Any tester will work on cylinders 1-5. I was able to unscrew the rubber tip and install a brass elbow, and then the rubber tip, to get #6.
Alternatively, remove the four bolts holding the lower cowl to the cowling support and push the lower cowling down.
Possibly a pressure gauge can show high pressure in the cooling water system, from a compression leak. Aluminum in salt water tends to develop ruts and pinholes, over its entire surface. Maybe the original issue has returned in another part of the head?
I have never heard of soldering an...
Carbs should be set to 1-1/2 turn open, and adjusted in the water, from there. Do not exceed the max spark advance of 21*BTDC.
After you get her to run, if she still doesn't run well, check the spark plugs for their color. Brown/black are good, but clean is not good. A clean spark plug...
I do not have V-P experience, but 2 wire PTT motors get +12VDC on the blue wire and ground on the green wire, to trim up. 2 wire PTT motors get ground on the blue wire and +12VDC on the green wire to trim down.
Two PTT relays provide for the switching of polarity on the motor.
What year is the Yamaha? Some Yamaha's had a tendency for the heads to rot out and leak compression into the cooling system, and vice versa.
Did you replace the thermostat? Can you run at 5000RPM for short periods, or is 4100RPM the max you can get?
A water pressure gauge may help diagnose...
To amplify Racer's point, my '59 Fat Fifty had points/magneto ignition and ran on a 24::1 mixture. In those days, we also ran last year's fuel in the spring, without any stabilizer (not invented) and I am sure the ratio was much lower due to evaporation of the gasoline all winter. It made more...
Sure, Idle RPM should be 600-650 in gear, and 800-900 in neutral.
Those motors sacrifice idle quality for quick smooth acceleration, so find an idle RPM you can live with as long as she accelerates smooth. You cannot have both, due to the design of the carbs.
Fresh 50::1 fuel helps idle...
After you get the distributor timed, check the timing pointer for accuracy. After that is done, check/set the idle pickup and max spark advance timing events.
The idle pickup timing on those distributor models is set by rotating the brass-colored collar on the distributor, to open the carbs...
First of all, welcome to the new boat. They seem to know it is the first trip, and do their best to cause trouble.
Usually a solid alarm is overheat. Did you rebuild the waterpump before use? You might inspect/replace the thermostats as well.
A '95 90HP 'rude should be a 90* or 60* V4, 2...
Water pressure gauge for OBs, especially the inline Mercs which do not have thermostats.
If you watch the pressure gauge, you will know when the impeller is wearing out, by the pressure at a certain RPM. My Johnnyrude will peg the 30PSI gauge at high RPM, when the impeller is new. After a few...
The distributor cap usually has cylinder numbers molded into it, so you can put the spark plug wires on correctly. The distributor cap has to fit on a raised area of the distributor body, so it is on correctly. You can put it on wrong, but it won't completely mate to the metal distributor...
That looks identical to the one that came with my '88 SeaRay/MerCruiser. If you get on a parts site like crowleymarine or marineengine and look for accessories for Mercruiser for 1988, you should see one.
Just so you know. When they lay up the hull at the factory, if they do it right, it is real strong for the amount of material used. The factory layup of glass uses very large and long single pieces, which provide the strength.
Repairs, IMO, need to be much stronger, since the pieces of cloth...
That motor may have plastic carbs. If so, check the bowls for warping, and replace them if you find it. It will be obvious when you put a straight edge on the bowl mating surface.
Quicksilver makes a Special Lube 101 just for that purpose. It has the consistency of toothpaste. I happen to have some, so I use it. I clean the steering rod in the fall and lube it up.
However, any grease will work, if you do it often enough.
Sourcing resin and glass from Amazon can save you 1/2.
Clamping the new transom into place, to bond with the hull, while the resin sets is probably the most critical item.
I would first fix that from the inside for strength and then the outside, for cometic purposes.
See if the hull will flex enough to close the gap in the interior structure. If so, you will want to glass up the interior, push the hull into place and brace it, until repairs are complete, and...
