Agreed - I've got the Moroso harmonic balancer installer tool - similar concept. The thing I like about the Moroso tool over using a long bolt is that it has a bearing to reduce friction while turning the nut - this reduces the chance of snapping the bolt off in the crank snout. Looks like the...
I started wet sanding on the starboard side. Made it about 2/3 of the way up towards the bow, working with 500 grit and focusing on removing the ghosting from the letters and pinstripe. Here's a before and after shot of my progress today.
Finished buffing the port side today and installed the registration numbers. Still have yet to wet sand and buff the entire starboard side. Not perfect by any means - if you get close you can really see the sanding swirls in a few spots, but I'm just going to live with them. Considering it's...
The pipe you're trying to remove was plastic on mine, but it also had thr rubber bushing on the end to increase the OD so the coolant hose could clamp to it. I was able to twist and break this free then pull it off. It had to come off to be able to pull the plastic pipe out of the gimbal housing.
Thanks Mark!
I got a few hours in with the buffer this morning, as it was mid-60's. I got down the entire port side of the boat with Aqua-Buff 1000 and just got started with Aqua-Buff 2000 before I called it quits for the day. It's not perfect - still some orbital sanding swirls that are...
Hey, glad to see you're still at it. Bummer you're having issues with the shifter.
Is it a new/new-ish lower shift cable? If you disconnect the lower shift cable from the engine, how easy is it to shift by hand with the drive down? Any difference with the drive up? If it's still difficult...
72 degrees today - wow. I intended to do more wet sanding and buffing, but once I got the boat pulled into the garage, I decided to tackle other things.
First I had to enlarge my radio cut-out. I guess I didn't spec it big enough. After that I installed the radio, wired it (including runs...
He's saying that if you have a stainless steel plate between the manifold / elbow, it doesn't matter which gaskets (either 2-hole or 4-hole) are used, as long as there is a gasket above and below the stainless steel plate.
Agree - brush or roll application should work fine too. The HHR (spray) grade has a different solvent or larger quantity of the same solvent than the regular "red can" Weldwood that evaporates MUCH quicker. Spraying the adhesive, it's ready for putting the two sides together in around 1...
I used spray grade DAP Weldwood HHR contact cement for installing the carpet in my boat. With it being a contact cement, you only get one shot at alignment, but it dries/applies quick and once stuck, there's no chance of it sagging or moving.
Go ahead and pull the drive, engine, and transom assembly so you can assess the engine mounts and transom. If you're doing one stringer, you might as well do them all. You can do this!
Yeah, I've been using Dura-Gold brand wet sanding discs from Amazon. I've never been a body guy, so maybe I'm not keeping the paper wet enough and I'm getting a booger drag over my work area (approx 2x2 ft at a time)? Or maybe the quality of the sand paper I'm using is too poor? I'm using a...
I did burn through in one spot, ugh. And going from 500 to 1000 to compound wasn't enough steps to remove the orbital sanding marks. Yesterday I did the entire port side in 1000, 1200, and 1500, and it's still not perfect. I think with a close look you're going to see the occasional orbital...
Updated the bow stop on my trailer to a roller.
Then I started wet sanding the port side of the hull with 500 grit. The "EVENTUS" ghost is gone, and I'm working my way towards the bow to remove the pinstripe ghost.
Could be the anti-siphon valve on the fuel tank or a clogged fuel tank vent. After running it on muffs and having it stall, remove the gas cap. Is there a whoosh of air? Leave the gas cap off and start the engine back up. Will it run without stalling with the gas cap removed?
