in case you want to do a bit of research
companties that have marinized the LS and LT motors:
Volvo Penta
Ilmore
Indmar
PCM
companies that have avoided the LS and LT
Mercruiser (they made their own blocks based off of gen 1 SBC parts)
you can always follow what mercruiser suggests regarding plumbing on a full system heat exchanger
me personally, I would put a new long block in front of the heat exchanger.
I use a bent allen key chucked in a drill to remove a bit of balsa core. that way the fiberglass acts as a guide, and the allen key chews out the core to a fixed depth.
then mix up some PB (see the stickies) and fill the void. dress as needed and it will be a solid bit around the transducer hole.
the top few threads in the forum that have the little post-it note symbol. those are "stuck" like a sticky note on the top of the forum. 3rd one down in the restoration forum has all the DIY links.
there is no way to make an automotive fuel system safe for a boat by an individual.
I build my own engines. many people buy their engines from michigan motorz. GM used to sell 6.2 liter 377 stock bore crate motors.
the LS marine motors have been out since about 2008, so I would seriously...
because automotive fuel systems are not spark suppressed or designed to be in a boat. if they leak fuel in a car, it goes out the open bottom and doesnt matter. in a boat, the fuel leaks in the bilge, then turns to explosive vapors
standard ACX plywood is fine. for the double-thickness, use tite-bond III to glue two pieces of 3/4" together.
Rustoleum is fine. use a hardener. I believe that is link 18 or 19 in the sticky
I would also suggest going thru the forum stickies. specifically the 3rd down. https://forums.iboats.com/threads/how-tos-and-other-great-information.283508/
go thru threads 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b in their entirety.
welcome aboard. the standard exterior grade plywood lasted over 35 years. I would suggest another piece of plywood. youre looking at a saturday, or a weekend at most,
its a mid 80's OMC brand. so the build quality was garbage. most rotted and fell apart in the 90s
the maximum life expectancy of a boat designed in the 80's is about 15 years without major work.
Welcome aboard.
Just as an FYI, your free boat will be extremely expensive to get it operational.
the motor is the cheapest part of fixing the boat. the old OMC brands such as the boat you have there were not known for great build quality. expect to pour about $5k into the hull
before you...
