To figure out what is happening is same for gas motor, need to do a compression test. While it might be the exhaust, but I would think more a head gasket. At any rate doing a compression test will verify.
Injectors will need to be pulled
Me neither and have not accomplished flow dynamics to prove, just all are that way. Water comes in and the circulating pump is rotating CW from the front of the motor, so my pea brain believes this helps it move to the port side
12V is always present on one lead of the TKS module
The module is turned ON by a ground being applied to the other TKS lead
If there is no ground (motor cold, key not on) you should read 12V on both leads. Once motor starts the oil pressure switch grounds one lead of the TKS
The Temp switch...
Being able to keep your hand on it a few seconds then your most likely ok. Just a few degrees changes things from ok to burn. Get a IR temp gun and watch the temp.
Problem with removing the thermostat is the block can get air pockets which can cause real problems. With the thermostat...
All motors exhaust runs a bit hotter, but in the water you should always be able to keep your hand on it for a while. It higher rpms they even out.
Your saying its hot enough to burn skin?
Put meter on high ohm scale. Touch probe to case and lead (must be disconnected). Meter will start low and slowly increase to infinity. This is called a all or nothing test. Your just finding out if its shorted or opened.
Hope its not the ECM but starting to sound like it. If it is at least there are folks that can repair
The ECM applies a ground to pin 86 from J1-23. Put a meter on pin 86, there should be 12V when key is turned ON then it goes to 0V and back to 12V as the ECM switched. Check continuity of...
Said Indmar so this is like in a Malibu or similar. In this link they list the upgrade cooling. Does yours now have the upgrade as shown?
https://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/50146-indmar-monsoon-2012-cooling-system-upgrade/
Does list approximate so unsure if 1.25mm is enough to cause an issue. Before replacing I would determine which lead has 12V full time, then connect a voltmeter to the other side. Start the motor and it should go from 12V to 0V when the oil pressure switch closes.
Run the motor long enough to...
Not so much there, but those areas can cause issues. The back side of the exhaust goes down to the drive in a Y pipe. Where the left and right side join together before it exits can get clogged if things drop down inside it
In short, for a points distributor there are not enough wires on the + side of the coil, and to many on the - side.
The + side should have at least 2 wires. One for full 12V and one for power thru the resistor.
The - side would have no more then two wires. One for the Dizzy and one for the...
