PS take a pic of the bolt hole for the bolt that's too close to the flywheel, does it look like that area was repaired? Busted off bolt, retapped hole?
We had that issue with an Olds 5.7 many years ago, never had that problem with the boat though, I have changed starters several times and all worked fine with no shim.
I agree the closeness of the bolt to the flywheel does not look right to me. I wonder if it is possible that the area was...
I have found the Holley carb I tried on my engine far more prone to rich running than the Quadrajet that came on my engine, I tried a brand new 4160 on mine and had no end of rich running troubles, gave the Quadrajet a good cleaning and rebuild and it's been fine.
yep was able to see that, might work if the jaws aren't too sharp, don't want to cut hose by mistake!
here's what you should use instead.
https://www.amazon.com/SEACHOICE-45411-Emergency-Wood-Plugs/dp/B005NI2WSW
I bet you can source locally in Sweden
That’s normal; that’s why there is a bracket to hold it more or less still. I’d do this, get some large wood plugs from a marine store, when you disconnect the long hose that goes from the transom mount to the impeller housing hold it up in the bilge & plug it. That hose is below the static...
Agreed If you have the patience to pull off all the OMC stuff & sell it off & then pick up a Merc B-3 package or Volvo SX-DP package OK but paying $2500 for a hull that could also need rot repair? No way.
make sure you use the correct length bolts, a lot of these aftermarket starters use slightly different size housings and if the bolts bottom out in the block, the starter will twist under torque and break the bolts, putting you in a world of hurt!
This is an ARCO PMGR starter that I replaced...
Well that oil should be good enough to protect the engine, but I guess the combination of the sodium from salt water and fuel dilution of the oil is what's showing in the oil analysis.
I'd do the clear hose test with the boat in the water next.
Wow so your problem was actually excess oil causing the crankshaft to run in the oil kicking up a froth that lowered the oil pressure. Easy solution, do your own oil changes!
There is a quirk to checking oil on some of these engines that I've observed over time....it is due to the use of the oil...
Sounds good
this is a funny problem because you have a fuse not blown, has continuity, but not enough amps flow to make things work.
one year it was the ignition circuit
this year is was the accessory 12V plug
it is 35 years old though!
A '96 should be a Vortec engine with an electric fuel pump.
Holley 2 or 4bbl carb?
When you went through the carb did you replace the needle valve and check the float height?
Also, sometimes rich running is due to clogged air bleeds, make sure to blow them all out.
Lastly, are the idle...
I’ve had this happen a few times with the old fuse box under the dash of my ‘88 Four Winns; something will quit working & I remove the old glass style fuse clean off the terminals & it works again. Should I use dielectric grease, conductive grease or NoAlox to prevent the oxidation?
Eventually...