer for real.....usually the damage is already done when you hear it..........is mounted on the cyl head near one of the spark plugs....held in by a retaining clip....
It is a thermoswitch, not a temp sender.....when the engine reaches a certain temp the switch activates and turns on the warning buzzer.....the engine will not shut off automatically....YOU have to shut it off when you hear the buzzer. #18 in the diagram.....
ebay Canada has the Fram.....they also have the Fram knockoff brand GKI.....Have been using the GKI for a while, no problems.....you can get multi packs of them pretty cheap.
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/force-125-1986-hole-in-front-of-lower-unit-weeping-oil.750996/ You could take a look at this thread, is about the same problem you are having with the bellows......post#34 talks about a solution by Franz Marine that fixes the problem....assuming he still does...
Something like this Fram G2 works well.....they make different ones for different fuel hose sizes.....the clear one you ordered will probably be ok...you don't really need an expensive filter as it is mainly for visually seeing the fuel flowing, not so much for filtering.
I would do as 99yam40 said.....the grommet protects those wires from chafing and shorting out on the metal cowling....find a way to disconnect them and run them through the new grommet. No need to put silicone all over it and make a mess.....
On the shoulder of the highway with a flat tire is not a good time to find out that your lug nuts were over torqued with an impact......whenever I get new tires the first thing I do is break em all loose, then retorque to proper spec.
If you had a 4-way you might have a chance.....but if all you...
