how about some more details as to what you want to analyse ...on what type of engine modern oldy ... ignition, timing , capacitors, coils modern ECU like EMM,s on ETECS etc...
making your own may be audacious .
time to buy the book to understand and service your engine there are no "primary" coils under the FW ... just 2 magnets built in the FW that spin around the 2 coils .
https://watercraftmanuals.com/outboard/johnson/manuals/johnson-302231.htm
compression has nothing to do with sparks especially if plugs are just simply grounded to the frame and not themselves subjected to extra PSI's
crankcase is just a cavity to allow movement of internal parts. ..
remove the plugs stick a screw driver in the boots and confirm...
I doubt they would give you much. most don't pay current fair market value they simply depreciate the purchase price value down to 0$ after 27 years. !
no harm in trying...
That page is just a sample..... your model may not be so equipted in any event just disconnect the wire if you have one and that will at least let you check for sparks with no interference . the points (for testing purposes) should have 2 wires one to the condenser one to the coil...
silly question but type of plug wire did you use.... solid strand metallic 7mm or carbon fiber wires for cars ??
to service these oldies the johson manual provides all u need for $20
Good for Johnson and cousins Evinrudes...
check basics .. the plug boot to engine frame electrically goes to ground via the secondary coil winding...
measure & confirm the HV secondary ohms (4-8KOhms) with good SOLID connections and confirm that continuity is not lost at anytime. if you loose continuity while doing whatever...
A red B+ off the solenoid is fused then goes to plugs for accessories , front key B+ post, etc... and may go to trim switches in some case. the full amp wires feeding the trim motor blue-green is tapped off the solenoid and NOT FUSED... relays are directly fed full amperage and...
try to rinse away any oils ...
clear liquid Crazy glue could seep into the carck and seal it... won't solidify it much but it may seal it good.
btw if you want to harden crazy glue instantly just spray it with a small bottle mix of rubbing alchool with some diluted baking soda...
diagram aside...
the usual wiring is a fused 12v off the B+ to the solenoid where the battery B+ connects.
it gets +sent to te key switch B+ post and at key ON B+ leaves the switch on purple to the ignition and accessories. ...incl power to VRO etc...
first thing to do is remove all...
But I am getting no warning buzzer when I ground either temp sensor. I am getting voltage to the tan wire at both temp sensors and to the VRO circuit.
reading back.... I would say your buzzer is defective because it's looped battery supply on th TAN wire was measured at the VRO and heat...